Radial Arm Saw, Do I need one?

[ryan.s]

How beneficial is a RAS? For some reason I really want one but I keep telling myself I would be wasting shop space and money. It seems like the market for RAS has narrowed, don't see too many of these for sale anymore, at least not any new ones. I have a TS, BS and CMS and can't really see any type of cuts that would specifically require a RAS. I really want to get a feel from people who own a RAS if it makes life much easier for certain cuts or it just collects dust in the corner of the shop. Thanks in advance.

[drumpriest]

Well, I had one in my old shop (was my father in laws), not I use a SCMS from Makita. The only real advantages of the RAS is that they can usually cut pretty wide stock, bigger than the 12" of my SCMS, and that they cut often mount a dado. For cutting dado channels in projects like floor to ceiling bookcases, they are nice, though you can do that with a router and a guide.

I havn't really missed mine, but it depends upon how you work, I'm sure. In woodworking there are usually 50 ways to skin the same cat.

[Popeye]

I had my eyes set on a big expensive SCMS... and then I came across an older Craftsman RAS. In my case I saved myself about $450-500.
I use it all the time. It's my main cut off saw. Nothing does dado's better in stock <12" wide.
Dust collection with a hood ( I made my own) is a 100% better than with my MS.
The DO require a proper blade, it's an absolute necessity to have a good negative hook blade on the saw. A positive hook blade want's to climb the stock and that means it wants to pull itself toward you.... fast.
I'd never use the thing for ripping. Mine is strickly a cutoff/dado saw. I wouldn't trade it anymore than I'd get rid of my TS.
All that said.... I don't think I'd buy a new one either. There are enough good used ones out there for a fraction of the price of new. Kind of rambling, haven't had my coffee yet. Pat

[LCHIEN]

RAS seem to have fallen out of favor somewhat.
A TS and CMS would seem to do 95% of the RAS work so in your case it might be redundant.
However some people like them for the dados (can see what you are doing) and for wide crosscuts.
They also have the advantage that they sit back flush against the wall.

good luck.

[jhart]

I have had an older Craftsman for years, well before I bought the Bt3100. They can do an awful lot of different cuts. Have since purchased a MS and the 3100 and a couple of routers. If I were looking at buying a new one today, I don't think I would spend the money with having the other tools.
However, If you can find a used one for a reasonable price, ($100-150), I would probably buy it. There is nothing better than the RAS for cutting long pieces of wide lumber, doing some of the compound miter cuts, and good Dados on a accurately set up RAS.
That said, if it is not set up correctly, you will be horribly disappointed with it (Guess that's true of most tools).
I use it mostly for quick cross cuts these days as you don't have to raise/lower the blade or adjust the fence. Just put the board on the table, line up the mark and cut.

[Ken Weaver]

I've got one in the works - yet to be delivered - Craftsman model 22010. It was just too much of a deal to pass up if it all comes through. I thought long and hard about it, but the price that I was given was too good. I have no idea where in the shop I will put it. That will have to be figured out if the deal goes through. My thought was for cross-cuts that won't fit the CMS and for dado setups.

[Turaj]

I have had mine for several years now (came to me for free) and I like it (did not return it for $100 recall). As others said it great for cross cut and also dado work (I don't have MS). One problem with mine is adjusting for different angles so I try not to change that too often. Instead I have a few jigs such as one for picture frames (45 degree) that does the job.

[Wood_workur]

as for keeping the arm straight, I saw in a book where a guy had wires tensioned to keep the arm at exactly 90*.

Then you can get those wooden angles for woodworker's supply, to cut angles.

[steve-u]

I am not so much a woodworker but a home improvement guy. I bought a Craftsman RAS about 25 years ago to finish off the basement in my first house. It worker great for that - crosscutting lumber and some ripping. It then sat unused for about 23 years. I have since bought the BT3100 and a Hitachi 12 inch miter saw and was going to sell the RAS but just can't bring myself to do it since it is in great condition and would probably only bring $125 - $150. It is just so darn easy to crosscut on it and line up the cut to the cut in the fence plus shaving another 1/16 off is a breeze. I recently put a pergo floor in my son's room anf the RAS was the saw of choice to crosscut the planks though it destroyed the blade but I used a cheap $12.00 60 tooth Tool Shop blade from Menards. I need to get the RAS and BT3100 level with each other so I can use each as support for the other which should work out pretty well. If I did not have one I would not go out and spend $600+ for a new one but a nice used one would be something to consider. --- Steve

[Knottscott]

I hope I don't need one...otherwise I've been doing it wrong all these years! The question that only you can answer is whether or not you want one.

[25]

Some books I have seen highly regarded in setup and usage for an RAS. I recently inherited a Delta Rockwell Delux 105. I do plan on setting it up and using it but mainly only for crosscuts and some DADOs.

Radial Armsaw setup bible:
http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes...ageID=&CatID=1

Radial arm saw usage:
www.mrsawdust.com

[JimD]

I have an old Ryobi R-200 which I use fairly regularly. I like a CMS better for accuracy but only have a 10 inch so it is limited to about 5 1/4 inch cross cuts. My radial arm saw is not easy to cut with as accurately as my CMS. When I have to make a 12 inch cross cut, I use the CMS but try to get a feel on the first cut which side to bias the arm to get the most accurate cut. Other RASs may not have as much flex as mine but I have seen the same comment from others. I think SCMSs are also less prone to wandering but there is some play in them too. If I was starting from scratch I would probably buy a SCMS because my impression is they are more easily accurate. I have not used one so I am not totally sure if that is true. About the only useful thing a RAS will do that a SCMS will not is dados. I have used that feature but not very often.

My next major tool purchase will probably be a Delta 12 inch CMS that has 9 1/4 inch cross cut capacity. I think that will be enough for many applications and as accurate as my little 10 inch saw. When I get it, I am planning to semi-retire the 10 inch CMS, not the radial arm. It is pretty much my first choice for a quick cross-cut. It's the high accuracy cross cut that I think twice about.

Jim

[os1kne]

My dad has had a RAS for about 20 years that I have used quite a bit. I have a 12" CMS and have never regretted not having a RAS. For dadoes, the RAS would come in handy. I would never go out to HD or Sears and spend the $500-600+ on a RAS, but with good, old RAS's available for $150 or less I have been tempted - just don't have the space.

[scorrpio]

I have a 10" Craftsman RAS that I bought on ebay for $120, local pickup. A call to recall center netted me a brand new table and blade guard. I disassembled, cleaned, regreased it, and took time to properly tune it. Works beautifully and is dead on accurate. The only reason I'd use a CMS over a RAS is portability - can't take a RAS out of the shop. But in the shop, I have no use for a CMS. I like RAS for dadoes too - swapping to a dado blade on a RAS is faster than on a TS.

[Ken Weaver]

The only reason I'd use a CMS over a RAS is portability - can't take a RAS out of the shop.

Which can be an advantage for the RAS - I lost my CMS to my son's house restoration project for 2 months!