saw this wine rack at a restaurant recently

[LCHIEN]

I think it looks cool. Maybe an idea for someone. Not that hard to build repeating parts.




Looks like there's a small routed groove for the bottle.

[leehljp]

Loring: "Looks like there's a small routed groove for the bottle."
crown bits 1/2 in shank. Below is a 3 inch radius crown bit.
https://www.amazon.com/Yonico-16185-3-Inch-Radius-Horizontal/dp/B0799WBJ16/ref=pd_sim_hxwPM2_sspa_dk_detail_d_sccl_4_1/144-2695405-7588253?pd_rd_w=00wbN&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f614fb-7422-4924-9033-7874c8819e9e&pf_rd_p=67f614fb-7422-4924-9033-7874c8819e9e&pf_rd_r=RV7E71YFK0JGX5SSZQ7S&pd_rd_wg =izTLp&pd_rd_r=c5d42a0a-53a9-498e-93c4-1f875724dba8&pd_rd_i=B0799WBJ16&th=1

I have one from long ago before Amazon started selling bits from China. There are other sizes available but some are specialty sizes.

[LCHIEN]

Yeah, that'll do it.

[LCHIEN]

actually its a 3" Diameter, not radius bit. But its the correct size as the bottles have a 2.95" diameter, it will be cradled nicely. OTOH, a shallow V-groove cut will probably work just as well.

[LCHIEN]

Yeah 3" diameter will do.

more typical measurements:
Bottle-Dimensions.pdf

[LCHIEN]

A crown bit would make a nice rounded rest for the bottle, but if I was only doing a few I might not spend $25 on a crown bit but just do this shallow 14° V-groove



I'd tilt the blade 14 degrees, toward the fence raise it exactly 2 inches (assuming a 4" wide base), set the fence 3/8" from the tip of the blade and stand the workpiece on edge against the fence and make two passes.
This would suit the purpose of the groove to make the bottle line up neatly just as well.
There's some safety concerns here... I'd use a tall fence and use a push shoe horizontally on the workpiece above the blade tip to keep the workpiece against the tall fence with slight downward pressure. You're going to have a trapped workpiece and a fairly high raised bade. I would only do short lengths (about a foot long) and make sure to push it all the way through.

[LCHIEN]

this is very confusing.
The router bit cuts a cove of 6" diameter, 3" radius.
THe diameter of the bit is 3" which means that the groove it cuts is 3" wide.

This is not the correct bit linked by BW.

The correct bit would be the 1-1/2" radius cove, with a 1-1/2" cutting diameter. You would make a very shallow groove, to where there would be no vertical wall part. The good news is that this is a $15 bit, not a $25 bit.

[Nick Keenan]

You can cut coves like that on a table saw, this article shows how:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/proj...the-tablesaw-2

[capncarl]

Yep, cut the groove on the table saw. A few years ago I built a large number of square pedestals to be used for plant stands and sold to florists and wedding venues. Instead of fluting the sides sit a router I ran the boards at an angle over the table saw blade. With a bit of fiddling the blade will make a nice cove that only needs some proper sanding.

[LCHIEN]

Do you need two fences on both sides of the workpiece for the cove cut or can you do it with one angled fence? It seems the blade will push the workpiece into the fence? Which is what you want.