Decisions, decisions, decisions.

[Texas splinter]

Well, I finaly let the contract to a local contractor to convert half of the Barn into a shop. I will be going from a 12' X 20' (outside dinemsions) building to a shop that will be (roughly) 23' X 25' with a cement floor.
Now I have to decide just how I want to arrange it. I have a BT3100, a 6" jointer, a 13" planer, a bench-top drill press, and a bench-top bandsaw, (these will be replaced by floor models) and a dust collection system. I also have a 10" Hitachi CSMS that I want to mount into a bench or countertop somewhere in the shop.
I can't decide whether to add extension rails to my saw and build on a router table at the far right-hand end or just build a seperate router table.
The shop will have a 8'X8' insulated garage door and 8-0 3-0 entry door. The doors must be on the same side of the shop because the rest of the barn is surrounded by cattle pens. I also need to cut some windows into at least two of the other walls, but they will have to high enough to keep the cows from busting them.
I have looked at about a zillion shop floor plans but havn't seen just what I want. I have also done a bunch of different plans on 1/4 inch graph paper, but just can't quite visulize what I want there either.
I guess I'll just have to move stuff in there and then move it around till it "looks" right.
This will be a dedicated shop, so none of the stuff has to be moveable, but I may want to move some of it around to make room for big project assembly or painting.
Anyone else ever face this kind of dilemma?

[Red88chevy]

Hey Chuck,

Sounds like a great shop! There is a online shop organizer at Grizzly tools, its at the bottom of their page. It is pretty handy for organizing the shop and I think you can save it and come back to it later and make changes.
I'm like you I don't have to move my tools around, but I went ahead and added a Herculift to my TS as there were enough times I wanted to move it a couple feet one way or the other to handle long boards. Don't know if you have already built your shop tables, but if you haven't I would make them all the same height as your table saw. Mine are 3 different heights, I didn't plan ahead because if they were the same height it would be so much nicer trying to cut big things, like a sheet of plywood. I agree that you almost have to get everything in to see how it works together, but the closer you can get it to the way you want the better, because once you get started its hard to move for the piles of scraps and the stacks of lumber. How are you going to stack your lumber?

Good luck,
Doug

[Warren]

I prefer a seperate router table. I use the extended table for assembly when the bench won't suffice.

Regarding the shop setup. I've learned that the work flow should pretty much dictate the basic setup. Wood storage by the entry door, milling next followed by assembly and then finishing. I'm not that logical but, I try. I followed the basic concept and then as I worked and figured out my style I rearranged the shop to suit it.

I prefer all of the floor model tools, except the TS, on casters as it makes for easier clean up and there's always a project that requires more space at some particular tool that I didn't plan for.

I've rearranged the shop a couple of times in the last five years. I hope I eventually find the perfact setup. Yeah, like that'll ever happen. There's always another tool that requires it's own space that sneaks into the shop. What I really neeed is a space stretcher.

[DUD]

Chuck
I wish You well, but I want You to know that I hate You. Bill

[WEG]

Hi Chuck;
I also have a dedicated shop, but not nearly as wide as yours. I built a 48"x80" table that is in the middle of the shop that has the BT on one end and a 12 1/2" planer on the other end. The table is used for assemblies as well as just about everything. It's on casters but I very seldom move it. I put a roller made from closet pole across the edge next to the BT to keep the stock from hitting the table as it comes off the saw. I didn't notch it for the SMT like some tables are. It's made from two 24" solid core maple doors. It weighs a ton so it's pretty stable and it's size is great. Hope this might help. Good luck with the new space. That's a great size shop!
WEG

[LCHIEN]

use that Grizzly planner that Red88Chevy suggested!
here's a link:

http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner.aspx

[Texas splinter]

Doug asked: "How are you going to stack your lumber?"
Since the ceilings will be approx 10', I plan on building a plywood rack by the garage door, with brackets up the wall for stick lumber beyond the plywood rack.

To DUD: I understand, and it's Ok. Just dont come down here and kill me ;~). It would be a total waste of about a zillion hours on on-my-knees pleading with the LOML to get this shop.

To WEG: I have seen a "work island" in a WW mag. I get, and have thought about doing something like that.

To all others, thanks for the ideas and suggestions. I'll post some photos as the job progresses.
BTY, that price is only for replacing the roof (Metal roof currently on the barn was "reclaimed metal and is full of old mounting screw holes, plus the lap joints are not sealed), putting in the ceiling and pouring the 4" concrete floor, and adding the wall with the doors in it. It is currently just open and we used to park the trucks and equipment in that part.
I will be framing in the walls, adding insulation and interior wall covering, another decision: sheetrock or plywood walls? I will also be doing the wiring and etc., etc.

[JSUPreston]

Workbench mag this month had a great article about setting up a shop in small spaces, but the workbench idea for the CMS in the magazine may be right up your alley. Worth a look. Basically, 2 MDF kitchen cabinets, 2 shop built ends, a cull bin, MDF benchtop, CMS nook and rails fairly inexpesive. I'm considering redoing my workbenchh with this idea...but I'll have to wait until I get some projects done first.

[LarryG]

another decision: sheetrock or plywood walls?

Plywood, thick enough that you can hang small shelves and such anywhere, rather than just at stud locations. Costs more than gypsum board but you only have to pay for it once, and it'll be well worth it over the long haul.

You could also use OSB, or individual boards (T&G would be best, but will cost the most).

[Texas splinter]

I just got that issue of WORKBENCH and looked at that shop layout. It is for a really small shop, but could be modified (expanded) to a larger shop, no? I like it! Plus, I never thought about using cheap, store-bought cabinets till now. It would be cheaper than buying the materials and making the cabinetry, plus it sure would be a lot faster. At least for the cabinets to get started, then I could build some custom-built cabinets later, as required.
I don't really need one of those "All quartersawn oak cabinet shops" that you see in some of the magazines. All I need is something functional.