"Dust Collector Remote????"

[BT3 WOODOG]

What remote do You use,and why??? Looking for suggestions!

[steve-norrell]

I am using one of these. Works fine on a 20 gal. ShopVac but I don't know its applicability to the type of motor in your DC.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290269&cp=&sr=1&origkw=remote+switch&kw=remote+switch&parentPage=search&searchId=17829111213

Regards,Steve

[Pappy]

I'm running a Shop Fox unit with my 2HP HF DC. Price was one reason and lack of available 220v power was the other.

[LCHIEN]

i am using a home built relay to alow me to use a $10 wireless remote to control the 15A DC. There's an thread on it somewhere.
The typical inexpensive wireless remote switch cannot reliably handle a 2 HP motor load if you read the specs carefully.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19603&highlight=relay+box

If you need the pdf files they are no longer on my FTP site, but if you PM me I can mail them to you,

[dkhoward]

Im using the same one as Steve on my HF collector. I works fine and I havent had any problems with it. Seems to stay cool, handle the startup load fine and works from anywhere in the shop.

[Uncle Cracker]

For my 1.5hp Delta DC, I use this one from Woodcraft:

http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5117

It's on sale right now for $44, and I think I paid even less for mine.

[maxparot]

I use a X10 outlet module to control a HF 2hp DC I have a couple of keychain remotes and a couple of full sized remotes in different locations in the shop.
The reason for my using them is it allows me to also control other devices in the shop. My shop is equipped with an evaporative cooler that is plugged into another outlet module, I have lighting controlled by an X10 module and the main receiver module has a portable stereo plugged in.

[John Hunter]

I use the Woodcraft one it is currently on sale http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5117

[Thalermade]

I use the Penn State Long Ranger (220). I have had it for numerous years and it has always worked great in my small shop. The remote has survived several drops from its velcro-ed storage location on the bottom of a ceiling mounted air cleaner.

Russ

[LarryG]

I use the 120V version of the Long Ranger. You can get either version from amazon.com for considerably less than direct from PSI, and with free shipping, too.

I don't know what technology the other brands use, but the Long Ranger is RF, not line-of-sight. When I got mine, I walked about 20' outside the shop building and hit the ON button; the DC fired right up. In the shop, I keep the remote clipped to the front of my nail bags and just reach down and press the buttons, without having to turn toward the unit.

[ironhat]

Another option, if your wall is open for running a switch to the outlet that feeds your DC, is to have the switch somewhere central and skip using a remote. I did this before I closed up the wall on both sides but foud that I didn't place it in an easily accessable spot once I had the shop configured. I dropped back to using the Woodcraft unit with the switch mounted on the top of the RAS arm.

[LarryG]

Another option, if your wall is open for running a switch to the outlet that feeds your DC, is to have the switch somewhere central and skip using a remote.

This is what I did in my previous, smaller shop, and it worked out well. The only problem was that the switch was located a few inches off the left-rear corner of my BT3100, and was a little awkward to reach, especially when I was setting up a cut on a large panel. Otherwise, it worked great since all the other tools connected to the DC were grouped at one end of the shop. When using the band saw, jointer, planer, or router table, I never had to take more than one or two steps to reach the switch.

In larger shops, a pair of strategically-placed three-way switches could be used to save a few steps; either switch would turn the DC on or off. Or you could insert one or more four-way switches into the circuit between the three-ways, and have as many switches as you wanted, one by every tool ... but by then you'd be buying enough switches and copper to pay for a remote.

For any of these scenarios, motor-rated switches should be used.

If I had it to do over, I'd give serious consideration to using the blast gates with low-voltage contacts on them. I try to remember to close the relevant blast gate after I finish using a tool, so that I won't have to walk all over the shop checking and closing gates when I get ready to use the next tool. Since I have to walk over to the gate to open it, and again later to close it, it would only make sense to have the gate itself control the DC.

[bluzcat]

[
If I had it to do over, I'd give serious consideration to using the blast gates with low-voltage contacts on them. I try to remember to close the relevant blast gate after I finish using a tool, so that I won't have to walk all over the shop checking and closing gates when I get ready to use the next tool. Since I have to walk over to the gate to open it, and again later to close it, it would only make sense to have the gate itself control the DC.[/QUOTE]

I just installed this set-up. I bought the unit from PriceCutter, but it's a Long Ranger. The base kit comes with only one switched blast gate, but I had a bag of little snap switches that I epoxied onto my current plastic gates. This set-up works better than I ever thought it would. It's so easy to just open a gate, plus it forces you to close the gate when your done. IMO,the only system better than this is the ECO gate (?) that opens the gate and turns on the DC when you turn the machine on, but those pricey!

[ironhat]

Snap switches? What 'dat, bluzcat? (I couldn't help myself) I've never heard of them though, that's not saying much.

[footprintsinconc]

i also use the woodcraft/rockler one in the link above by john hunter.