Planning for electrical needs.

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  • dbhost
    Slow and steady
    • Apr 2008
    • 9245
    • League City, Texas
    • Ryobi BT3100

    Planning for electrical needs.

    I am dredging up this same old tired theme mostly to bounce ideas off you folks to make sure I am on the right track here as I continue to plan my shop updates / buildup. Maybe I am being OCD here, but it seems I would want to be prepared instead of surprised...

    As you may or may not know, I am taking a wild stab at getting approval for a larger than "should" be by my covenants & restrictions so that I can have a dedicated outbuilding that functions solely as a workshop. Space won't be overwhelmingly large, but at 12x16 it should be adequate enough for most tasks, larger items like sheet goods can be handled out on the deck...

    The electrical circuits are really what I am rambling on about here, so long winded story run short, here we go with the circuits I think I need, and what I need them for.

    Circuit #1. Air Conditioning / heat. This should get its own circuit, even though the Window unit isn't that big, nor is the radiator, neither of them are particularly small energy consumers either, and should NOT be on a circuit with my other stuff, POSSIBLY I could share the circuit with lighting, as long as the switch for the lights doesn't cut off the radiator...

    Circuit #2. If not shared with circuit #1. Lighting. It's probably overkill, but I fully intend to hang 4 4 foot dual tube flourescent lights from the ceiling swamping this shed with light. I also want a switched outlet approximately centered on each side wall, and the back wall, possibly orange or yellow color to indicate it is different. This will be for LIGHTING ONLY...

    Circuit #3. This is a TINY space, and I will only operate 1 major tool at a time (DC not included). This should be a farily heavy circuit, run to outlets near every major machine. I don't want to have to use extension cords anywhere inside the shed.

    Circuit #4. Dust collection. IF I can manage to get the Delta 50-760, if I understand right it is wireable for 220v single phase, and that is what I want the circuit for. Is there a way to split this circuit and provide a 110V leg for the shop vac? Basically I want to be able to run the DC, AND the shop vac along with the lights, heat, and table saw etc... at the same time.

    So question is... I know I would need a dedicated subpanel in the shed / shop, but what do I need to do to get power to it, and who would do that? I would assume I would need to bring higher amperage service to the house, is that right? How do I go about that? And what size circuits should each circuit be?
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  • pelligrini
    Veteran Member
    • Apr 2007
    • 4217
    • Fort Worth, TX
    • Craftsman 21829

    #2
    You probably don't need a bigger service.

    You probably could do the panel yourself. Allthough, you aren't supposed to. By law it, and your shed, are supposed to be inspected. Your local jurisdiction my have adopted some other code, but Texas on a whole has adopted the International Codes unless your local govt says different. The IRC addresses accessory buildings over 120 sq ft.

    Do you have any open breaker slots in your panel? A 40 to 60 amp 220v to your new shop subpanel would probably be way more than enough. You can get a decent subpanel kit that will include a bunch of breakers. Probably more than you'll need. I think the 125 amp GE panel kit I bought was around $50 at the borg. Even with a 40 amp 220v breaker you'd have 80 amps out there for 110.

    I did 6 20amp circuits in my shed from the subpanel. A dedidcated AC, one for lights & stereo, the others were spread around. I already had a roll of 12GA wire.
    Erik

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    • dbhost
      Slow and steady
      • Apr 2008
      • 9245
      • League City, Texas
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #3
      Originally posted by pelligrini
      You probably don't need a bigger service.

      You probably could do the panel yourself. Allthough, you aren't supposed to. By law it, and your shed, are supposed to be inspected. Your local jurisdiction my have adopted some other code, but Texas on a whole has adopted the International Codes unless your local govt says different. The IRC addresses accessory buildings over 120 sq ft.

      Do you have any open breaker slots in your panel? A 40 to 60 amp 220v to your new shop subpanel would probably be way more than enough. You can get a decent subpanel kit that will include a bunch of breakers. Probably more than you'll need. I think the 125 amp GE panel kit I bought was around $50 at the borg. Even with a 40 amp 220v breaker you'd have 80 amps out there for 110.

      I did 6 20amp circuits in my shed from the subpanel. A dedidcated AC, one for lights & stereo, the others were spread around. I already had a roll of 12GA wire.
      Yeah, I've got plenty of open slots...

      Wanna come down to the bay area and help me put it up when I get it framed in? One of the few things I am not all that enthused about DIY is electrical... I'd really rather keep the straight hair straight and the curly hair curly if you know what I mean...
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      • JR
        The Full Monte
        • Feb 2004
        • 5633
        • Eugene, OR
        • BT3000

        #4
        I'd recommend getting an electrician to deal with installing and wiring a subpanel in the shop. Since it's a remote building there's probably enough there to get his interest. The remainder should be pretty straightforward.

        JR
        JR

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        • LCHIEN
          Internet Fact Checker
          • Dec 2002
          • 21045
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #5
          advice:
          4 dual 4ft fuorescent fixtures only needs about 3 amps, I'd not give it's own circuit unless you are paranoid about blowing a breaker and being the in the dark-its hardly ever that dark in Houston... You can always put a safety light on another circuit or split two fixtures each on two circuits with other stuff. You need a convenience circuit for the air cleaner, lighting, drill chargers, radio, fridge (for the beer, dummy) that will also draw just a couple of amps. now depends on what the max big tool will draw.

          I would not try to operate split 110 and 220 off one circuit. use it for either 110 or 220 but no both, just doesn't seem like a good idea to me.

          Where's the air compressor circuit?

          more than likely your house panel carries wya more than enough amps to do your shed without a bigger service.
          Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-23-2009, 06:20 PM.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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          • master53yoda
            Established Member
            • Oct 2008
            • 456
            • Spokane Washington
            • bt 3000 2 of them and a shopsmith ( but not for the tablesaw part)

            #6
            Will the building be a permanent or temporary structure. The wiring from the house to the building is handled differently.

            If it is a temporary structure you must set disconnect panel on a post and flex from that panel to the breaker box inside the structure. If it is permanent structure you can go straight to the breaker box in the structure.

            a 30 amp 240 VAC #10 3 conductor with ground wire would provide sufficient power for a single worker shop. If you want extra power for latter on I would go with a 40 amp 240vac #8 3 conductor with ground wire.

            If you pull permits in most states you can do the work yourself and have it inspected. The inspectors though typically will not answer questions but will require that all the work be done at the same level that a professional electrician would do it, or higher because they look harder at homeowner work.

            In my shop I ran a 60 amp circuit the main reason was a 230 amp arc welder not woodworking equipment.

            Many people think that you cant run more breakers then the main breaker is in size but that is not the case. If you add the breakers in you house panel together they will add up to more then the service is rated for. Each breaker is sized for the max that the wiring it feeds can handle. the circuits are almost never loaded to max.

            Do not run 110 and 240 off of the same branch circuit.

            The house service would not need to be changed unless it is fuse panel instead of breakers, then I would have it inspected prior to any additional electrical work.
            Last edited by master53yoda; 01-23-2009, 06:23 PM.
            Art

            If you don't want to know, Don't ask

            If I could come back as anyone one in history, It would be the man I could have been and wasn't....

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            • jackellis
              Veteran Member
              • Nov 2003
              • 2638
              • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
              • BT3100

              #7
              If you ever think you're going to buy another 220v stationary tool (jointer, planer, saw), run a second 220 circuit now while it's relatively easy. You can leave it disconnected at the panel and terminated in a box inside the shop. Otherwise, I think you have the right number of circuits doing the right things. I don't know anything about splitting a 220v circuit for 110 but it sounds like a bad idea.

              Comment

              • dbhost
                Slow and steady
                • Apr 2008
                • 9245
                • League City, Texas
                • Ryobi BT3100

                #8
                Originally posted by LCHIEN

                Where's the air compressor circuit?

                more than likely your house panel carries wya more than enough amps to do your shed without a bigger service.
                Air comrpessor, when I get one, is going into the garage... I will wheel it out and run it off the house power by the deck.. My primary use for a comrpessor is automotive anyway... Air hammers, impact wrenches and the like...
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