Assembly Table Surface Choices

[fastfoodkills]

Hi Everyone,

I'm finally building an all-purpose assembly table to complement a simple ww bench I put together over the summer. I'm planning on using it for an outfeed instead of the ww bench I'm using now while at the same time serving as a model building table and/or ww project assembly table. Was wondering if anyone has had experience with laundry board(?) as a work surface? This is the product sold at the big box stores which appears to be a tempered hardboard (masonite) with a smooth white coating on one side. I would definitely prefer a light surface - especially for those tiny ship model parts! I'm also considering the possibility of a formica if I can find it cheap enough - will need about a 4ft x 6ft size. BTW - this will need to be a relatively thin top, say up to 1/4" as it will be affixed to a torsion box. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom N.

Saugus, CA

[cabinetman]

My choice would be a Formica type laminate (could be any brand), which can be laminated to any suitable substrate. It comes in two common thicknesses. For vertical applications, 1/32", also called V32, and 1/16" for horizontal uses, such as countertops.

The 1/32" is less per sq.ft., and may get you by for light use, but does not have the same impact resistance as the 1/16".
.

[drumpriest]

Mine is 3/4" mdf over a torsion grid of 1/2" mdf over a bottom of 3/4" mdf, was cheap and has stayed nice and flat for several years. I sealed the top and wax it periodically. Now are you talking about something over top of that? To protect the MDF? If so then Cabinetman's idea sounds good to me too, laminate over top will make it easy to care for, though hardboard on top has been promoted by some people because it's easily replaceable.

With just waxing I've not had any issues with glue spillage, it doesn't adhere so I can just pop it off with a scrap of wood where it dried.

The weight of the 3/4" top isn't a bad thing, as it creates enough strength to span the grid spacing without flexing, and the overall weight of the table makes it more stable.

[fastfoodkills]

Drumpriest, I've used a similar approach for the torsion box table top. MDF grid and MDF top and bottom, but was also looking for something that's sacrificial. When model building (even a small project), I tend to make as big of a mess as ww - spilled enamel paints, thinner splashes, airbrush overspray, etc.

Cabinetman, I like the idea of the 1/16 Formica, but do you know if it can take a few spills of oil based products and glues and still clean up ok? If it get's banged up, I would imagine it could be replaced as well.

[dbhost]

I've seen that "Laundry Board" which yeah, looks like tempered hardboard that is colored bright white. I have gone to using Tempered Hardboard with my shop builds due to the slick, even surface...

The Laundryboard is a LOT more expensive around here at the only big box that I have seen it at (Lowes), running about $40.00 for a 4x8 sheet vs. $24.00 for a 4x8 sheet of regular tempered hardboard. I don't suspect they sell much...

If you need the light color, I would probably go with a formica type laminate...

And maybe it is overkill, but I know for me, I want something to protect the MDF. Specifically from me being dumb and setting a can of Iced Tea on it. (I like that Arizona Green Tea... probably not a good thing...)

[JR]

I just put a new top on my bench, using 1/4" tempered harboard. I found some stuff at HD that was light brown, matching the MDF on my other bench.

The design I use expects that the hardboard will be affixed with carpet tape. I have not had good succes with that, though, and have had to use brads to hold it down.

JR

[poolhound]

I have been agonizing over what to do for my assemby table/utility bench. I am going for the dual beam torsion box approach that was described in a recent FWW article. Its 2 plywood torsion boxes capped on one side with a melamine/laminate (mdf or particleboard) and the other with the same material but then topped with a layer of 1/2" homasote. One laminate side works for glue ups etc and the other for general work as the homasote provides a non marring surface. The advantage of the two beams (in theory) is that you can use them either singly or together to make various surface areas. Mine will be 6' long and I havent decide on the exact width yet but am thinking 1'. They will span 2 leveled saw horses and this will give me the flexibility to have anything from 1'-4' wide surfaces.

I literally just got back from picking up some Heavy duty laminated boards that I managed to get from a local super Kmart that was getting rid of their fixtures. 4 14"x7' boards for $20.

In a perfect world I would love a large fixed assy table but I have looked at all the options and I just dont have the space. Not sure how my strategy will work out but I will report back and let you folks know.

[pelligrini]

I've used that product many times if it is the same thing that has also been sold as 'White Bathroom Wallboard". It's a pretty durable surface, cleans very easily. It is fairly slick too. I made the base for a sawboard out of a 6' strip.

We used to use it to cover the drafting tables & layout tables in the Architectural Studios in college. A lot of model building got done on those surfaces too. It doesn't take scoring with an xacto blade very well. It was much cheaper than those mayline drawing mats.

We covered a bunch of doors with it for workstations & layout tables at our old architecture office.

I've also used it for dry-erase & wet-erase boards.

[fastfoodkills]

I'll have to double check the product description of the white sheet - it was at Lowes and remember it being relatively thin say 1/8 or 3/16 tempered hardboard with a real slick enameled looking surface. This stuff was cheap too probably $11-15 for a 4x8 sheet.

I'm still tempted to go the formica route if I can find a good deal (perhaps a partial sheet), but so far my local lumber yard wants $83.00 (BORG wanted $117) for the 1/16 stuff but that will kill my budget for the drawer hardware.

[fastfoodkills]

Getting Warmer...

Just got off the phone with Lowes and they claim to have a laminate in 4x8 sheets for $47.00 @ 1/8 thick. This is closer to my price range so I'll have to check on the quality.

[stoli]

I am using this for my bench right now. I would skip it if I had to do it over again. Glue sticks to this surface, and you will damage the surface if you try to scrape it off. However, it is cheap to replace -- the only problem is getting the big board home without a pickup.

-=[doug]=-

[cabinetman]

Drumpriest, I've used a similar approach for the torsion box table top. MDF grid and MDF top and bottom, but was also looking for something that's sacrificial. When model building (even a small project), I tend to make as big of a mess as ww - spilled enamel paints, thinner splashes, airbrush overspray, etc.

Cabinetman, I like the idea of the 1/16 Formica, but do you know if it can take a few spills of oil based products and glues and still clean up ok? If it get's banged up, I would imagine it could be replaced as well.

Just about any solvent can be used on mica laminate. Any oil base, lacquer, or water based products can be removed, even if cured.

I don't wax surfaces that come into contact with wood. Sometimes a slight surface resistance keeps stuff from sliding off into that short but agonizing fall to the floor.

Just got off the phone with Lowes and they claim to have a laminate in 4x8 sheets for $47.00 @ 1/8 thick. This is closer to my price range so I'll have to check on the quality.

The price sounds OK, but if the sheet is 1/8" thick it's likely not plastic laminate. Maybe you misunderstood them or made a typo.
.

[OldChipper]

Try to find a laminate supplier in your area! Not HD or Lowes! They often get in damaged sheets. I just got a 5' x 10' sheet of gloss white for $10.00. It had a crack across one end, but 9' of it was perfect! Just a thought! Actually he always tells me to just take it for free, that the insurance has paid for it, but I figure the 10 will help him remember me next time I need something. It has worked so far!!!

[fastfoodkills]

My Clumsiness Paid Off for Once!

Stopped by Lowes a bit ago to check on the laminate they had in stock which was tucked away behind the appliance section at the back of the store and it was indeed 1/16th inch thick/4x8 and the Formica brand. For what I'll be using it for, this thickness seems good enough. While helping the Lowes clerk lift a sheet, I must have caught the corner of the rack and put a nice 1ft. crack in it The fellow was very cool about it and offered to let me take it for $30.00, marked down from about $47 or so. I would have gladly paid full price, but I couldn't refuse. I will have to say, I've gotten some outstanding customer service at the branch here in Saugus, CA. I'd like to thank everyone for sharing their ideas on the work surface and can't wait to finish this project. BTW: water based contact cement is about 36-40 bucks a gallon in SoCal - is it the same out of state? Just curious...

[fastfoodkills]

Old Chipper - that's a serious score at $10- and a great idea. I will keep that in mind in the future when it's time to do the kitchen and shop surfaces. I'll bet this stuff is great for a router table surface. Again, I appreciate the advice from everyone.