Question for the Jig freaks...

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  • RodKirby
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2002
    • 3136
    • Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
    • Mao Shan TSC-10RAS

    #16
    Originally posted by LarryG
    Although I've not seen this particular jig before, I've seen others that function the same way, exactly as DonHo and radhak describe. The little block that Rod asked about in his OP acts like a featherboard, in addition to being the gauge block.

    EDIT: I should say that the block can act like a featherboard if the jig is rigged so it won't slide in the miter slot -- which, upon further review, I see that this jig is not. Easy enough to fix; but if that's not done, the jig should be set aside before making the cut.
    Thanks Larry - that's the "bit" (pun not intended), that was missing.

    IMHO - a LOT of work for little function.
    Downunder ... 1" = 25.4mm

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    • hermit
      Established Member
      • Dec 2002
      • 379
      • Somerset, PA, USA.

      #17
      I actually made a simple one on these jigs for my BT when I had it. I took a length of stock ( say around 8" long), cut it in half, reattached the two halves with a strap hinge. Clamped the thing to the SMT fence and set the required distance. After I moved the fence to rip, I could simply swing the block out of the way via the hinge. The neat thing is, you really don't even have to swing it manually. It will move as the stock is fed anyway. Swing it back to readjust the fence for the next rip. Simple and it worked.

      Todd

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      • RodKirby
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2002
        • 3136
        • Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
        • Mao Shan TSC-10RAS

        #18
        Originally posted by hermit
        ...The neat thing is, you really don't even have to swing it manually. It will move as the stock is fed anyway...
        Todd
        ... only if, when moving, it does NOT travel to the rear of the saw blade - KICK BACK risk as it is moving with the offcut
        Downunder ... 1" = 25.4mm

        Comment

        • hermit
          Established Member
          • Dec 2002
          • 379
          • Somerset, PA, USA.

          #19
          Originally posted by RodKirby
          ... only if, when moving, it does NOT travel to the rear of the saw blade - KICK BACK risk as it is moving with the offcut
          I don't think I explained it right. I just clamp it to the fence on the SMT, but don't slide the SMT. The block stays in way in front of the blade, only used as a stop between the stock and the fence, when adjusting the rip fence. Make sense??

          Todd

          Comment

          • RodKirby
            Veteran Member
            • Dec 2002
            • 3136
            • Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
            • Mao Shan TSC-10RAS

            #20
            Originally posted by hermit
            I don't think I explained it right. I just clamp it to the fence on the SMT, but don't slide the SMT. The block stays in way in front of the blade, only used as a stop between the stock and the fence, when adjusting the rip fence. Make sense??

            Todd
            That sounds beter.
            Downunder ... 1" = 25.4mm

            Comment

            • JTimmons
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2005
              • 690
              • Denver, CO.
              • Grizzly 1023SLX, Ryobi BT3100

              #21
              Originally posted by DonHo
              Maybe it's used for something other than miters, like cutting thin strips
              DonHo
              Don is correct. It's in Shop Notes Vol. 16 Issue 94. In place of the block of wood at the end on their version, they used a bearing.

              http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/094/
              "Happiness is your dentist telling you it won't hurt and then having him catch his hand in the drill."
              -- Johnny Carson

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