Switch box for router on accessory table

[Bill in Buena Park]

I finally got tired of using my router's switch (and the switch on my 21829) when running my router on the accessory table, so added a dedicated switch/outlet combo.

Fastened 2 outlet boxes back2back, switch on front, outlet on back, ran 6ft of 12/3 cord to it, and mounted to my accessory table. Mounting is semi-permanent: I used Liquid Nails to glue the assembly to a 1/2in ply spacer, and to glue the spacer to the underside of the acc. table. I think I could un-mount if needed - but not without considerable force.

Utilitarian, and working very well. Thanks for looking.

[cabinetman]

I agree with you that turning the router off and on is a hassle. Adding the switch was a good idea. I was wondering why your router is offset to the left, and the switch is on the right...are you a lefty? Also, in that picture are you running the stock between the bit and the fence?
.

[dbhost]

Something I am going to have to consider.

[pelligrini]

I was wondering why your router is offset to the left, and the switch is on the right...are you a lefty?

That's the accessory table for the 21829. It has the router set towards the front of the saw. Maybe they thought it would be a good idea for more infeed length.

[dbhost]

That's the accessory table for the 21829. It has the router set towards the front of the saw. Maybe they thought it would be a good idea for more infeed length.

The BT3100 table is offset left as well. Putting the switch on the right permits better access to the router I would imagine. It makes perfect sense to me anyway...

[pelligrini]

The BT3100 table is offset left as well. Putting the switch on the right permits better access to the router I would imagine. It makes perfect sense to me anyway...

It is? hehe, I never really paid attention. (and I have one, sometimes two BT tables on my 21829)

[Bill in Buena Park]

Thanks for the comments.

Mike, gonna start calling you Hawkeye. The fence is set back a bit from the bit because its a bearing-guided roundover. I made my first passes for incremental stock removal with the fence forward, and last pass with the fence back to fully utilize the bearing. left fence nearby to take advantage of the DC through the fence.

I'm not sure why Ryobi casts the tables with the router openings on the left - but maybe Erik has a point with infeed.

I put the switch on the right as a matter of convenience, as Dave states; I'm a righty, and most of my table-mounted equipment has either center mounted switches, or right-side switches, which works well for me. There is some space limitation under the acc. table for placing a switch, which was another consideration.

[os1kne]

Nice idea with the back-to-back boxes.

[Garasaki]

So how's this thing get power?

You run a 12/3 extension cord to the outlet boxes?

[tjr]

You could also do this with a single junction box and a combination outlet/switch, but maybe you wanted the plug to be on the back side of the boxes and the switch on the front?

[Bill in Buena Park]

John, its really the same principle as the BT3 switch - the switch/outlet combo is wired to the plug, and you plug the saw into the BT3 outlet, and the cord into the wall outlet. Same here - the 12/3 cord is fitted on one end with a plug, and on the other end is wired "hot" to the switch in the front box, and "neutral" and "ground" to the outlet in the back box. The other pole of the switch is then wired to the other side of the outlet, and you essentially have a switchable outlet.

TJR, I considered the combo switch/outlet, but as you say, didn't want the router's plug sticking out in the same neighborhood as the switch. Also, since I used a dual outlet, I can power my DC or shopvac off the same switch box.

[LCHIEN]

My guess for the router hole being offset to the left (as viewed from the side) is to provide more infeed support when working from the side (the primary router user position), and to not have the router mounted too far in if working from the front (kind of a secondary user position option). I think they tried to optimize space while keeping the auxiliary table area small to control footprint and weight and cost - the BT3 is all about reasonable design compromises and tradeoffs. Being movable and the primary purpose being wider rip and crosscut support, small width was acceptable provided it moved left and right. The router table function was a secondary bonus sales feature for not much added cost.

[Garasaki]

John, its really the same principle as the BT3 switch - the switch/outlet combo is wired to the plug, and you plug the saw into the BT3 outlet, and the cord into the wall outlet. Same here - the 12/3 cord is fitted on one end with a plug, and on the other end is wired "hot" to the switch in the front box, and "neutral" and "ground" to the outlet in the back box.

Ok thats what I figured.

I gotta tell ya, I really like the BT3 as a router table. I have never used a "real" router table so maybe that's why I like the BT3 one - but it sure beats routing by hand!

[LCHIEN]

Ok thats what I figured.

I gotta tell ya, I really like the BT3 as a router table. I have never used a "real" router table so maybe that's why I like the BT3 one - but it sure beats routing by hand!

I agree, moving from a handheld router to a router table is like moving from a handheld circular saw to a table saw...

but, if you like the BT3 as a router table, you'll really like a real router table.

[Bill in Buena Park]

I agree, moving from a handheld router to a router table is like moving from a handheld circular saw to a table saw...

but, if you like the BT3 as a router table, you'll really like a real router table.

+1 on Loring's comments. And if you're going to do any router panel raising, you'll either have to do vertical bits and a tall fence, or go to a real table, because the acc. table can't handle the standard 2.5 to 3in bits. That's what drove me to build my own big table, anyway.