https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...it-depth-gauge
Having a bit of time I decided to make one.
I made some changes to the WoodSmith plans. They called for cutting 16 cavities of the same depth and finding screws of multiple lengths to set the height pegs. I thought it easier to get screws of all the same length and drill the cavities different depths. But then I didn't want to have to measure and drill 16 different depths either so I decided four depths would suffice with a screw of proper length would work.
I used a 2-3/4" wide x 17" x 1-1/2 (from a flat 2x4). Holes 1/4" from the edge. 2-3/8" from end then every 1-3/4" apart.
Predrill the 3/32" pilot holes 1-1/2" deep to center the locations Using a Drill press fence makes this easy to hold the 1/4" distance.

The drill the 1" forstner cavities... the point of the forstner on the pilot hole. The hole will break out but with the point in the workpiece its not a problem. Make sure you break out the side away from the fence so you don't drill your fence.

I drilled the first four 3/8" the next four 5/8, the next four 7/8 and the last four 1-1/8 inch so I had to set the drill press depth just four times and did not require the best accuracy.
I selected #6 x 5/8" screws. Turned out the screws were a bit long for the deepest 3 cavities I had to grind off 1/8" off them as the sharp points protruded from the bottom of the jig.
Anyway it turned out OK.

Adjust the height of the screw. If I got within 2-3 thousands I was happy. Make sure you measure the rim of the screw and don't let the point of your measuring device fall in the phillips hole.

Label them (Brother P-touch label maker)


Added hanging hole and a logo.

The coarse wood screw threads made the fine adjustment a bit harder. If I was to do it again, I would get 6-32 flat head machine screws instead of wood screws giving me 2 turns per 1/16th inch resolution. The pilot holes I would tap and drill with #6-32 tap used for metal work, it holds fine for wood where there is no large force on the threads and it would be easier to adjust.
Having a bit of time I decided to make one.
I made some changes to the WoodSmith plans. They called for cutting 16 cavities of the same depth and finding screws of multiple lengths to set the height pegs. I thought it easier to get screws of all the same length and drill the cavities different depths. But then I didn't want to have to measure and drill 16 different depths either so I decided four depths would suffice with a screw of proper length would work.
I used a 2-3/4" wide x 17" x 1-1/2 (from a flat 2x4). Holes 1/4" from the edge. 2-3/8" from end then every 1-3/4" apart.
Predrill the 3/32" pilot holes 1-1/2" deep to center the locations Using a Drill press fence makes this easy to hold the 1/4" distance.
The drill the 1" forstner cavities... the point of the forstner on the pilot hole. The hole will break out but with the point in the workpiece its not a problem. Make sure you break out the side away from the fence so you don't drill your fence.
I drilled the first four 3/8" the next four 5/8, the next four 7/8 and the last four 1-1/8 inch so I had to set the drill press depth just four times and did not require the best accuracy.
I selected #6 x 5/8" screws. Turned out the screws were a bit long for the deepest 3 cavities I had to grind off 1/8" off them as the sharp points protruded from the bottom of the jig.
Anyway it turned out OK.
Adjust the height of the screw. If I got within 2-3 thousands I was happy. Make sure you measure the rim of the screw and don't let the point of your measuring device fall in the phillips hole.
Label them (Brother P-touch label maker)
Added hanging hole and a logo.
The coarse wood screw threads made the fine adjustment a bit harder. If I was to do it again, I would get 6-32 flat head machine screws instead of wood screws giving me 2 turns per 1/16th inch resolution. The pilot holes I would tap and drill with #6-32 tap used for metal work, it holds fine for wood where there is no large force on the threads and it would be easier to adjust.
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