Alternate method for hanging cabinets

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  • cabinetman
    Gone but not Forgotten RIP
    • Jun 2006
    • 15216
    • So. Florida
    • Delta

    #31
    Originally posted by chopnhack
    Sorry cabinetman, I probably threw ya when I said difficult and u shaped! Thanks for your input, it has been helpful. I will post later the hinges I intend to use, maybe you can tell me if you think they will work out ok. I think the problem area will be in balancing the reveal between the center unit and sides. Not uber crucial, but nice to know.the right way of doing things.
    I've got a link for you that might have something in it that would make it easier for you.
    http://bt3central.com/showthread.php...tiple+cabinets
    Like many of my threads that were explanatory, there were very few if any replies. Can't really understand not responding to the offer of help, not even thanks. But it's out there to be read, so I guess that's enough. Not much of an impetus to continue along those lines.

    .

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    • chopnhack
      Veteran Member
      • Oct 2006
      • 3779
      • Florida
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #32
      Thanks C-man. I think I will use these press in hinges: 75T1580 and 175L8190

      Your post was good and informative, not sure what the only response meant by "Some of you work probably scared people from woodworking." ? Maybe an English to English difficulty.

      Do you think that the back must be rabbeted in for strength? Do you think that it will not gain similar strength from simply being attached on the back? I was trying to minimize the operations to a bare minimum since these will be laundry room cabs, but "if its worth doing do it right" is something I ascribe to...
      I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

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      • cabinetman
        Gone but not Forgotten RIP
        • Jun 2006
        • 15216
        • So. Florida
        • Delta

        #33
        Originally posted by chopnhack
        Your post was good and informative, not sure what the only response meant by "Some of you work probably scared people from woodworking." ? Maybe an English to English difficulty.
        I thought about that and some of the pieces I've posted may appear too difficult for DIY fabrication.

        Originally posted by chopnhack
        Do you think that the back must be rabbeted in for strength? Do you think that it will not gain similar strength from simply being attached on the back? I was trying to minimize the operations to a bare minimum since these will be laundry room cabs, but "if its worth doing do it right" is something I ascribe to...
        I rabbet backs as it helps insure a square hold on the case. In an alcove with a finished bottom, a rabbeted back will be unseen compared to an add on back.

        As for the "alternative method for hanging cabinets", as a professional, I run into all kinds of installation challenges. Between residential and commercial work, the site sometimes isn't what you would expect. So, it takes planning and at times some innovation to insure a good and safe install.

        In the picture below, the installation required the two upper cabinets to be installed to a poured concrete ceiling. It is definitely an "alternative" to the common cabinet to stud installation.
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        The cabinets are about 12" wide, 4' high, 5' long. They are Macassar Ebony, with a glass front, sliding glass doors on the back, and ½" glass shelves. Antigue, collectible, and glass serving pieces are displayed. The total weight would be difficult to determine, but I'd guess a couple hundred pounds each.

        I used dead men and my trusty floor jack to lift the cabinets into position. While there, with my Makita hammerdrill, drilled through the absolute top of the cabinet 6 installation holes for ⅝" x 6" Red Head sleeve anchors into the poured concrete ceiling. I couldn't use the soffit on the face, as there wasn't anything really structural in there...just a raceway for the A/C ducting.

        The cabinets had a face frame, and I wanted the ceiling in the cabinet to be flush with the bottom edge of the top rail of the face frame. I had electrical to hook up for lighting, so that panel was made to be removable. The actual floor of the cabinet was also installed to be removable and flush with the top edge of the bottom rail, as I needed space inside for lighting on the bottom of the cabinet. I think it turned out pretty good.

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        • chopnhack
          Veteran Member
          • Oct 2006
          • 3779
          • Florida
          • Ryobi BT3100

          #34
          Originally posted by cabinetman
          I rabbet backs as it helps insure a square hold on the case. In an alcove with a finished bottom, a rabbeted back will be unseen compared to an add on back.
          Good point, no thin line on the back.

          Came out good?! LOL, you nailed that one. The design is not my style, but it certainly keeps with the rest of that commercial/condo units decor and flair.
          Six 5/8"-6" red heads, wo! The pullout on one of those is in the thousands by itself, I dont think that cab is every going anywhere.
          I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

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