More sketchup on the garage workshop. Input wanted.

**cgallery** · 04-09-2009, 04:24 PM

I think it looks very well thought out, very clean.

Have you thought about using the 4" duct for your shop vac, as well?

You'd need a blast gate at the inlet of the DC and the inlet of the shop vac. The shop vac will not be able to suspend dust in a 4" pipe, but once you switch the DC on it will evacuate dust that has accumulated in the ducts while the shop vac is running.

A positive is that you'd be able to eliminate the separator you're now using on the vac and just use a bag (saving space). Nothing much will get there, most all will end up in the DC's bag.

The biggest downsides I can see is having to throw two extra blast gates (the ones on the vac and DC) and sucking up small, heavy metal objects (nuts, bolts, etc.) that neither the DC or shop vac will be able to lift back.

But you could add 2.5" ports at strategic points on your 4" duct and kind of have the best of both worlds.

**smorris** · 04-09-2009, 04:27 PM

Wish I knew sketchup that well, I'm still stumbling around trying to make cabinets in it.

Nice layout, looks like you've put a lot of thought into making efficient use of your space.

**LarryG** · 04-09-2009, 04:39 PM

On what items are you seeking input? I see a number of things I might do differently, but they're based on my own tool-usage and work-flow priorities and may not be relevant to you. For example, no matter how small my shop was, I'd want to be able to use my miter saw at any time, even if something else had to give.

Since you mentioned the 4" DC system specifically, two comments on it:

1. Move the across-the-floor branch that serves the table saw closer to the router wing, or even under it, so it won't be so much in the way when you're standing in that area.

2. Is there any reason you couldn't run the main trunk down at the floor? The inlet on the DC is down low, as are the dust ports on most of the tools, so you'd shorten your runs considerably by eliminating what looks to me like a lot of unnecessary ups-and-downs. The main exception to this would be the drill press; if the lathe cabinet isn't on wheels, that branch could also run low, otherwise it would need to go high.

**dbhost** · 04-09-2009, 04:43 PM

Thanks for the comments...

I am not ultra happy with the routing of the 4" to the table saw... Need to keep that in mind...

No I hadn't considered piping 4" to the shop vac. Can't imagine a shop vac would be all that effective with 4"...

The SV seems most likely to be destined to service the Shark Guard, Router fence port, planer, jointer, and sander. The band saw, table saw, drill press, CMS, and soon enough to be lathe will all have 4" line running to them.

For those that don't know, those screwy cylinder things are supposed to represent my water softener and reverse osmosis system. My water was chunky before I added this... I can't exactly move them as they tie into the main line for the whole house, just at the inlet. I have only one unfiltered faucet, and it is on the side of the RO. Wish I didn't need the dumb thing. Maintenance headaches, and it gobbles up valuable space.

**dbhost** · 04-09-2009, 04:48 PM

Originally posted by LarryG

On what items are you seeking input? I see a number of things I might do differently, but they're based on my own tool-usage and work-flow priorities and may not be relevant to you. For example, no matter how small my shop was, I'd want to be able to use my miter saw at any time, even if something else had to give.

Since you mentioned the 4" DC system specifically, two comments on it:

1. Move the across-the-floor branch that serves the table saw closer to the router wing, or even under it, so it won't be so much in the way when you're standing in that area.

2. Is there any reason you couldn't run the main trunk down at the floor? The inlet on the DC is down low, as are the dust ports on most of the tools, so you'd shorten your runs considerably by eliminating what looks to me like a lot of unnecessary ups-and-downs. The main exception to this would be the drill press; if the lathe cabinet isn't on wheels, that branch could also run low, otherwise it would need to go high.

I thought about that. Not sure how to do it though... Stupid RO system in the way along the wall I need to use.

The CMS gets a lot of use, but not enough to keep it set up all the time. Hence the movable nature. I know guys that use their CMS more than the TS. I'm not one of them, yet anyway. I would be happier with it set up for permanent use, but where could I do that and keep the other side open?

Great, now you guys have me thinking "How do I move the RO system away from the wall so I can run my DC plumbing?" LOL...

**LarryG** · 04-09-2009, 04:52 PM

Originally posted by dbhost

Great, now you guys have me thinking "How do I move the RO system away from the wall so I can run my DC plumbing?" LOL...

I wondered how close those items were to the wall, and whether there'd be room to sneak a 4" pipe behind them. (My guess was water softener and water heater. Fifty percent right.)

Another possibility, then: swap the positions of the DC and air compressor. Or put the DC just on the other side of the RO unit. Either way, now the 4" runs are shorter yet, and can be down near the floor since the DC is on the other side of the RO unit.

**radhak** · 04-09-2009, 04:54 PM

Originally posted by LarryG

2. Is there any reason you couldn't run the main trunk down at the floor? The inlet on the DC is down low, as are the dust ports on most of the tools, so you'd shorten your runs considerably by eliminating what looks to me like a lot of unnecessary ups-and-downs. The main exception to this would be the drill press; if the lathe cabinet isn't on wheels, that branch could also run low, otherwise it would need to go high.

I always wondered about this - why would anybody want the main trunk go very high? I'd think as close to the floor as possible would help in performance, so long as it clears the tools / benches / cabinets?

Of course it's a hypothetical question for me - I only have a Jet 650, pretty weak in suction so I keep rolling it from tool to tool with a 3' hose

.

DB, your sketchup skills are beyond me; mebbe i should borrow your file and make minimal changes to diagram my shop...

**cgallery** · 04-09-2009, 05:00 PM

Originally posted by dbhost

No I hadn't considered piping 4" to the shop vac. Can't imagine a shop vac would be all that effective with 4"...

As long as the pipe is air-tight, the bigger the better. The caveat being that any dust will settle in the PVC once it leaves the 2.5" or smaller hose and hits that 4" section. But again, doesn't matter because the DC will have no problem evacuating the pipe the second you turn it on.

**dbhost** · 04-09-2009, 05:54 PM

Originally posted by radhak

I always wondered about this - why would anybody want the main trunk go very high? I'd think as close to the floor as possible would help in performance, so long as it clears the tools / benches / cabinets?

Of course it's a hypothetical question for me - I only have a Jet 650, pretty weak in suction so I keep rolling it from tool to tool with a 3' hose

.

DB, your sketchup skills are beyond me; mebbe i should borrow your file and make minimal changes to diagram my shop...

Physical obstructions...

BTW. I do NOT take credit for a lot of the components. I took existing models, modded them to more closely match my equipment, Like the Band Saw started out as a Grizzly GO555 model, The table saw is the Ryobi BT3000 model that is now a BT3100, the Central Machinery DC is modded to resemble the Wynn filter equipped ones etc...

I am not saying I didn't do a lot to get to where I am with this, but others contributed a LOT of time and effort to make the basic models I use.

The jointer and planer models are mine. Now that I have the Sunhill jointer, I am actually going to get some pretty accurate measurements and spend some quality time modelling that out to a much greater amount of detail for the next guy that wants to lay his shop out with one...

**LCHIEN** · 04-09-2009, 06:54 PM

very impressive use of Sketchup

**jkristia** · 07-12-2009, 02:55 PM

I know this is an old thread, but where did you get all the components from?. I would like to do something simila (SolidWorks, not Sketchup), but would rather not spend time on drawing the individual tools

**dbhost** · 07-12-2009, 05:46 PM

From the Sketchup warehouse. And I do not believe a single tool is as I found it. I edited the files a LOT. Changed colors, changed stands, added tables, removed fences that do not belong etc....

Not sure if the Sketchup files can be converted to Solid Works or not. I somewhat suspect.... Not.

**Rslaugh** · 07-12-2009, 07:09 PM

you must be related to Rod - i don't see any dust or wood chips in your shop.

**dbhost** · 07-12-2009, 07:38 PM

Nope. I simply didn't bother modeling the sawdust and wood chips in Sketchup.

More sketchup on the garage workshop. Input wanted.

More sketchup on the garage workshop. Input wanted.

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