Outlet or no outlet

[ryan.s]

So I'm finally updating the lighting in the shop. Thanks to all the great info found on this forum I'm installing 8 4' fluorescent two bulb fixtures in my 18 X 20 shop. I've done the layout and spacing but I'm kinda stuck on how to power these lights. I have 8' drywalled ceilings and the fixtures are the cheapo $9 fixtures from walmart with reflectors. The bulbs are the daylight t8 bulbs. I think the bulbs cost about the same as the fixtures. Anyhow I initially was planning to add 8 new outlets in the ceiling, 1 for each fixture so that if any of the fixtures fail it would be easy to replace. Then I got to thinking it might not be worth the effort to add the outlets but instead cut the cords and run the wire into the ceiling through a hole and connect them directly to the circuit. It'll be a cleaner look but the negative would be that it would take more time to change out the fixture if needed. So I'm throwing this out there to get some opinions. The fixture will be hanging about 2 inches from the surface of the ceiling to allow for some ventilation.

[LarryG]

I have a similar lighting system, using what might well be the same Wal-Mart fixtures. In my shop the fixtures just plug straight into a number of ceiling-mounted outlets. The cords are, I guess, a little untidy-looking; but I tucked them up atop the fixtures so they don't hang down and they're not too bad. All in all it doesn't bother me.

Hard-wiring a standard appliance cord into a junction box might not meet code, if that matters. (I have no idea whether it does or doesn't, just saying that it would be a question you might want to get answered.)

One suggestion ... with eight fixtures total, you might want to wire them to two different circuits, so that if one breaker trips for any reason you'll still have light. You might also be able to turn on only one bank at a time, if you don't need the full level of illumination at times.

[Uncle Cracker]

I wouldn't be too concerned about having to replace the entire light fixture any time soon. If anything goes wrong with one, it won't be with the housing, but with one of only a few parts (ballast, pin socket, etc.), all of which are easily replaceable without changing the whole fixture. You might think about buying an extra fixture now, so you will have a ready source of spare parts.

[docrowan]

I chose to install outlets rather than hard wire my fixtures in. I did this for flexibility. With the extra outlet I can plug in a clamp light for extra task lighting when needed. I set all lighting on a separate 15 amp circuit.

[os1kne]

I'll cast another vote for outlets.

[slieber967]

ceiling outlets

i wired outlets in the ceiling in my garage. the ul inspector insisted that the cords were factory wired and plugged in. wiring into a juction box is not code. the outlets are gfi protected and very handy. the cords going to the ceiling seem to stay out of the way and are harder to trip over.
one vote for ceiling outlets



kc
slieber967@aol.com

[LCHIEN]

I did ceiling outlets for most of the reasons mentioned by prev. posters.

[George Cole]

Orginal cords supplied with the fixtures are no code....must remove the cords and rewire with 12/3 or 12/2 with ground..depends where you live and local codes...I used j-boxes and powered thru a central swith for three lights.

By the way..those ballast cost about the same as the light assys.

George
gcole55@bellsouth.net



QUOTE=slieber967;339390]i wired outlets in the ceiling in my garage. the ul inspector insisted that the cords were factory wired and plugged in. wiring into a juction box is not code. the outlets are gfi protected and very handy. the cords going to the ceiling seem to stay out of the way and are harder to trip over.
one vote for ceiling outlets



kc
slieber967@aol.com[/QUOTE]

[ryan.s]

Okay I'm glad I asked. I guess I'll be putting in some outlets this weekend. Thanks guys for chiming in.

[iceman61]

To me, Outlet or no outlet would depend on your ceiling height & what you do in your shop. With outlets you’re going to have to hang those lights by a chain. Fixture thickness of 6” & hanging down 6” to give access to the receptacle gives an 8’ shop ceiling 7’ of clearance. You will need to be careful flipping boards & sheet goods around. 8 4' fluorescent two bulb fixtures in a 18 X 20 shop doesn’t give you much ceiling room to maneuver with a 8’ ceiling.

My fixtures are wired into ceiling boxes & attached to the ceiling. Even with a 9’ ceiling I still have to be careful at times or I will hit the fixture. Just something for you to think about.

There are definite positives & negatives either way you install. I’m pretty sure if you install receptacles, code will dictate that every receptacle will have to be GFI protected. The reason being is that in a shop or garage, anyone can plug in an extension cord & pull it outside with the possibility of it getting wet. It is this way because of worse case scenario of the common dumb butt.

[Tom Slick]

Where would the connections be made if you ran the wire into the ceiling?
I believe that by code you'd be required to have a J box at any penetration through the drywall, you'd then have to use a plate and a romex clamp. that would be just about as much work as adding the receptical. I don't believe that permanent light fixtures require a GCFI receptical, yet. the 2008 NEC just changed to require a GCFI on appliances such as washers and freezers, it was not required previously.

[rcp612]

Around here the fixture must be mounted to the ceiling to be hard-wired. Hanging fixtures must be plugged into a ceiling mounted outlet. If the chain, or whatever they are suspended from breaks, it will unplug itself. Supposedly.

[LCHIEN]

Orginal cords supplied with the fixtures are no code....must remove the cords and rewire with 12/3 or 12/2 with ground..depends where you live and local codes...I used j-boxes and powered thru a central swith for three lights.

By the way..those ballast cost about the same as the light assys.

George
gcole55@bellsouth.net

Actually I do now remember having read that somewhere.
That permanently installed lighting should be directly wired, no plugs, according to the NEC.

I guess the ambiguity is, if it hangs on S-hooks and chains from the ceiling and it plugs into outlets in the ceiling, it is therefore temporary and not permanent?

I remember wrestling with that question and deciding if it came time to sell my house, and have it inspected, i would unplug the lights and take them down.

[steve-norrell]

When we remodeled the ceiling lights in the workshop / garage were fixed to the ceiling and hard wired. Looked great at first, but, as always seems to be the case, the tools ended up somewhere other than the best lighted spots.

Post-remodel considerations show that the flexibility of "hang-and-plug" lighting would have been better.

Regards, Steve

[spratone]

I wouldn't like all the outlets in the ceiling... I actually connected mine from the existing light box with ROMEX and out to all the other lights (3) so that they all come on with one switch. I just poked a hole in the drywall ran the romex through it into the light that I mounted to the joists. Connected it with wire nuts to the internal wiring directly per code.