installing casters

[Anna]

I don't have the proper terminology for things, so don't laugh at my description.

I got a couple of set of casters from Rockler when they were on sale. I thought they'd be the screw in types with the plate, but it's the type that has the bolt-like part instead. I didn't want to send it back and pay for the shipping, so I thought I might be able to use it somehow.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can use it with the little wooden cabinets I'm building for my tools? It's easy to figure out the screw-in type, but I'm not sure about the bolt-type. The bottoms of the cabinets are made of 3/4" plywood. Do I add another layer of plywood? Do I use some sort of insert that have threads? Do I make the base wider and deeper than the cabinet body to accommodate the casters?

It's hard for me to google something when I'm nomenclature-challenged. Was hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

Thanks.

[Bulkley]

Nobody's laughing. I'm nomenclature challenged too.

I'm having a hard time picturing what your hardware looks like. Does it look something like this: http://www.materialflow.com/MFG-PRODS/Metro/MMC-05.jpg ?

[Warren]

I don't know how long the shafts on the casters are or how the cabinet is constructed but, here goes.

One question: Is there a sleeve for the caster? It may be already sheathed over the caster spindle. If so, you would drill the hole for the sleeve. If not then drill slightly larger than the spindle and slide the caster in. If there are no instructions for drilling the holse, measure the spindle or spindle sleeve and use that size drill. It may take a bit of reaming to get a tight fit.

Usually these casters are installed into a piece of solid wood. I build cabinets and toy boxes using that style of caster. I attach a block of wood at the inside corners of the cabinet. I drill the block for the caster before attaching. If the block is 2X material the sides of the cabinet extend 1 and 3/4 inches below the frame pieces.

If you have designed so that the sides are flush with the frame and the frame won't accomodate a hole for the casters, you can fit the blocks for the casters inside the cabinet and drill through the floor of the cabinet into the block.

Hope this is more helpful than confusing.

[Anna]

I don't know why I didn't think of this earlier. Here's a picture. Sure beats trying to describe it.

[Anna]

The shaft is an inch long and probably half-an-inch in diameter. I didn't find any sleeves inside the box. Don't know where to buy sleeves, though. Will check out WoodCraft.

[LCHIEN]

The shaft is an inch long and probably half-an-inch in diameter. I didn't find any sleeves inside the box. Don't know where to buy sleeves, though. Will check out WoodCraft.

That's a threaded stem mount. Does not go into sleeves.
You should have a nut and lockwasher to thread onto the stud and seecure the caster onto the bottom of a unit with a flat bottom you can drill a hole - you should of course know the thread dia and pitch to get the right nuts.

You were probably looking for plate mount.
Google casters. Here's a site that shows all the options for mounts etc
as well as locking types, sizes and wheel material composition


http://www.castercity.com/

[Anna]

That's a stud mount. Does not go into sleeves.
You should have a nut and lockwasher to thread onto the stud and seecure the caster onto the bottom of a unit with a flat bottom you can drill a hole - you should of course know the thread dia and pitch to get the right nuts.

Thanks. Now I know what it's called, and I also have a better idea of what to do with it.

[Bulkley]

Anna, since the bolt is only an inch long, I'd be tempted to scrounge up some iron to mount it on. An 'L' girder (a little heavier than a bed frame) could be mounted at either end of your bench and the casters bolted to the girders. In fact, if the girders were to extend 3 or 4 inches beyond the structure, with the casters on the ends, the whole structure could be more stable. Do you have access to a small drill press, which could make it easier to drill holes?

[Anna]

Bulkley, thanks for the idea. I'm not sure how stable it'll be if the girders are extended beyond the cabinet, though. (It's for some mobile bases I'm building; my bench sits on the floor.) But it is certainly something to think about.
Thanks again.

[mpc]

I used those exact same casters in a roll-around cabinet I built for a Dewalt planer. Mine came with washers and nuts too though in the package. My cabinet was made from Baltic Birch plywood; the bottom was 3/4 inch thick for strength. Then, to avoid having screw threads/nuts in the bottom shelf, I plopped another piece of B-Birch (half inch) on top. That bottom shelf just lays in there, sitting on scrap wood supports between it and the cabinet bottom. I can remove it if needed to replace a caster or whatever.

I used those casters because when locked, they also lock the caster mechanism, not just the rolling motion. The planer cabinet is rock solid this way, even with only 2 of the 4 casters locked. I'll never buy the old style locking casters again!

mpc

[Anna]

MPC,

I was thinking of a similar configuration. Since the stem is an inch long, I thought I'd drill a countersink hole in the half-inch ply where the nut can stay unobtrusively. Glad to hear it works great, too. They look a little smallish, but they're supposed to be good for 110 lbs each.

Thanks again,
Anna

[LCHIEN]

MPC,

I was thinking of a similar configuration. Since the stem is an inch long, I thought I'd drill a countersink hole in the half-inch ply where the nut can stay unobtrusively. Glad to hear it works great, too. They look a little smallish, but they're supposed to be good for 110 lbs each.

Thanks again,
Anna

Careful when countersinking. The plywood may only be 3/8 or 1/4" thick under the nut when you get done. A bit of force (weight) or impact on it and you'll just punch that little circle of plywood out with the caster stillattached.

[Anna]

Careful when countersinking. The plywood may only be 3/8 or 1/4" thick under the nut when you get done. A bit of force (weight) or impact on it and you'll just punch that little circle of plywood out with the caster stillattached.

Hmm. What I was thinking was this: half-inch ply (or 3/4-inch) on top of 3/4" ply that's actually the bottom of the cabinet (meaning it's attached to the sides). Hole for the stem goes right through the bottom plywood and partially through the upper ply for countersinking the nut. First get the stem through, put in the nut to secure it, then put the top piece of plywood where the nut is countersunk, and screw that top ply to the bottom ply.

Does that make good sense (although it's starting to sound really inelegant)?

[Tom Miller]

Your plan sounds very reasonable to me. I'd suggest to use fender washers (large diameter washer) at least on top, if not on both sides. Make your hole in the top piece of ply large enough for clearance of washer (which will ensure clearance for socket when tightening.

Regards,
Tom

[Bruce Cohen]

Anna,

Can't help but confuse you more.

These are from Rockler, and if you can match up the diameter and threads from your existing casters, they should work a charm.

I used them on 4"x4" legs for my Dewalt planner and that sucker weighs about 100#.



Hope this is an easier solution.

Bruce