What's a really good RAS blade?

[Xamu]

Finally got my Garage sale RAS a place to live (will be posting pics very soon in the projects forum) but I still don't have a blade for it.

Any recommendations for a really good blade?

Along those lines I have another question - Not that I'm necessarily going to do it - but - why is it not a good idea to put a 12" blade on a 10" RAS? (Be prepared to back up your opinions )

[just4funsies]

On my RAS, a 12" blade won't fit inside the blade guard, and I'm not about to use it without one. Also, I assume that you are thinking 12" to cut larger material. Both the free-spinning of the larger blade and the extra thickness of the workpiece could overload the motor. If you've priced a motor for the typical RAS, you probably don't want to go there, plus the fact that the NEW motor would be similarly underrated.

[LCHIEN]

Finally got my Garage sale RAS a place to live (will be posting pics very soon in the projects forum) but I still don't have a blade for it.

Any recommendations for a really good blade?

Along those lines I have another question - Not that I'm necessarily going to do it - but - why is it not a good idea to put a 12" blade on a 10" RAS? (Be prepared to back up your opinions )

That sort of depends if you are using your RAS for crosscut only or are turnig the head 90° and using it for ripping as well.
A good mitersaw blade is also a good RAS crosscut blade. Typically these have 60-80 teeth and a small (less than 5°) or even negative hook angle. This hook angle will counter any tendency of the piece to want to lift off the table. Someone listed int he bargain alerts that Sears was clearancing off a nice Freud 60T miter saw blade for $12, usually they sell for around $50.

I guess if you are ripping as well (not the strong suit of a RAS) you will have to compromise and get a combo blade.

[Xamu]

My reason is partly for larger material but also for slightly additional reach when the angle is adjusted to the left. Cut length is drastically less with a left swing than a right swing.

Okay, fair point about the blade guard. If I ever thought this was even a marginally good idea I would have to fabricate a 12" blade guard.

As for overload, I think I have seen thin kerf blades which may noticably reduce the spinning mass. I don't have the math to support this but I assume that an 8" dado set has more spinning mass than a thin kerf 12" blade.

[just4funsies]

Yes, but that mass is concentrated much closer to the center axis. On a 12" blade, it's way out there. Makes a difference.

[Xamu]

I never would have guessed that. I would have thought that an 8" stacked dado set put more load on the motor. But I already said I didn't have the math to back it up

[LinuxRandal]

Could you post more machine specs? Brand and motor amps? You might check out the Dewalt ras forums, and or the Mr. Sawdust forums. As for the blade, my old Dewalt was sold as a 10", but with an 8" blade, you get around 8% more power at the outside diameter, then the 10". A smaller blade makes it act like a bigger motor.
As for the blade, that can and does, be a point of contention. If you are using the saw, for both cross and rip cuts, then a 60 tooth, tcp, blade is recommended (size variance by amps), with a 5 degree POSITIVE tooth angle.
If you are only using it to crosscut, then I would consider a blade with a - hook angle, like the kind used in scms's.

You might check out those forums for how to build a table, and the faq's for the blade info, as it was designed by someone who mostly used a radial arm saw, in conjunction with Forest blades and it's available, only from them directly.

[vaking]

I believe 12" and 10" blades are designed for different size arbors - fitting a blade with 1"hole on a 5/8" arbor may result in vibration. Also 12" blade is usually designed for smaller rpm than a 10" saw provides. All-in-all, I can see a reason in putting in a blade smaller than originally designed but not bigger.
Too much trouble, unsafe and not enough benefit to justify the effort.
Sorry.

[Xamu]

Could you post more machine specs? Brand and motor amps? You might check out the Dewalt ras forums, and or the Mr. Sawdust forums. As for the blade, my old Dewalt was sold as a 10", but with an 8" blade, you get around 8% more power at the outside diameter, then the 10". A smaller blade makes it act like a bigger motor.
As for the blade, that can and does, be a point of contention. If you are using the saw, for both cross and rip cuts, then a 60 tooth, tcp, blade is recommended (size variance by amps), with a 5 degree POSITIVE tooth angle.
If you are only using it to crosscut, then I would consider a blade with a - hook angle, like the kind used in scms's.

You might check out those forums for how to build a table, and the faq's for the blade info, as it was designed by someone who mostly used a radial arm saw, in conjunction with Forest blades and it's available, only from them directly.

I think I have a handle on building a table

It's an old Craftsman.
Won't be doing rip cuts.
Cross cuts in various woods (hard and soft) and melamine and MDF.
But I will be wanting a good clean cut - none of this raggedy edge business.

[LCHIEN]

I believe 12" and 10" blades are designed for different size arbors - fitting a blade with 1"hole on a 5/8" arbor may result in vibration. Also 12" blade is usually designed for smaller rpm than a 10" saw provides. All-in-all, I can see a reason in putting in a blade smaller than originally designed but not bigger.
Too much trouble, unsafe and not enough benefit to justify the effort.
Sorry.

Actually I believe its a fact that 12" blades are available in both 5/8" and 1" arbor holes, some even have a punch-out so you can use them with one or the other. Seems that some saw manufacturers went one way and some the other. So blade manufacturers have to accomodate both.

[L. D. Jeffries]

Just got my Apl copy of Woodworkers Journal with a good review of RAS's. Had one 10 or 15 yrs ago but got rid of it. WOW have the prices gone sky high. Think I paid something like $400.

[retired wrench]

Loring,,,,,,,I really enjoy reading your posts and replys.......I even feel a little more intelligent after doing so,,,,,,,,,, your a great resource here , for all of us.......thanks.....

[gonesailing]

saw tooth speed

Another thought about a 12 inch blade is that the cutting edge will be moving about 20% faster that with a 10 inch blade. If you do it, make sure the blade will take the extra speed.

Mike L

[scorrpio]

HEADS UP!!!
If this is an old Craftsman RAS, check two things:
1. Model number - it is located on the RAS base to the left of the elevation crank. See if it starts with 113.

2. Blade guard - is it just over the top of the blade, or is there a swinging clear plastic portion?

Ok, if the model number starts with 113, and you have no plastic part, make search for 'Craftsman radial saw recall'. If your model is eligible, you should be able to get a new improved guard - and a new table designed to work with it - for free.

And be real careful with that RAS - IMO it is the most dangerous kind of saw.

[Xamu]

HEADS UP!!!
If this is an old Craftsman RAS, check two things:
1. Model number - it is located on the RAS base to the left of the elevation crank. See if it starts with 113.

Yes, it does begin 113

2. Blade guard - is it just over the top of the blade, or is there a swinging clear plastic portion?

Just over the top - no clear plastic portion.

Ok, if the model number starts with 113, and you have no plastic part, make search for 'Craftsman radial saw recall'. If your model is eligible, you should be able to get a new improved guard - and a new table designed to work with it - for free.

And be real careful with that RAS - IMO it is the most dangerous kind of saw.

Good to know - thanks!