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made the DIY router depth jig

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  • LCHIEN
    Super Moderator
    • Dec 2002
    • 21558
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #1

    made the DIY router depth jig

    https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...it-depth-gauge

    Having a bit of time I decided to make one.

    I made some changes to the WoodSmith plans. They called for cutting 16 cavities of the same depth and finding screws of multiple lengths to set the height pegs. I thought it easier to get screws of all the same length and drill the cavities different depths. But then I didn't want to have to measure and drill 16 different depths either so I decided four depths would suffice with a screw of proper length would work.
    I used a 2-3/4" wide x 17" x 1-1/2 (from a flat 2x4). Holes 1/4" from the edge. 2-3/8" from end then every 1-3/4" apart.
    Predrill the 3/32" pilot holes 1-1/2" deep to center the locations Using a Drill press fence makes this easy to hold the 1/4" distance.
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    The drill the 1" forstner cavities... the point of the forstner on the pilot hole. The hole will break out but with the point in the workpiece its not a problem. Make sure you break out the side away from the fence so you don't drill your fence.
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    I drilled the first four 3/8" the next four 5/8, the next four 7/8 and the last four 1-1/8 inch so I had to set the drill press depth just four times and did not require the best accuracy.
    I selected #6 x 5/8" screws. Turned out the screws were a bit long for the deepest 3 cavities I had to grind off 1/8" off them as the sharp points protruded from the bottom of the jig.
    Anyway it turned out OK.

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    Adjust the height of the screw. If I got within 2-3 thousands I was happy. Make sure you measure the rim of the screw and don't let the point of your measuring device fall in the phillips hole.
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    Label them (Brother P-touch label maker)
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    Added hanging hole and a logo.

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    The coarse wood screw threads made the fine adjustment a bit harder. If I was to do it again, I would get 6-32 flat head machine screws instead of wood screws giving me 2 turns per 1/16th inch resolution. The pilot holes I would tap and drill with #6-32 tap used for metal work, it holds fine for wood where there is no large force on the threads and it would be easier to adjust.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 10-19-2024, 11:19 AM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions
  • LCHIEN
    Super Moderator
    • Dec 2002
    • 21558
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    TBH, I usually use this to set my router bit depth:
    Click image for larger version

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    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • leehljp
      The Full Monte
      • Dec 2002
      • 8616
      • Tunica, MS
      • BT3000/3100

      #3
      A problem I have with getting the right height on router bits is the visual adjustments even with router lift. My eyes can't tell when the router bit is touching vs being .01 or .005 inch or or so. However I can tell the difference from the feel on a board when the bit is not the right height.

      I waffle between "it is now lifting the gauge, so it must go back down .00?" - then taking it .002 - .005 too low - In other words it is a fine feeler gauge off. My eyes have difficulty seeing when it is precisely "touching" the height gauge vs off by .002 or .005. The only way I can actually tell is to have a white piece of paper on the back side so that I can distinguish between precisely touching and negative .002 or .005 etc.

      The precise height is a necessity but being off by .005 or so is hard to see - BUT it can be felt on a routed board.
      Last edited by leehljp; 10-19-2024, 07:36 AM.
      Hank Lee

      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

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