For those using Shop Vac based dust collection.

[dbhost]

Or other wet / dry vac, not just Shop Vac brand...

#1. Are you plumbed with blast gates, or do you go direct to the machine in use?
#2. If you are plumbed. How? Can you post pics?

As most of you know, I am currently using the Shop Vac brand Sawdust Collection system with blast gates etc... But I am less than enthused about the ID of the tubing which is a mere 1-7/8" (Thanks Phil Thien for asking me what size it was and making me measure it!). Soooo I figure, the shop vac is designed to pull best with a 2.5" ID right?

My thought process is thus...

Replace the Shop Vac Dust Collection system with...

#1. Regular 2.5" blast gates such as the ones from Rockler, Peachtree, or most likely some other vendors...

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details

#2. That blast gate SHOULD just slip into a 2.5" PVC Sch 40 coupler with a wrap or two of duct tape. So on it goes, to a friction fit (no glue!) 2.5" sch 40 PVC plumbing system, that would eliminate any 90 degreee bends aside from the Wyes that lead to the blast gates.

#3. using a round rasp, chamfer all of the edges of the PVC so that a smooth profile is presented to the air stream.

This process SHOULD provide a little greater than 20% improvement in duct size. I would assume, correctly or not, that a corresponding improvement in CFM should result from the larger ID, as well as eliminating the 90 degree bends...

Am I on the right track? Has anyone else here done anything like this, and did it work well?

Not that my system isn't working well now, I just want it to work BETTER...

I am also wondering, has anyone found an affordable source for clear 2.5" plastic pipe and fittings?

[LarryG]

You're not going to gain as much as you hope, I don't think. Shop vac hoses are typically advertised as 2-1/2", but the male couplers on the hose ends are 2-1/4" OD. That makes the ID perhaps 2-1/8" at most.

This old thread describes the system I had serving one portion of my previous, smaller shop. I had my 2HP HF DC serving the major tools but there was no physical way to plumb some of the benchtop tools and my handheld power tools to it. So I put in this shop-vac-powered auxiliary system for those. It worked well, but was essentially what you already have. The tubing was nominally 2" but probably measured just about the same 1-7/8" inside as yours.

[dbhost]

You hit on something I was thinking... The ID because of the taper on the hose ends... Actually I think it might just be right at 2" because I think the wall size is 1/8", (1/8" + 1/8" = 1/4"). That additional 1/8" to the nominal tube size I am running isn't enough of a loss to worry about...

The only tools I have that the shop vac setup seems inadequate for are...

#1. The 3 hookups on the table saw.
#2. The CMS, but then again, I think a giant industrial 6" cyclone system might JUST BARELY keep up with a CMS.
#3. Router table / freehand routing. I haven't rigged DC to these yet... That is coming soon though. My biggest concerns there are doing dovetails with the jig on the workbench, which throws an AMAZING amount of chips around, and using my big MLCS molding bits.... Which I do a LOT of on the TS... I need to re-rig the shop built fence DC that came with my saw to something I can actually use... Previous owner had a HF DC and all 4" pipe. I am having to adapt to my shop vac based setup for now...
#4. Ridgid Sander. I have seen these set up with the regular HF DC necked down and connected to the port on the back with WORSE DC performance. The problem isn't the DC, it's the port on the machine...

[steve-norrell]

I am using ShopVac's largest unit (20 gallon) and dust collection kits such as this one from Woodcraft (other vendors offer similar kits).

http://www.woodcraft.com/product.asp...&FamilyID=3945

I use the smooth-walled tubes as much as possible to minimize resistance and the same kind of blast gates shown in your post to regulate flow to only one tool at a time. I use it for the BT3100, a router table, the Ridgid Oscillating sander, and a DW735 planer.

Collection is satisfactory and adequate, but certainly not as good as it would be if I had a real DC (which I will probably get as soon as I save enough money from my allowance).

I have also found it important to use "drywall" rated bags to contain the very fine dust produced from MDF and when sanding.

Good luck, Steve

[Larrysch]

I am using the same thing that Steve is using with a blast gate at each machine. Works great for me. If you look against the wall in the photo you can see how it is hooked up to my machines and the blast gates.

[dbhost]

I am using the same thing that Steve is using with a blast gate at each machine. Works great for me. If you look against the wall in the photo you can see how it is hooked up to my machines and the blast gates.

Hey Larry,

I've seen your shop pics now for I guess a year at the other site... I always wondered. Do you have someone that comes in and cleans up for your photo shoots? That is ALMOST as neat & tidy as Rod Kriby's shop...

Actually, your shop was one of the ones that gave me the idea that you could use a shop vac for dust collection... so I guess you are to blame

Steve, I would think you have seen my DC pics by now. I think the hoses are too long, and have been shortening them up... Getting the ribbed stuff down to a minimum. As much as possible as smooth as possible, with as few bends as possible. So far there is a noticable improvement in suction. DC off the router fence, and CMS is awful, but most everything else is top notch...

[cgallery]

DC off the router fence, and CMS is awful, but most everything else is top notch...

If you can, add a down-draft box to the router and connect your shop vac there. I leave the hose there for edge routing and non-through routing in the middle of boards.

And it had the added benefit of quieting the router motor.

[dbhost]

If you can, add a down-draft box to the router and connect your shop vac there. I leave the hose there for edge routing and non-through routing in the middle of boards.

And it had the added benefit of quieting the router motor.

Down draft box? Splain por favor...

[cgallery]

Down draft box? Splain por favor...

Like the one on this page:

http://www.jointech.com/routertops_accessories.htm

I made mine out of plywood. It does have the downside of pulling debris PAST the router. But there was a post at sawmillcreek where a guy even figured that out by adding a cutout that diverted debris to the side of the box.

I don't know how well this would work with a DC, as the DC may not be able to handle the resistance. But with my SV it works great.