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cutting acute angles safely

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  • #16
    Originally posted by LarryG View Post
    Jon said he needed angles less than 30deg, but he didn't say how much less (and he didn't say how wide, either).
    angles will be approx 20, widths up to 3" max.
    Jon

    Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
    ________________________________

    We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
    techzibits.com

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    • #17
      Originally posted by LCHIEN View Post
      In my opinion the jig that Shoottx suggests can be made safer.
      Yup, The question of hold down is important.

      Since this jig was for a relatively short run, and since the boards I cut were longer than 8" my hold down fingers were safely away from the blade.

      If You are going to do a lot of cuts, short cuts or keep the jig for awhile upgrading the hold down would be important.

      I have not decided whether to keep this jig or just take it apart and throw the parts back in the scrap pile. If I keep it I will make the angle adjustable and add hold down capability.
      Often in error - Never in doubt

      Mike

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      • #18
        Isn't the star two equilateral triangles?
        Erik

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        • #19
          Originally posted by LCHIEN View Post
          In my opinion the jig that Shoottx suggests can be made safer.
          The workpiece is pushed forward by the lip at the bottom.
          The scary part is either letting the workpiece go with no hold down pressure or using your hand within a couple of inches of the blade.
          Here's how you make it safer:
          Put a piece of rectangular plywood under that jig, attached to the bottom of the arms. It should be as long as the jig and a tad wider than the fence to blade width.
          One edge should be against the fence and flush with the right arm.
          When you cut, the plywood will be trimmed at the saw blade of course. But the dangerous part of holding the workpiece as you slide it within inches of the blade can then be accomplished with a pair of hold down clamps mounted to the arm of the jig adjacent to the workpiece. You'll have to raise the blade the extra height of the thickness of the plywood.

          Excellent point I was going to use hold downs as I value my fingers and would rather not have to recut due to movement.
          Jon

          Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
          ________________________________

          We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
          techzibits.com

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          • #20
            Originally posted by pelligrini View Post
            Isn't the star two equilateral triangles?
            Technically yes, but such "artistic license" has been employed many times in all kinds of uses. They key is to keep the star symetrical, although I have seen examples of jewelry where it isnt.
            Jon

            Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
            ________________________________

            We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
            techzibits.com

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            • #21
              so here's another way to do acute angles, I drew this up in 2004, I just found in my archives.

              Probably OK for shorter pieces,not for 6' long in which it would be better to use the rip fence.
              Attached Files
              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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              • #22
                Thanks for all the ideas. Here is Jon's patented "acute angle jig." The angle fence is adjustable and lets me set angles from about 13- 41 degrees.

                Watch out for this in Rockler or HF sometime soon
                Attached Files
                Jon

                Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
                ________________________________

                We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
                techzibits.com

                Comment

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