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On my recent shop tour thread there were a couple of requests for more detail on building some of the shop cabinets that fill my shop. I finally have a new computer and access to some photos again, so here goes. Apologies if this is too lengthy…
I started learning cabinet making 20 years ago. Like everyone else, I bought a book on cabinet making. After reading the book and seeing how the writer went about building his designs, I decided it was way too complicated for me, and started to simplifying the process to better suit my tastes. I just wanted strong, simple shop cabinets, ones that could be sketched out and built in a weekend.
My shop is filled with projects that mostly were started on Friday evening after work, and put into use that Sunday. My ideas will not suit everyone, so keep in mind that you can change anything you like. I use plywood for face frames for shop cabinets. For office furniture and other house projects solid oak is used for the face frames.
I don’t use mdf for construction, but let’s not start a war here. If you like it, fine. I just think it's too heavy, too weak, I can’t lift a sheet easily, I hate the dust, and don’t like the way it holds fasteners. I started out building cabinets out of 3/4” BC plywood, and ended up building every project out of oak ply. I just like the lack of voids, the looks, and the way it takes a simple finish. It also seems to take fasteners well. I do occasionally use mdf for workbench tops if it is doubled two layers thick, like shown in the photos below.
My first cabinet was built in the “European” style. That is to say that it had no face frames. The sides bowed and the drawers fell out of their tracks. Of course the design was bad and it was my fault. Even so, I have only built face frame cabinets since then. The very simple structure is extremely strong and light until the top is added. I use a 16 gage nail gun with 1.25 -2” nails, and fill the holes with Famowood putty. The only other fasteners used are 1/4" crown x 3/4" long staples to hold the 1/4" plywood back on.
The cabinet shown below has a minimum of parts, uses a minimum of wood, and goes together very fast. Some of the cabinets shown in the shop tour thread have 500 or more pounds on them, and all are built the same way. I no longer build shelves/doors below the height of the workbench top. Doors and shelves at eye level are fine, but below the top of workbench height holds only drawers. I find that drawers hold twice as much as shelves, and they are easier to find things in. It’s just a personal preference.
The construction photos are self explanatory. Just notice the small blocks already mounted to the face frames to center the center drawer supports. Additional small blocks are in place to help hold the horizontal back boards. You can build these cabinets any size you choose, and no drawings are necessary. I use a simple sketch to write sizes on, and start cutting out the parts.
The first photo shows a finished cabinet, and it does not look too simple to build until you see just the basic parts assembled.
The back of the cabinet is flush, with small notches in the middle so the horizontal boards can be flat. The plywood face frame parts are added to the front, and then the back is stapled in place flush to the edges and top and bottom. Adding the precut back will square everything up. Stand the cabinet up, use a carpenter square to see that the sides are square to the back before all the glue joints dry.
I started learning cabinet making 20 years ago. Like everyone else, I bought a book on cabinet making. After reading the book and seeing how the writer went about building his designs, I decided it was way too complicated for me, and started to simplifying the process to better suit my tastes. I just wanted strong, simple shop cabinets, ones that could be sketched out and built in a weekend.
My shop is filled with projects that mostly were started on Friday evening after work, and put into use that Sunday. My ideas will not suit everyone, so keep in mind that you can change anything you like. I use plywood for face frames for shop cabinets. For office furniture and other house projects solid oak is used for the face frames.
I don’t use mdf for construction, but let’s not start a war here. If you like it, fine. I just think it's too heavy, too weak, I can’t lift a sheet easily, I hate the dust, and don’t like the way it holds fasteners. I started out building cabinets out of 3/4” BC plywood, and ended up building every project out of oak ply. I just like the lack of voids, the looks, and the way it takes a simple finish. It also seems to take fasteners well. I do occasionally use mdf for workbench tops if it is doubled two layers thick, like shown in the photos below.
My first cabinet was built in the “European” style. That is to say that it had no face frames. The sides bowed and the drawers fell out of their tracks. Of course the design was bad and it was my fault. Even so, I have only built face frame cabinets since then. The very simple structure is extremely strong and light until the top is added. I use a 16 gage nail gun with 1.25 -2” nails, and fill the holes with Famowood putty. The only other fasteners used are 1/4" crown x 3/4" long staples to hold the 1/4" plywood back on.
The cabinet shown below has a minimum of parts, uses a minimum of wood, and goes together very fast. Some of the cabinets shown in the shop tour thread have 500 or more pounds on them, and all are built the same way. I no longer build shelves/doors below the height of the workbench top. Doors and shelves at eye level are fine, but below the top of workbench height holds only drawers. I find that drawers hold twice as much as shelves, and they are easier to find things in. It’s just a personal preference.
The construction photos are self explanatory. Just notice the small blocks already mounted to the face frames to center the center drawer supports. Additional small blocks are in place to help hold the horizontal back boards. You can build these cabinets any size you choose, and no drawings are necessary. I use a simple sketch to write sizes on, and start cutting out the parts.
The first photo shows a finished cabinet, and it does not look too simple to build until you see just the basic parts assembled.
The back of the cabinet is flush, with small notches in the middle so the horizontal boards can be flat. The plywood face frame parts are added to the front, and then the back is stapled in place flush to the edges and top and bottom. Adding the precut back will square everything up. Stand the cabinet up, use a carpenter square to see that the sides are square to the back before all the glue joints dry.
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