Pipe clamps

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  • LarryG
    The Full Monte
    • May 2004
    • 6693
    • Off The Back
    • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

    #16
    Originally posted by pelligrini
    ... I'll use a piece of wax paper between the pipe and the joint.
    This is what I do. The waxed paper also catches drips that would otherwise end up on your bench or assembly table.

    I've read numerous recommendations to use galvanized pipe because it won't mark the wood like black iron will; don't recall ever reading the opposite. I have seen a few reports of the sliding pipe jaw not being able to grip as securely on the galvanizing due to it being more slippery. But I'm only repeating what I've read, as all my experience is with black iron.

    My local Home Depot used to cut and thread pipe for free. I'd buy a 10 foot stick for $10 and they'd reduce it down to whatever lengths I wanted. But I think they now charge $1 per cut and another $1 per threading -- which is still not a bad deal.
    Larry

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    • phi1l
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2009
      • 681
      • Madison, WI

      #17
      About the only thing to check for on those is that the ball joint connecting the crank & clamp surface is in tact if they are treated too rough the ball can pop out.

      Comment

      • chopnhack
        Veteran Member
        • Oct 2006
        • 3779
        • Florida
        • Ryobi BT3100

        #18
        Awesome info Phi1l! I will definitely look at that closely. I was thinking about taking a piece of 2x8 with me and stress the clamps a little to make sure they grip and the castings are intact.
        I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

        Comment

        • chopnhack
          Veteran Member
          • Oct 2006
          • 3779
          • Florida
          • Ryobi BT3100

          #19
          Here is the score, 11 pipe clamps and 1 band clamp for $75. Already found a great place to store them






          When I get back in the shop I will make some space and store these too.

          I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

          Comment

          • pelligrini
            Veteran Member
            • Apr 2007
            • 4217
            • Fort Worth, TX
            • Craftsman 21829

            #20
            Not a bad deal at all. That's a heavy duty looking strap clamp. I've never seen one like it before.
            Erik

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            • jdon
              Established Member
              • Feb 2010
              • 401
              • Snoqualmie, Wash.
              • BT3100

              #21
              But how did that HF bar clamp sneak into the edge of the picture- envy on its part??

              Comment

              • chopnhack
                Veteran Member
                • Oct 2006
                • 3779
                • Florida
                • Ryobi BT3100

                #22
                I'm sure
                It's holding a stack of 2x4's against the vertical plywood rack. I managed to clean up all of my ply and most of my lumber mess into that one small area, very pleased with that outcome. On to constructing a lumber rack!
                I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

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                • dbhost
                  Slow and steady
                  • Apr 2008
                  • 9221
                  • League City, Texas
                  • Ryobi BT3100

                  #23
                  Not a bad score at all...

                  If you are at all concerned about the cosmetics of those clamps, I know Rustoleum has an orange that is VERY close to the one Jorgensen / Pony uses... I used it to repaint my machinists vise...
                  Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                  Comment

                  • BrazosJake
                    Veteran Member
                    • Nov 2003
                    • 1148
                    • Benbrook, TX.
                    • Emerson-built Craftsman

                    #24
                    Good score. I keep plenty of HF pipe clamps around, don't use them that much, they're mostly backup for long carcass glue-ups, which I haven't done in a while. FWIW, I haven't bought HF pipe clamps in a couple years, but back then there were 2 different styles of 3/4". The "better" ones cost 2x as much, but there is no functional difference between the two, same size jaws, same height.

                    Parallel-jaw clamps are great, but I find them a pain in lengths over 36". Who was complaining about pipe clamps being heavy? Try hefting a 60" Jorgy parallel-jaw in one hand, and the same length 3/4" pipe clamp in the other. You could balance the pipe clamp horizontally in one hand. Good luck with the PJ, which has it's weight all in one end with those massive jaws (which, BTW, can break if you drop it).

                    I also submit that if you must tighten a 3/4" pipe clamp enough to put a permanent bend even in a 6' length of steel pipe, you don't need better clamps, you need to make better joints.

                    Someone quoted $2 PF for black pipe. Last I bought at HD was $1 PF in 10' lengths, cut & threaded however I wanted for free. That plus HF clamps are a good way to get started cheap. Most of mine is used for overhead storage.

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