Did I Kill My Cyclone Motor?

[Jeffrey Schronce]

not wanting to make an issue of it
but at one point you said:
"Previously there was a 8" to (3) 4" fitting with one 4" running off of it (old set up for HF unit I had)."
but then you said
"Before I typically had (2) 4" openings open (seperate lines)"

so was it necked down to one 4" line before and is now a 6" line or
was it two 4" lines before, now one 6" line?


And then you said
"Note : Gates were open so it was not a restriction overheating thing."
and later said
"Only one gate was open"

So was one gate open or multiple gates open?

I guess I'm confused since some statements lead me to believe it was really wide open and others make me think it was not much different than what you ran successfully before.
If you previously ran 8" necked to one 4" with one gate normal usage
and this time ran 6" all the way with all gates (2? 3? 4 gates?) open
then you would be running significantly more current than before.

My ultimate point: Some motor/impellor combinations are sized such that running with no or very low restrictions can burn up the motor although normal ducting/filter and one-gate open will allow it to run safely. If this is the case (and you can check with the amp meter and your lowest restriction condition) then you must be careful to to expose the motor to this for long periods of time.

Sorry for the confusion. I had 8" to (3)" 4" splitter thing that connected to the main input. One was closed off. The other was fitted into my old 4" lines. I also had a second one that came off that ran to my dual drum sander that was typically open.
Only one gate was open and that was the main 6" gate. I have a second gate for connection to BS and drum sander. It was not connected yet, so the gate was closed.

So, don't you think my confession last night of not having the barrel lid on was the culprit?

[Thom2]

So, don't you think my confession last night of not having the barrel lid on was the culprit?

yup ... that'll do it

[LCHIEN]

Sorry for the confusion. I had 8" to (3)" 4" splitter thing that connected to the main input. One was closed off. The other was fitted into my old 4" lines. I also had a second one that came off that ran to my dual drum sander that was typically open.
Only one gate was open and that was the main 6" gate. I have a second gate for connection to BS and drum sander. It was not connected yet, so the gate was closed.

So, don't you think my confession last night of not having the barrel lid on was the culprit?

yes, I didn't see your 'fession before I posted that one I guess. I was just trying to understand how things changed.

Having a large opening into the intake that's normally closed off would significantly reduce the restriction.
That would do it.

I think an ammeter is worth having anyway... If nothing else higher amp readings would indicate a relatively higher flow rate, when you did change things around.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

yes, I didn't see your 'fession before I posted that one I guess. I was just trying to understand how things changed.

Having a large opening into the intake that's normally closed off would significantly reduce the restriction.
That would do it.

I think an ammeter is worth having anyway... If nothing else higher amp readings would indicate a relatively higher flow rate, when you did change things around.

Can you make a specific recommendation on what I need to get to check amp pull or whatever. I know very little about these things. Like a link to Radio Shack, HD, Lowes, Sears, etc. Thank you.
I appreciate it.

[ragswl4]

I would make sure that the power switch is not faulty before I bought a new motor and certainly before I installed a new motor. Not saying that was the problem but in some cases, if an overcurrent occured, it can fry or partially fry the power switch. All the current goes through that switch.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I would make sure that the power switch is not faulty before I bought a new motor and certainly before I installed a new motor. Not saying that was the problem but in some cases, if an overcurrent occured, it can fry or partially fry the power switch. All the current goes through that switch.

Would that make the motor sound like ****?

[LCHIEN]

Can you make a specific recommendation on what I need to get to check amp pull or whatever. I know very little about these things. Like a link to Radio Shack, HD, Lowes, Sears, etc. Thank you.
I appreciate it.

Meter Basics:
There's this kind

The one above measure volts, amps, ohms. Volts and amps with the probes to the terminals, Amps you have to literally wire the meter in series with the circuit. Probably somewhat more accurate, more ranges, etc.


and this kind:

This has probes to measure volts and ohms. To measure AC current, you push the orange button and the loop jaws open, you put the jaws around a single wire of the power cord (which means you have to cut the cord apart or open the motor junction box to get to the individual wires). I personally have a short, heavy gauge extension cord with the three wires separated so I can use the clamp on amp meter like this. I think it'll be easier to use one with a clamp.

HF $15 (This one has the clamp-around loop which means you must isolate one wire to the motor to put thru the loop):
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42397

HF $40 - no clamp
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37772

Home depot clamp around:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100047661

Lowes clamp type:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...600&lpage=none

Sears clamp type - $30 - looks like a good bet:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...cemldffidfko.0

[Tom Slick]

a kill a watt might be a better option for the electronically challenged.
here is a $26 model from amazon
http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elect.../dp/B000JLOKXI

edit: I just noticed that it only measures up to 15 watts.

I recommend a clamp on meter but you will have separate out the hot wire from the neutral to get a reading.

[tedkitch]

This isn't the safest of solutions, but it is something that my grandfather used to use all of the time. He had an extension cord that he cut the insulation off of (at three different points) and soldered alligator clamps to the bare wire. He would then attach his multimeter to the clamps so that he could get readings while the circuit was live and under load.

It worked very well, but as stated it wasn't the safest of things if you didn't know what you were doing. I remember once when he grounded himself out while hooking it up. I never saw a 68 year old jump that high!

There are ways that it could be made safe, just depends on what you are willing to do. Best thing is that it is cheap.

Play it safe though if you don't know what you should and shouldn't do with electricity.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

a kill a watt might be a better option for the electronically challenged.
here is a $26 model from amazon
http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elect.../dp/B000JLOKXI

edit: I just noticed that it only measures up to 15 watts.

I recommend a clamp on meter but you will have separate out the hot wire from the neutral to get a reading.

Neutral? This thing dont got no stinkin neutral. I know that much. I think.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

[quote=tedkitch;271056]Best thing is that it is cheap.
[quote]

Not too cheap in this application. I would need to build an extension cord with L6-20 P & R. I wouldn't even know where to get a L6-20R that goes on a cord. Guess you could use regular receptical in a box.

[LCHIEN]

This isn't the safest of solutions, but it is something that my grandfather used to use all of the time. He had an extension cord that he cut the insulation off of (at three different points) and soldered alligator clamps to the bare wire. He would then attach his multimeter to the clamps so that he could get readings while the circuit was live and under load.

It worked very well, but as stated it wasn't the safest of things if you didn't know what you were doing. I remember once when he grounded himself out while hooking it up. I never saw a 68 year old jump that high!

There are ways that it could be made safe, just depends on what you are willing to do. Best thing is that it is cheap.

Play it safe though if you don't know what you should and shouldn't do with electricity.

We electrical engineers (e.g. skilled in the trade) call that a suicide cord. 'nuff said.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

and this kind:

This has probes to measure volts and ohms. To measure AC current, you push the orange button and the loop jaws open, you put the jaws around a single wire of the power cord (which means you have to cut the cord apart or open the motor junction box to get to the individual wires). I personally have a short, heavy gauge extension cord with the three wires separated so I can use the clamp on amp meter like this. I think it'll be easier to use one with a clamp.

Could you test at the box on the motor where the cord is connected?

[LCHIEN]

yes. but here's one better for you, mr amazon deal finder..

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Electrical+Shop&pid=03482372000&ver tical=TOOL&subcat=Multi-Meters%2C+Testers+%26+Accessories&BV_SessionID=@@@ @1167672735.1179696154@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccgfaddkmgm mkjdcefecemldffidfko.0

its a clamp-on meter plus it has a special AC plug/splitter for normal appliances - the individual wires are broken out thru the legs of the splitter so you can measure them wit the clamp loop.

All you have to do is find a sale/coupons that get it down to $15 or so...

The Kill-a-watt someone mentioned is good but limited to the normal 110 plug and no more than 15 Amps.

[hermit]

Jeff, I know you've figured out your problem, but I just wanted to say I feel your pain, and you have my sympathy. I went through something similar this past winter. No fun.

Todd