"Dust Collector Remote????"

[BT3 WOODOG]

Thanks for the help guys!

[bluzcat]

Snap switches? What 'dat, bluzcat? (I couldn't help myself) I've never heard of them though, that's not saying much.

It's just a small switch that has a metal lever that opens (or closes) the circuit. Might also be called a proximity switch? The same kind of switch came on the one metal blast gate that came with the kit. Additional gates were 10 or 12 bucks each and I had a bunch of these switches, so it made sense to attach them to my plastic gates. I have 8 stations on my DC and I didn't relish the thought of buying all new gates. I just got the DC and plastic gates about two months ago. Still don't know why it took me so long to get a dust collector.

[ryan.s]

Are the remote receivers from woodcraft and/or ace hardware programmable with other key fobs? I have a lower duty remote receiver designed for lamps which I use for my ambient air cleaner and would like to use the same key fob. This is the remote I'm talking about.


Thanks.

[LCHIEN]

Snap switches? What 'dat, bluzcat? (I couldn't help myself) I've never heard of them though, that's not saying much.

snap switch, limit switch, micro switch are all common names for this kind of switch.



here's a pic. of a typical snap switch or microswitch, they have terminals in the back and on the bottom and the actuators are different, some have levers, levers with rollers, or just a button, usually snap-acting (they make a definate click when actuated and releasing) with some carefully specified mechanical hysteresis and specified actuation force (usually quite low).

The are used to detect open doors, or sense or limit the travel of mechanical moving parts, etc.

My microwave oven has several of them inside.

[Martin]

Remote for outdoor Christmas decorations

I use this remote which I learned about from this forum. I have a 1.5 HP Delta dust collector and sometimes, I use the same remote for the "3 peak HP" shop vacuum when I am using the ROS.

[LCHIEN]

I use this remote which I learned about from this forum. I have a 1.5 HP Delta dust collector and sometimes, I use the same remote for the "3 peak HP" shop vacuum when I am using the ROS.

The remotes for Christmas tree and the like are promoted heavily at Xmastime and usually avaialble throughout the year in black instead of green plastic, do have limits if you read the fine print. They give separate amperage or wattage maximum handling for Resistive, lighting and motor loads (yes they're different because of starting currents and power factor)
Something like (I don't recall the exact numbers)
Resistive - 1800 watts (15 A at 120V) (resistive if for loads like heaters, hair dryers, electric frying pans, etc)
Lighting - 1400W (12A)
Motor - 1000W (8.5A)
Sometimes found on a piece of paper with the unit and sometimes in the fine print molded into the case of the switch. Some of them only handle 1300W resistive and correspondingly less for other loads. I looked at a lot of them trying to find one properly rated for my DC.

If you have a 1.5 HP DC, it should draw in the range of 10-13A which might make it marginal with your remote.

OTOH, a number of posters on discussions like this in the past have said they used those inexpensive remotes with the 15A HF DC. Some said they worked. Some said they worked for a while then died. Of those, some opened it and find the internal conductor traces had melted and jumped it with a wire and it worked. As an engineer I would say there's some risk of fire but its appeares to be low, the main risk is the copper traces on the internal circuit board and possibly the switching device is limited and may get killed by repeated use. However I do have respect for ratings and how your chances of things going bad once they are exceeded can happen, its a matter of statistics. I don't like to play ratings roulette with my house and family.

I solved the problem by using the inexpensive remote to activate a 30A capacity relay that actually switched the DC power. The relay itself just took .1A or thereabouts, ensuring it will be easily controlled by the remote. It's also an easy way to switch a 220V DC with an inexpensive 120V remote.

[ExYankee]

Like maxparot, I use the X-10.
I like it because I've got fan, filter, lights on it and I am going to be adding the security system to it that will blast an alarm up to my house if someone breaks in (the last guy who did is out on probation ;-) I can also add a panic switch to sound the alarm in case I really hurt myself.

[Brian G]

I copied Loring's method for the HF 2HP DC. I have no complaints and it works great.