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  • #31
    Originally posted by Eric View Post
    I'm not an electrician by any means, but it seems to me, if you're adding a grounding rod then you shouldn't need to connect the ground from the main panel to the sub panel. But I don't think it would hurt to have it wired into the sub's ground bus.
    Lets hope and electrician adds his knowledge here. There is something about having only one ground point and having all the grounds tied together. You may well be correct but it's not something to be wrong about.


    Bill
    over here on the left side, slightly confused.

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    • #32
      I didn't want to open a new thread, but if an electrician doesn't chime in, I'll address a thread specifically for them.

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      • #33
        Good luck on your "new" shop. Your plan sounds good, the only thing I would change is do away with the dry wall. First of all in a shop it doesn't take a large thump with a piece of wood to blow a hole in the wall, secondly, I paneled my shop with inexpensive 1/2 chipboard smooth side out. That way if needed you can drive a screw ANYWHERE to hang something, and chipboard takes paint well if you want "dress" up the place.
        RuffSawn
        Nothin' smells better than fresh sawdust!

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        • #34
          Yeah, I was torn about that. But drywall is actually cheaper than the chipboard by a fair amount. I already purchased the drywall, but I guess I can always return it. But I do like that look.

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          • #35
            Well, I figure it's time for an update. Progress has stalled, as I've been working on my old apartment in my duplex. I have a renter for Oct, so I have to bust my butt to make sure the place is done by then.

            But, I've fully run the 6/3 from the house to the garage. I need to connect it to the main panel yet, but the sub panel is installed. All of the boxes are in, and the romex is run for most of the garage. I just have a small run that I need to do, but I'm waiting until I disconnect the old electrical feed.

            Once that's done, I'll be removing part of the ceiling between the main part of the garage and the lofted area. That way I'll have actual access to that and be able to store things up there- primarily sheet goods. The 24' long 2x10s to double up the joists around the opening are delivered, and just need to be sized and installed.

            The drywall and insulation is delivered. 22 sheets of 4x12'. Luckily, the truck was able to get down the alley for the delivery and drop the pallet right into the garage. That saved me having to spend $45 to have them move it, or having to haul it myself from the street.

            I may have over-bought the insulation, but I'm thinking I'll insulate both the room and the ceiling for the shop. The ceiling for the shop will come first, but any extra will be used for the roof. Then I'll install the insulation on the walls, vapor barrier, and finally rock the ceiling and the walls.

            Any tips, tricks, or tools to installing drywall? I have a good drywall square to measure and cut the drywall. But I'm wondering how I can best locate the electrical boxes.

            I'll post pictures once I get back to it. I need this apartment done by Oct, but then it's all about the shop and getting the lathe up and running, as I have a show I'll be selling pens at, and I need to build up stock.

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            • #36
              Don't worry about those stalls... Just start back up and plug away best you can...
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              • #37
                Update! Pics!

                OK, well the progress on the shop is going well. I have a new panel installed and all the wiring is done. All told, I have 7 breakers set up for the garage:
                -(2) 20A breakers for wall outlets on the shop-side walls. The outlets are every-other for the breakers, so if I have two items plugged into outlets next to eachother, they're actually on two separate breakers. That used a LOT more wire, but I think it's worth it.
                -(1) 20A 220 breaker to a single outlet. My TS os only wired for 110 now, but if I ever upgrade the circuit is there.
                -(1) 15A breaker to handle the "garage" side outlets. This includes the door opener.
                -(1) 15A breaker to handle the current garage lighting: 2 simple blub sockets and an outdoor lamp.
                -(1) 20A breaker for the exterior outlet.
                -(1) 15A breaker for the "shop" lighting. The lighting will be 6 flourescent shop lights with the sunlight bulbs in them. The shop lights will be recessed between the rafters, hung on hooks with chain. They will all be wired with plugs and will plug into an outlet in the light bay. This way, they're not permanently affixed and I can easily take them down to repair or replace.

                I've also insulated the walls with R13, and the ceiling with R19.

                For vapor barrier, I used 6mil over the minimum code of 4mil. I used red wrap tape to seal the electrical boxes as best I can, and will use it to seal the transition between the walls and the ceiling.

                I also cut an access bay for the ceiling. There was some argument about whether or not the rafters could support the weight of drywall or anything on top of them, but I used my judgment and decided it was OK. I'll not be storing much in the upper area, but I do want access up there for some sheet goods and other storage. I'll eventually make a door for the bay so that is insulated as well.

                This weekend I'll be drywalling the ceiling, and the walls if I can get to it.

                After that, I'll probably hold off on taping due to the cold weather, and my need to get into the shop now.

                Additional future steps are: install an insulation kit in the garage door. Install the garage door seal/ curb I purchased. and add a second coat of the walltite water barrier paint to the cinderblock wall base.
                Attached Files

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                • #38
                  Looks good to me. Are either of those 20 amp 110s going to be for a dust collector?
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                  • #39
                    I have an old Jet portable dust collecor. I don't think I quite have the space/ need for a large cyclone style or a piped system. Maybe sometime later, but for now the portable one will work.

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                    • #40
                      Actually I was thinking amp draw... Just make sure that you run the DC on a separate circuit from the table saw. I can NOT run my BT on the same circuit as my DC or the BT bogs down and stops. That can't be good for the motor...
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                      • #41
                        just a thought -
                        if you haven't you should consider separate 20A breakers and corresponding outlets for
                        1. Table saw and other major power tools that will be on one at a time.
                        1a. Second tool circuit if you ever upgrade #1 to 220V but still have some 110V tools.
                        2. Dust collector/vacuum system etc
                        3. Air compressor
                        4. Air conditioning/heating

                        #2 is a heavy, full current load
                        #3 & 4 are heavy loads that may come on at any time due to pressure sensors and thermostats


                        whether they (#s 1-4) need to be 110 or 220 depends upon how ambitious your shop will be. You can arrange your breaker box so its easy to upgrade to 220 if you install 110 now, if that is a possible future requirement for these dedicated items.

                        also consider:
                        lighting, a 15A circuit will power approx 15 dual-4'ft Fluorescent fixtures There's a lot of talk about putting lights on two circuits but if you have some task lighting on your benches and tools - that should be enough to get out of the shop safely if the main light circuit goes out.
                        Freezer unit (if you have this in your "shared" garage shop) then you will want a dedicated plug you can't trip and ruin your frozen food.
                        Last edited by LCHIEN; 11-13-2010, 09:09 AM.
                        Loring in Katy, TX USA
                        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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                        • #42
                          Thanks for all of the feedback!

                          You may have missed a detail I provided: for the "shop side" walls, I have 2 circuits. The outlets are on every 3rd stud, with the circuits alternating. So, I can have a table saw plugged into one circuit, and then I can plug my dust collector into the next nearest outlet and that will be on a second circuit. So if you were to number the circuits- along the wall an outlet would be on circuit 1, then 2, then 1, then 2 and so forth. Took more wire, but I don't have to worry about overloading one circuit if I use two adjacent outlets.

                          With the lighting, there wasa circuit already in place for the two basic lights in there now. I didn't want to change that up, so I just added a different second lighting circuit.


                          It's a good point about the circuit for heating/ cooling. For now, I plan on using a kerosene or propane heater. But in the future I'll eventually want to invest in a heat pump heating and cooling unit. That'll be a project to add a new circuit, but at this point everything's buttoned up, and that is some time from now.

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