I figured the adhesion issue. It is a problem with the slicing software. I am trying to use Cura with the Ender 3 profile, which SHOULD be identical to my Voxelab Aquila, but for some reason no matter what the hot end and bed temp settings are, it comes out at 175c for the hot end and 50c for the bed / build plate. Dug into using VoxelMaker, Voxleabs own slicing software and so far it is pretty good although my prints are curling, Trying again with cooling turned off to try to slow the cooling process down a bit...
I am trying to print snap together case halves for a Raspberry Pi 5 + Pimoroni NVME base at least right now.
I have a second printer, a MUCH larger format printer coming in today, another Voxelab, this time the Aquila S3 Max which has a 400x400x400 build dimension, WAY bigger than I am going to need, but I am getting into Sketchup and I am going to design / 3d print an electrical I/O panel for the camper van. Basically an enclosure for the heater thermostat / control, control / display for the inverter, 12V outlet panel, USB charging, and switches for the water pump and some exterior lighting. When I bought my Aquila I didn't think I would need to / want to print anything big, well I found out I was wrong, Although probably 75% of my prints are less than 4x4x4 inches, I have printed some "Seasonal" flower pots for my wifes grave while we waited for the marker and vases which we now have...
IF I could step back in time and start over, I would...
#1. Start with the larger printer. You can always print smaller stuff on a bigger printer, you cannot print bigger stuff on a smaller printer. At the time I bought though, big 3D ptiners were in the price class of a SawStop. Not gonna happen on my budget. I was planning on using an expander kit on my aquila called the "Ender Extender", but the new printer is actually cheaper than the upgrade parts I originally planned on. One of those stupid cheap introductory sales...
#2. Printer that has the one touch leveling setup. Bed levelling is such a PITA it isn't funny, good thing is once it is set it TENDS to stay that way as long as I can keep the cat away from it... One touch / auto leveling makes the process easier and more accurate, in a manner of speaking. I can shoot you an expalnation video if you'd like. I am going to add one touch leveling to my existing Aquila, and the Aquila S3Max, the new one, comes with it.
#3. This is where the Aquila series kind of goes flat. A high temp hot end that can do 300 deg C. Due to the PTFE Bowden tube used on this style of printer, hot end temps are limited to something around 250 deg C, plenty good for PETG, but things like Nylon or ABS I think are out of my range to print...
#4. I am going with cheap printers, and the cooling fans are LOUD, not much you can do factory from them, but I WILL be upgrading the cooling fans on my Aquila as it is well out of warranty now, and it was / is designed as an open source tinkerers product / project anyway. I found some nearly dead silent fans that are an easy swap, but they are also LED RGBW lighted which is a bit tacky by my taste, but some may love it...
#5. You may, or may not want an enclosed printer, I went with open frame printers, enclosed printers are easier to control cooling on and keep the cat away from the print bed, they are also a LOT more expensive than open frame printers. Get what you pay for in this example. No regrets on my end, just trying to learn it all with some more finesse....
I am going to look up that drill press vacuum attachment / adapter. Might have to print one of those up for myself...
I have had some VERY good prints with PLA and since it is biodegradeable / bioplastic, I don't have any ethical issues using it... I have ethernet cable clamps, clamps that hold my WiFi 6 mesh routers through the house, cases for my Raspberry Pi 4Bs, replacement ends for my Bt3100 miter fence etc...
My current batch I am trying to work on is like I mentioned the camper electrical IO panel, chisel retainers for the pegboard tool cabinet, and I am piddling around with ideas for other shop applications.
I am moving more toward PETG as it is more long term stable and less brittle than PLA, but again, working the issues I have with it as we go. Mostly learning curve and apparently somewhere in the slicing software, cura, was an update that broke stuff... Happens, Just going to use what the printer MFG recommends instead...
I am trying to print snap together case halves for a Raspberry Pi 5 + Pimoroni NVME base at least right now.
I have a second printer, a MUCH larger format printer coming in today, another Voxelab, this time the Aquila S3 Max which has a 400x400x400 build dimension, WAY bigger than I am going to need, but I am getting into Sketchup and I am going to design / 3d print an electrical I/O panel for the camper van. Basically an enclosure for the heater thermostat / control, control / display for the inverter, 12V outlet panel, USB charging, and switches for the water pump and some exterior lighting. When I bought my Aquila I didn't think I would need to / want to print anything big, well I found out I was wrong, Although probably 75% of my prints are less than 4x4x4 inches, I have printed some "Seasonal" flower pots for my wifes grave while we waited for the marker and vases which we now have...
IF I could step back in time and start over, I would...
#1. Start with the larger printer. You can always print smaller stuff on a bigger printer, you cannot print bigger stuff on a smaller printer. At the time I bought though, big 3D ptiners were in the price class of a SawStop. Not gonna happen on my budget. I was planning on using an expander kit on my aquila called the "Ender Extender", but the new printer is actually cheaper than the upgrade parts I originally planned on. One of those stupid cheap introductory sales...
#2. Printer that has the one touch leveling setup. Bed levelling is such a PITA it isn't funny, good thing is once it is set it TENDS to stay that way as long as I can keep the cat away from it... One touch / auto leveling makes the process easier and more accurate, in a manner of speaking. I can shoot you an expalnation video if you'd like. I am going to add one touch leveling to my existing Aquila, and the Aquila S3Max, the new one, comes with it.
#3. This is where the Aquila series kind of goes flat. A high temp hot end that can do 300 deg C. Due to the PTFE Bowden tube used on this style of printer, hot end temps are limited to something around 250 deg C, plenty good for PETG, but things like Nylon or ABS I think are out of my range to print...
#4. I am going with cheap printers, and the cooling fans are LOUD, not much you can do factory from them, but I WILL be upgrading the cooling fans on my Aquila as it is well out of warranty now, and it was / is designed as an open source tinkerers product / project anyway. I found some nearly dead silent fans that are an easy swap, but they are also LED RGBW lighted which is a bit tacky by my taste, but some may love it...
#5. You may, or may not want an enclosed printer, I went with open frame printers, enclosed printers are easier to control cooling on and keep the cat away from the print bed, they are also a LOT more expensive than open frame printers. Get what you pay for in this example. No regrets on my end, just trying to learn it all with some more finesse....
I am going to look up that drill press vacuum attachment / adapter. Might have to print one of those up for myself...
I have had some VERY good prints with PLA and since it is biodegradeable / bioplastic, I don't have any ethical issues using it... I have ethernet cable clamps, clamps that hold my WiFi 6 mesh routers through the house, cases for my Raspberry Pi 4Bs, replacement ends for my Bt3100 miter fence etc...
My current batch I am trying to work on is like I mentioned the camper electrical IO panel, chisel retainers for the pegboard tool cabinet, and I am piddling around with ideas for other shop applications.
I am moving more toward PETG as it is more long term stable and less brittle than PLA, but again, working the issues I have with it as we go. Mostly learning curve and apparently somewhere in the slicing software, cura, was an update that broke stuff... Happens, Just going to use what the printer MFG recommends instead...
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