I can't believe I drilled holes in my beloved bandsaw table

[cgallery]

I can't believe that I drilled two 5/16" holes in the table of my Inca bandsaw to accomodate a single-point resawing fence.

Sure, there were a million other options for attaching a fence like this (including just clamping it). But, none of them offered this level of simplicity or precise adjustment.

I've just never done anything like this to a tool before. Sure, wear and tear is unavoidable. But mods I've made to machines in the past have always been completely reversible. And to make matters worse, this little 9" bandsaw has a resale value of over $750 on eBay, believe it or not. Or at least it did, until I drilled holes in it.

I wish I could have two bandsaws and dedicate one of them to resawing (like David Marks). This is the next best thing, though. With a single-point fence I can resaw with whatever blade happens to be installed on the saw w/o having to worry about compensating for drift.

[crokett]

Hmmm.... that's a neat trick. If I ever get my bandsaw tuned up I will have to remember that.

[final_t]

I've seen this done but not into the table, but as a whole add-on to the top of the table (Rockler sells a kit for one; Loring has done a nice one IIRC) with the point built into or slipped into a slot.

That being said, two questions:

First, why on the outside of the blade? I don't think I've ever seen it done on that side, but I can see doing it so in order to make it easier to get on/off.

Second, why not a more "involved" device that sits in the miter slot? You can get or make "expanding" holders for the miter slot, and make a setup that uses that.

[scmhogg]

The first one is always the hardest. I seriously doubt that the two holes you drilled will effect the resale value of your saw.

Initially, I was afraid to drill holes in my tools. Once I got over it, I have put several holes in a number of different tools. If they are metal, I drill and tap them, if wood, I use t-nuts or threaded inserts. I mount toggle clamps, mini fences and starter pins.

Steve

[cgallery]

I've seen this done but not into the table, but as a whole add-on to the top of the table (Rockler sells a kit for one; Loring has done a nice one IIRC) with the point built into or slipped into a slot.

That being said, two questions:

First, why on the outside of the blade? I don't think I've ever seen it done on that side, but I can see doing it so in order to make it easier to get on/off.

Second, why not a more "involved" device that sits in the miter slot? You can get or make "expanding" holders for the miter slot, and make a setup that uses that.

(1) I woulda built an accessory table "topper," but my max resaw is only 5.5" now. I'd hate to lose any height.

(2) On the outside of the blade: If you look at my saw, you'll note that it is "backwards" when compared to other bandsaws. The pilar is on the right (facing the front of the saw) rather than the left. I'm left-handed. I've found that it is much easier for me to control the stock when using my right hand to push the stock against the fence, and my left hand to feed the stock. So this feels better to me. And you're right, it is easier to install/remove.

(3) Finally, on the more "involved" device, I gave it a lot of thought and decided I didn't want to get complicated. Just wanted to keep it simple. I coulda modified the existing fence. But this is rock solid and extremely precise.

I've already cut some 3" white oak into 1/16" slices (I'll never actually do that in real life) and this works perfectly. A hole-drilling compromise, certainly, but one I was willing to make.

[cgallery]

The first one is always the hardest. I seriously doubt that the two holes you drilled will effect the resale value of your saw.

Initially, I was afraid to drill holes in my tools. Once I got over it, I have put several holes in a number of different tools. If they are metal, I drill and tap them, if wood, I use t-nuts or threaded inserts. I mount toggle clamps, mini fences and starter pins.

Steve

I agree w/ the resale comment. Plus I don't plan on selling it. Even if I get a big shop w/ a big saw some day, I'm likely to keep this one around as a pocket saw (it IS tiny).

This mod worked out great. But I usually find a way to mod w/o permanent consequences. The more I think of it, though, the more I think all bandsaws should come with these two holes.

[ChrisD]

Welcome to the club of Tool-Piercing Converts! We have jackets.

A couple of months ago I took that leap of faith with my bandsaw. I cut a 4" hole on the door for a dust port. Yeah, it hurt, but it was for our own good!

Nice job, by the way!

[LCHIEN]

Dang, Phil, it's a left handed bandsaw, never saw one before.

And, never mind the two holes you drilled, who put the square holes in the bottom of the miter slot?

[cgallery]

Dang, Phil, it's a left handed bandsaw, never saw one before.

And, never mind the two holes you drilled, who put the square holes in the bottom of the miter slot?

I think all the Inca's I've seen are left-handed. Have to be careful when installing blades for the first time, to make sure I flip 'em inside out to keep the teeth running in the right direction. I sure wonder why they did it that way.

The holes in the miter slots are original to the casting. The miter slot is a "dovetail keyway" (I think that is what they call it). Prevents the miter bar from accidentally lifting out (like the more common t-slot). I don't know why the holes are there, though.

[Stytooner]

There is something to be said about keeping the saw strictly stock, but that is mainly for collectors items or things that may become so.
I have no problem at all modifying OEM equipment. For one thing, it's sometimes necessary when you upgrade something to a better performing part. Better motors sometimes require holes drilled, especially when OEM motors are scarce or overpriced.

I drilled one hole in my SMT and increased the crosscut width to nearly 24". Sometimes designers and engineers can't plan for every intended use and mods make things much easier or more precise. Ball screws replacing Acme screws on mill tables and the like. These mods actually increase the resale value and if your little resaw jig went along with it on the saw, it may also increase the value of the saw rather than decrease it. It is now more versatile and functional.

The holes in the dovetailed track may be to evacuate saw dust every time you pull the miter gauge back. Dove tails would want to clog more in the corners than standard track would.

[cgallery]

There is something to be said about keeping the saw strictly stock, but that is mainly for collectors items or things that may become so.

Well, Inca tools are highly collected. I could buy a brand-new, high-end 14" bandsaw for less than what this one would sell for on eBay. Or a used 18". But I don't intend to do that. This saw has meet its last collector.

And honestly, the shock has worn off as I've used the resawing fence last night and this morning. I've been resawing some 1" stock down to 1/4" to make some trays for small boxes. It works superbly. Clamped fences are a PITA and have a tendency to move. The t-bolts really make this one stay put.

[SARGE..g-47]

Could you have drilled a hole in the standard fence and attached the "point" to it with a counter-sunk bolt on the point side and a quick turn knob on the other?

I use a "point" fence also and a metal one comes this way on my SC BS and the Jets. Works great as the polished metal "point" has a flat spot on the back that allows it to sit flat on the standard stock fence when in use.

I wouldn't worry about the holes as I have rarely seen any machine I wouldn't make some type of modification to improve it's efficiency. I had a MM 16 BS on order and purchased a Y connector to add the 2nd hole in the rear corner as I have never seen a BS that will get most saw-dust on re-saw with just one hole for DC under the table. Was going to do it on my SC, even though the SC guys said it wouldn't be necessary. I didn't have faith in that.. but they were correct. A first on any BS I have seen.

I don't personally see these kind of modifications as alterations that will "scar" the value. I see them as alterations that should have already been there and improve the value as it will save anyone purchasing your machine (if you did sale it) time doing it themselves. :>)

Regards...

[hermit]

I too suffer from the fear of altering/damaging original equipment, but have done it. The one thing I'd like to comment on, and I've read this as well as experienced it first hand, is that a regular fence with a well tuned bandsaw is all thats necessary for accurate resawing. I had a heck of a time with my old Jet 12" before I realized that the blade tension piece was cracked and was throwing my tracking off. Then I got some 1/2" Olson 3TPI skip tooth blades, and I thought I had the resawing licked. i.e. I thought you had to try and follow a line or compensate for drift.

Then one day I wandered into a Woodcraft and ended up buying a Timberwolf 1/4" 4tpi blade. The guy said thats all I need. Guess what? Perfectly straight resawing with a homemade fence! Since then I've moved up to the Craftsman 14" with 8" resaw capacity. I immediately called Suffolk to order blades. Interestingly, even though the saw can accomodate a 3/4" blade, he told me 1/2" is all I need for resawing for that size saw.

My point?......Most guys probably don't need the size blade you think you do, and if you have a good blade, resawing is easy with a parallel fence. I've done 1/16" myself and it is a good feeling!

just my 2 cents,
Todd

[cgallery]

I too suffer from the fear of altering/damaging original equipment, but have done it. The one thing I'd like to comment on, and I've read this as well as experienced it first hand, is that a regular fence with a well tuned bandsaw is all thats necessary for accurate resawing.

Todd

I agree. But having tried both methods, a SP fence is better for my style of work. I don't want to take time to switch blades and check for perfect alignment each time I want to resaw. I know I would get better results (only slightly) if I did, but the wood still needs to go through the planer anyhow.

[Russianwolf]

(2) On the outside of the blade: If you look at my saw, you'll note that it is "backwards" when compared to other bandsaws. The pilar is on the right (facing the front of the saw) rather than the left. I'm left-handed. I've found that it is much easier for me to control the stock when using my right hand to push the stock against the fence, and my left hand to feed the stock. So this feels better to me. And you're right, it is easier to install/remove.

While I see your reasoning, the pivot point is usually on the arm side of the saw (wether right or left handed) so that it doesn't restrict the size of stock you can resaw. What if you get a 12 inch wide piece of 16/4 stock?