Frustration

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  • Pappy
    The Full Monte
    • Dec 2002
    • 10453
    • San Marcos, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 (x2)

    Frustration

    I finally decided to expand the wood storage area attached to the playpen to make it more accessable. It was just under 3' wide with shelves on the outside wall for lumber and a rack for plywood on the inside wall. The shelves meant lumber had to be pulled in and out from the end and often meant taking several pieces out to get to the ones I wanted.

    I retained the outside wall. expanded the floor to 5' wide, and reframed both ends. Plywood storage is now on the outside wall and I am installing a shop built rack system on the inside wall for lumber stock.

    With the long hours I have been working, weather problems, holiday activities, and having all the contents stacked undeer a tarp on the work deck progress has been slow. I finally got the uprights for the lumber rack cut and drillled. SYP 2x6 cut to 5' and ripped lenghtwise to makk 4 uprights. Holes for the pipe are drilled 2" deep at 5 degrees every 9" starting about 2" from the floor. (Thanks to Loring for the tip on modifying a 3/4" speed bore bit.)

    I picked up some 1/4" lag bolts to attach the uprights to Playpen studs. After breaking 3 of them, even with the holes predrilled, I decided to stop and switch to heavier bolts. I will head over to Tractor Supply in a few to return the remaining bolts and the washers for 3/8 bolts. Going with the heavier bolts I should be able to go shorter and still have plenty of holding power. I was using 5" bolts that gave me about 2 1/4" into the studs. I will switch to 4" bolts and recess them a little more so that I will have 1 1/2" of thread into the studs. I left the fence set up on the DP so alignment for redrilling will be easy. With 4 bolts per upright that should be more than enough holding power.

    Once the uprights are mounted I get to start cutting 1/2" conduit for the arms. The best way woud be to use a pipe cutter but, considering the number I need, I may set up my HF metal chop saw and clean up the ends on a disc sander. I will try the cutter first to see how long it takes. Hopefully I can find a PVC end cap that will fit on the pipe to cover the exposed ends. If not, I will have to make caps from some dowell.

    After I get the wood off the deck and inside I can get the BT out and make new doors. If all goes well I will get some pics up tonight.
    Last edited by Pappy; 01-06-2013, 09:48 AM.
    Don, aka Pappy,

    Wise men talk because they have something to say,
    Fools because they have to say something.
    Plato
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 21038
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    Originally posted by Pappy
    I finally decided to expand the wood storage area attached to the playpen to make it more accessable....

    Holes for the pipe are drilled 2" deep at 5 degrees every 9" starting about 2" from the floor. (Thanks to Loring for the tip on modifying a 3/4" speed bore bit.)

    ...
    Hah, I was just thinking about that when I started reading your post. You're very welcome.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • chopnhack
      Veteran Member
      • Oct 2006
      • 3779
      • Florida
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #3
      How are you driving the lags into the wood Pappy?
      I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

      Comment

      • Pappy
        The Full Monte
        • Dec 2002
        • 10453
        • San Marcos, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 (x2)

        #4
        Originally posted by chopnhack
        How are you driving the lags into the wood Pappy?
        I was using a drill to get them close and then tightening them with a ratchet. The bolts were 5" and I'm not positive the holes were predrilled deep enough.

        Switched them out for 3/8" x 4", predrilled with a 1/4" bit, drove them close with an air ratchet, then finished tightening them with a hand ratchet.
        Don, aka Pappy,

        Wise men talk because they have something to say,
        Fools because they have to say something.
        Plato

        Comment

        • cabinetman
          Gone but not Forgotten RIP
          • Jun 2006
          • 15216
          • So. Florida
          • Delta

          #5
          Originally posted by Pappy
          I was using a drill to get them close and then tightening them with a ratchet. The bolts were 5" and I'm not positive the holes were predrilled deep enough.

          Switched them out for 3/8" x 4", predrilled with a 1/4" bit, drove them close with an air ratchet, then finished tightening them with a hand ratchet.

          That's how I install them.

          .

          Comment

          • Pappy
            The Full Monte
            • Dec 2002
            • 10453
            • San Marcos, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 (x2)

            #6
            Didn't get as far as I wanted but did make some progress.

            The lumber rack is in but I have to clean most of the conduit better. It was cut from some I had that has been laying around outside for a long time. The sheet goods storage was already in place.

            Except for 1x facia, some 2x framing, and plastic for the vapor barrier, everything was stuff I had on hand so the cost is negligible.

            The 3' opening will get double frame and panel doors.
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            The roof is fiberglass R panel I got from a neighbor to let some light it.
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            Thinking I need either a strap band or maybe a joist hangar at the bottom to strengthen the wood under the bottom supports.
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            With the 16" conduit installed I still have a 2' walk area.
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            Don, aka Pappy,

            Wise men talk because they have something to say,
            Fools because they have to say something.
            Plato

            Comment

            • thestinker
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2005
              • 613
              • Fort Worth, TX, USA.

              #7
              Lookin really good.
              Awww forget trying to fix it!!!! Lets just drink beer

              Comment

              • chopnhack
                Veteran Member
                • Oct 2006
                • 3779
                • Florida
                • Ryobi BT3100

                #8
                Originally posted by Pappy
                I was using a drill to get them close and then tightening them with a ratchet. The bolts were 5" and I'm not positive the holes were predrilled deep enough.
                Those are pretty long! Did you use any lube on them? The storage room is shaping up quickly, framed up, rain ready and storage rack waiting for wood, pretty good, I'd say! :-)
                I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

                Comment

                • LCHIEN
                  Internet Fact Checker
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 21038
                  • Katy, TX, USA.
                  • BT3000 vintage 1999

                  #9
                  pappy! you don't have an impact driver yet???
                  I use a 1/4" hex to 3/8" socket drive adapter and they punch in 1/4" lags like nothing.
                  Of course, I usually use a long 12" brad point 3/16th drill to predrill them.

                  Did you use dish soap (or hard soap) on the threads prior to driving them in (as someone recommended)?
                  Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-08-2013, 09:14 AM.
                  Loring in Katy, TX USA
                  If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                  BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                  Comment

                  • LCHIEN
                    Internet Fact Checker
                    • Dec 2002
                    • 21038
                    • Katy, TX, USA.
                    • BT3000 vintage 1999

                    #10
                    Here is a lag screw table I found on the internet.
                    Gives the shear strength and tensile strength.
                    and strength at an angle. (0 degrees = all shear, 90 degrees = all tensile (pull out))
                    Note the embedment depth is 8 diameters (i.e. 8 x 1/4" = 2.0") to achieve the tensile strength. Generally more embedment = more pull-out strength up to the mechanical failure of the bolt itself.
                    Also this does not take into account the type of wood (softwood or hardwood) and the grade of the bolt (which does not seem to be standardized for lag bolts).
                    So I'd take it with a big grain of salt, but it should give you an approximation of the load capacities of the lag screws if you use it conservatively.

                    http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...r/lagtable.jpg
                    Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-08-2013, 09:24 AM.
                    Loring in Katy, TX USA
                    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                    Comment

                    • Crockett
                      Established Member
                      • Mar 2003
                      • 253
                      • Buffalo, NY, USA.
                      • BT3100

                      #11
                      That looks great Pappy! I bet this kind of OT is a lot more enjoyable - of course you don't make big bucks this way Did things at the PO slow down finally?
                      Al

                      Comment

                      • Pappy
                        The Full Monte
                        • Dec 2002
                        • 10453
                        • San Marcos, TX, USA.
                        • BT3000 (x2)

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Crockett
                        Did things at the PO slow down finally?
                        Other than the package load for Christmas it hasn't slowed down much. I was just getting burned out on the 10+ hour days and delivering mail in the dark 6 days a week. I am on the list for 'work assignment' this qtr which nmeans I work the hours required for my route and don't work my days off. If we are too short handed they can still require overtime off the list.

                        I will probably go back the the OT list in April.
                        Don, aka Pappy,

                        Wise men talk because they have something to say,
                        Fools because they have to say something.
                        Plato

                        Comment

                        • Pappy
                          The Full Monte
                          • Dec 2002
                          • 10453
                          • San Marcos, TX, USA.
                          • BT3000 (x2)

                          #13
                          As much as I would have liked to spent the afternoon watching football, I got some time on the shop today. Finished cleaning the conduit and reinforced the bottom of the uprights.

                          For the reinforcement, I cut the flanges off 2x10 joist hangers, wedged them tight against the bottom with a piece of ply and a shim, and attached them with 2 screws on each side.

                          I have to modify some brackets to hang my work lights and some storage tubes, but I got the wood off the work deck before I called it quits for the day. I can get the BT out now to build the doors, work on the brackets, and make some safety caps for the exposed ends of the conduit.

                          Sorry about the poor quality of the pics. They were done with my phone and taken after dark as an afterthought. I will take some better pics once the job is complete.

                          The remaining wood is Cedar that is too long to go inside.
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                          Still need to do some rearranging and clean up.
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                          Don, aka Pappy,

                          Wise men talk because they have something to say,
                          Fools because they have to say something.
                          Plato

                          Comment

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