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I got the inspiration from the above (at the bottom of this page - http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...ontentId=17685)
I was looking for a simple way to improve my miter saw operations.
This is my interpretation with improvements:
(See attached pic)
here's detail of the fixtures on the end - stop and support:
(see attached pic)
Some notes:
I slotted the ends of the miter saw base so I could slip the T-bolts to the side and simply lift it out and install it without having to drop the heavy board/saw through small holes onto the t-bolts.
I made the stops with swing-away stops so I can put two or more on one side and cut several lengths, Actually I have the very small track stops on the right in the top picture so I can exactly reposition the swing-away stops in more than one repeatable position.
I put 3/8" dowel pins sanded to the width of the t-track slot, or, some small strips two inches long to do similar alignment on the center line of the sliding fixtures to make them line up square when the dowels are in the slots and the fixture flat on the table.
I added rollers made of sch 40 PVC pipe. I was trying to figure out how to center them on a small axle to spin easily or get a dowel to match the exact ID of the pipe and I came up with this (see attached pic)
I simply took a small piece of wood and ripped it so it would wedge tightly into the pipe. Cut into 3" pieces and located the center with a center-finder (works on rectangular stuff but you have to do all four corners and drill in the center of the "#" that results) - or use the center finder on the pipe with the wood in it, would have worked, too. This one is a little off and was a reject but you get the idea. I put a 1/4" dowel in it and drilled a just-oversize hole (like 17/64ths or 9/32nds) into the supports so it will spin easily.
I made mine 6' long instead of 8', used a piece of laminated pressboard that was once the side of a daybed that the kids destroyed.
I glued and screwed a piece of 1x4 underneath theT-track so to stiffen it and because the board would be so thin there. I can rest the 1x4 in between sawhorses like you see here or clamp it in my B&D workmate. [P.S. I plan on always supporting this in the middle under the saw, so that the board will be supporting only its weight and the weight of the wood pieces. In the original design, the board needs to be very thick because it is supported on the ends and the weight of the saw will be bowing it making it difficult to line up the supports.]
The saw can slide easily right and left and I can move the supports and stops anywhere needed. Neat, I think- its very stable and pleasure to use without having to conjure up and set roller stands or have the pieces falling all over the place. And I have the luxury of the stops to quickly cut repetitive pieces to exact length. If I want to put it away, it should go nicely into a corner somewhere, standing on end.
Attached Files
Loring in Katy, TX USA
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