Tweet
In Rich P's thread (here), I posted a few pics of something I made. I also promised more details, which I've finally gotten around to providing. Sorry for the delay. 
My 6” benchtop jointer is ill-suited for edge jointing heavy or long stock, so I often use a pattern bit and straight edge to accomplish the task. Unfortunately, cleanup of the dust and chips makes doing so a chore. I had received as a gift the Rockler edge routing dust collection attachment (mentioned in Rich P's thread), but I had little success with using it. The ABS neck of the Porter Cable-style bushing connection was fragile, the nut loosend, it fell apart during use, and broke. They gave me a refund. Conceptually, the product has merit, but its fragility leaves much to be desired.
I devised a simple, cheap, easy to fabricate, and much stouter and safer (in my opinion) router attachment that makes cleanup a non-issue.
To make your own, you will need:
(1) router subbase fabricated to fit your router. I used a circle of ¼” MDF.
(2) 4” sewer and drain end caps.
(1) short length of 4” O.D. sewer and drain pipe. I used approximately 6” of ASTM 3034 (Schedule 35).
(1) 2½ ” O.D. flanged inlet. I found this at Woodcraft (Item 128684)
Start by marking the centers of the router subbase and the two end caps. I sanded off the raised lettering of the end caps. Extend the center line of one of the end caps over the edges. This helps keep the end cap centered on the router subbase.
I used double-stick tape to hold the end cap to the subbase, and then used a 1½” forstner bit to drill a centered hole. I chose this size of bit so that the hole was larger than the diameter of my 1⅛” pattern bit.
I fastened the end cap to the subbase by using countersunk flathead screws and nylon-insert lock nuts. The placement of the flathead screws should be in the front half of the end cap. The back half of the end cap will be removed.
Next, remove the end cap from the subbase, and attach the end cap to the length of 4" sewer and drain. I fastened the endcap to the pipe by using screws and nylon lock nuts. I didn't have PVC cement on hand, but I probably still would use mechanical fasteners just to feel safer.
Extend the centering lines on the sides of the end cap down the sides of the pipe approximately 3½". I chose that length to accomodate the longest pattern bit I own (2½” long), with an extra margin. Then use a hacksaw, bandsaw, or PVC handsaw to remove the back half.
Center the 2½” flanged inlet on the other end cap, and fasten the flanged inlet by using machine screws and nylon lock nuts. I marked the center of the endcap by drilling a small hole through the end cap.
I used a flycutter (or whatever term you know it as) to drill a 2½” center hole in the end cap. I screwed the endcap to a piece of scrap plywood, centered the flycutter bit to the hole I marked previously, and drilled the hole. The 2¼” O.D. end of a Shop Vac hose fits snugly and securely into the 2½” flanged inlet.
I designed the attachment so that most of the bit was surrounded by the pipe, and so that the Shop Vac hose would hang straight down, out of the way of my feet.
How well does it work? This photo shows my shop floor before I flush trimmed 5' of 8/4 poplar.
These photos show my shop floor, and the amount of dust and chips I could sweep up with a bench brush that the apparatus failed to capture. I protest a little at the result, because I noticed a few specks of oak that shouldn't count in the total.
A pattern bit and effective dust collection can help you edge joint tight joints in thick, heavy stock.
Thanks for looking and for your patience waiting for details.
My 6” benchtop jointer is ill-suited for edge jointing heavy or long stock, so I often use a pattern bit and straight edge to accomplish the task. Unfortunately, cleanup of the dust and chips makes doing so a chore. I had received as a gift the Rockler edge routing dust collection attachment (mentioned in Rich P's thread), but I had little success with using it. The ABS neck of the Porter Cable-style bushing connection was fragile, the nut loosend, it fell apart during use, and broke. They gave me a refund. Conceptually, the product has merit, but its fragility leaves much to be desired.
I devised a simple, cheap, easy to fabricate, and much stouter and safer (in my opinion) router attachment that makes cleanup a non-issue.
To make your own, you will need:
(1) router subbase fabricated to fit your router. I used a circle of ¼” MDF.
(2) 4” sewer and drain end caps.
(1) short length of 4” O.D. sewer and drain pipe. I used approximately 6” of ASTM 3034 (Schedule 35).
(1) 2½ ” O.D. flanged inlet. I found this at Woodcraft (Item 128684)
Start by marking the centers of the router subbase and the two end caps. I sanded off the raised lettering of the end caps. Extend the center line of one of the end caps over the edges. This helps keep the end cap centered on the router subbase.
I used double-stick tape to hold the end cap to the subbase, and then used a 1½” forstner bit to drill a centered hole. I chose this size of bit so that the hole was larger than the diameter of my 1⅛” pattern bit.
I fastened the end cap to the subbase by using countersunk flathead screws and nylon-insert lock nuts. The placement of the flathead screws should be in the front half of the end cap. The back half of the end cap will be removed.
Next, remove the end cap from the subbase, and attach the end cap to the length of 4" sewer and drain. I fastened the endcap to the pipe by using screws and nylon lock nuts. I didn't have PVC cement on hand, but I probably still would use mechanical fasteners just to feel safer.
Extend the centering lines on the sides of the end cap down the sides of the pipe approximately 3½". I chose that length to accomodate the longest pattern bit I own (2½” long), with an extra margin. Then use a hacksaw, bandsaw, or PVC handsaw to remove the back half.
Center the 2½” flanged inlet on the other end cap, and fasten the flanged inlet by using machine screws and nylon lock nuts. I marked the center of the endcap by drilling a small hole through the end cap.
I used a flycutter (or whatever term you know it as) to drill a 2½” center hole in the end cap. I screwed the endcap to a piece of scrap plywood, centered the flycutter bit to the hole I marked previously, and drilled the hole. The 2¼” O.D. end of a Shop Vac hose fits snugly and securely into the 2½” flanged inlet.
I designed the attachment so that most of the bit was surrounded by the pipe, and so that the Shop Vac hose would hang straight down, out of the way of my feet.
How well does it work? This photo shows my shop floor before I flush trimmed 5' of 8/4 poplar.
These photos show my shop floor, and the amount of dust and chips I could sweep up with a bench brush that the apparatus failed to capture. I protest a little at the result, because I noticed a few specks of oak that shouldn't count in the total.
A pattern bit and effective dust collection can help you edge joint tight joints in thick, heavy stock.
Thanks for looking and for your patience waiting for details.
)
Comment