Craftsman Circular Saw

[Roger on the Rock]

Hey Everyone;

My Dad recently gave me some of his old tools. He wasn't a woodworker by any means, but one of the items was this Craftsman 315.218250. It's about 17 years old and a hefty big beast, but hasn't been used much. Compared to the unit's I've seen at HD & Kent, it's a tank.

As a starting out woodworker I was going to get a good CS for sheet stock before it goes on my soon to be mine, BT 3100. I'm wondering if this saw with a good blade would be OK for what I'm intending to use it for. I've heard that Craftsman stuff is good, depending on the vintage, and would appreciate any opinions/experience I can get here. (Before I go out and spend money on a blade and ruin my first sheet of stock, just to find out this model was/is a lemon.)

Thanks in advance.

[LCHIEN]

Well, don't really know much about that saw, but 7-1/4" blades are usually real cheap and you're going to need one anyway, so buy a blade and try it on some scrap wood.

It's as good as it works for you.

[WayneJ]

If it runs its good for something. I have two old ones that both work. One has a rip blade that is used for pressure treated wood and the other has a masonary blade that I used for cutting concrete block. They both have a life left, when they die, see ya.
Wayne

[cwsmith]

Well, I have a older version that looks similar (someday I'll take the time to figure out how to post a picture on here). My model is 315.11850 and I purchased it in 1971, when my wife and I purchased our first home. It's a 7", but will take the 7-1/4 inch blades just fine. (Note that the "315" signifies that it was made by Ryobi.)

So, this has been my only circular saw for over 35 years. While I only use it for home projects, I've ripped ply and chip board, built a porch, shelving, couple of decks, stairs, benches, and done a bunch of framing and repairs with it. Never a problem and the drive gears show no discernable wear.

Saws back then were mostly pretty hefty with most of them having full metal housings. This was the first model that I had seen with the forward handle and with my thin frame, it was easier to handle and proved to be a great tool. I was given a newer Craftsman about 10 years ago, but hated the safety latch on it and have yet to put it to use (still sits in the original box). I've looked at the new Ridgid and Ryobi offerings, but can't see buying them as I don't use a circular saw all that much as I once did and I'm still very satisfied with the old one.

I hope this helps,

CWS

[just4funsies]

I've got an ald Craftsman CS that just won't die... I've used it for everything (including a HAMMER). When it finally croaks, I'll probably still use it for a doorstop or something.

[mpc]

You can do a few simple checks to see if this saw is an obvious dud or not:

With the saw unplugged and a blade installed:
1. Grab the edge of the blade and try wiggling it perpendicular to the cutting direction - you're testing the arbor bearings for slop. Any motion here will cause a wide, sloppy kerf.

2. Slowly turn the blade forwards and then backwards. You'll "feel" the slop (lash) in the gears as freeplay each time you reverse direction. Ideally there would be zero slop but most saws have a little. If the slop is small (say under half an inch at the blade tips) the gears inside probably are healthy.

3: Just spin the blade, listening to the saw. Worn internal bearings will have a marbles-in-a-can sound. You may feel a "gritty" feeling in the blade as you turn it too if there are bearing issues.

4: Bottom plate: how firmly does it lock into position? Is there much slop at the pivot points? Using an accurate protracter or a plastic drafting triangle (cheap and amazingly accurate) check the 90 and 45 degree marks. See if the long edges of the plate are parallel to the blade too.

Then remove the blade, plug the saw in, double check the bottom plate is tight... while holding the saw in the air turn it on for a couple seconds. Look at the back end of the motor, through the cooling vents, watching for sparks. A few sparks visible is normal. If you see a blue ring of sparks, or if sparks are flying in all directions, there is a motor or brush issue that needs attention.

Many of those older Craftsman tools were quite good; I wouldn't be surprised if that saw was perfectly usable this instant. If it were mine, I'd probably open it up and check the grease (it's probably dried out by now) and the length of the brushes. Both are easily replacable before problems occur. As long as the arbor bearings don't have any slop it should cut decently when equipped with a quality blade.

mpc

[Roger on the Rock]

Thanks much for the info....especially your test procedure, MPC.

1. No sideways motion at all.

2. Slop when reversing direction...less than 1/16".

3. No marbles in the can, however you're probably right about the grease.

4. Bottom plate is tight. I had to adjust the screw for the 90 position, but it's right on now as is the 45.

Blue sparks for the first instant at startup, but then nothing I could see. Looks like a couple of good blades and I'm in business.

Thanks again, everyone, for the advice.

Cheers,

Roger

[mschrank]

You can do a few simple checks to see if this saw is an obvious dud or not:

With the saw unplugged and a blade installed:
1. Grab the edge of the blade and try wiggling it perpendicular to the cutting direction - you're testing the arbor bearings for slop. Any motion here will cause a wide, sloppy kerf.

I have an old Craftsman/Ryobi with this problem. I'm planning on buying a new Porter-Cable 423MAG, but I'd like to keep this old one around for "dirty cutting" (i.e., railroad ties, etc). Is is possible to adjust/replace the arbor bearings?

[Ken Weaver]

Thanks much for the info....especially your test procedure, MPC.

1. No sideways motion at all.

2. Slop when reversing direction...less than 1/16".

3. No marbles in the can, however you're probably right about the grease.

4. Bottom plate is tight. I had to adjust the screw for the 90 position, but it's right on now as is the 45.

Blue sparks for the first instant at startup, but then nothing I could see. Looks like a couple of good blades and I'm in business.

Thanks again, everyone, for the advice.

Cheers,

Roger

I have a similar one a friend gave me - 1969 vintage. It is a tank and undestructable, especially after passing the tests you did.

[Deadhead]

I've got an ald Craftsman CS that just won't die...

Hey, I have that model!

I'm using my dad's old Craftsman that looks close to what is pictured above. Mine might be older. It's definitely a beast though. I've got about 5 different blades for it (including one specifically for plywood) that have recently been sharpened and they cut like butter.

Make yourself a couple of sawboards - they make life much easier when trying to control that beast. And make sure they are wide enough so the motor housing clears whatever clamp you'll use with them. Learned that the hard way.

[Roger on the Rock]

Hey;

I'm not familiar with the type of sawboard you are talking about. (Newbie!!) Do you have any pictures??

Cheers,

Roger

[sacherjj]

A good description of making a saw board can be found on this page.

[nadz]

ahhh- noob's friend

man that sawboard is great!

sometimes it just the simple things that really are the most helpful


i cant wait to make one when i get home!


-nadz

[sacherjj]

It really makes things easier. I remember working on my first bookshelf and calculating distances from saw blade to edge and router bit to edge to figure out where to clamp my straight edge. It mostly went together properly, but it was far too much work.

You can make two lengths for saw use (4' and 8') and a 4' one for a router and given bit is nice to have as well. I use a board with the guide in the center and a cutoff for 3/4" straight bit on one side and 1/2" bit on the other.

[mpc]

I have an old Craftsman/Ryobi with this problem. I'm planning on buying a new Porter-Cable 423MAG, but I'd like to keep this old one around for "dirty cutting" (i.e., railroad ties, etc). Is is possible to adjust/replace the arbor bearings?

Bearings have been standardized for years now so, if you can figure out how to get to them, you probably can replace them. Look for a string of letters+numbers stamped near the outer rim of the bearing; that's the sizing info. Also note if it's a sealed bearing or not (if you see a washer shaped plastic or rubber "cover" between the inner and outer metal bearing races it's a sealed bearing) and go to a good auto parts store, machine shop, or look in the yellow pages for bearing supply centers. NAPA can cross-reference quite a few.

Many bearings are "pressed" onto the inner shafts; these can be a bit of work to remove. Machine shops have special presses to do this job. Getting the old bearing off doesn't require finess - you can mangle the bearing as much as you need/want to. Just don't damage the arbor shaft. Installing the new bearing though takes a little finess. Basically, you must push on ONLY the inner or outer edge - whichever one is tightly gripping - and generally that's the inner race. Tip: take a file, grinder, whatever to the inner race of the old bearing so it now slips over the arbor (or the outer edge of the outer race if that's what's pressed) and use it as an anvil to drive the new bearing into position.

One method that works well if you've got a regular (not a woodworking) vice is to stack the new bearing on top of the anvil bearing on top of the vice... with the vice jaws open enough for the arbor shaft to fit through. Gently hammer the arbor through the new bearing this way.

Many auto machine shops will "press" bearings on and off for a few bucks; my local one charges $6 per operation.

mpc