okay, so I am figuring a 13/16ths drill bil will be just under the .840, which would allow me to sand/file out the hole for a real tight fit around some 1/2"ID black iron pipe (this is for the copy stand)
dan
It's Like I've always said, it's amazing what an agnostic can't do if he dosent know whether he believes in anything or not
okay, so I am figuring a 13/16ths drill bil will be just under the .840, which would allow me to sand/file out the hole for a real tight fit around some 1/2"ID black iron pipe (this is for the copy stand)
dan
Ah the real season comes out.
If you want a fit that you can move and then lock in place,
cut a little oversize hole in a piece of 3/4" thick wood block. Makes a square "Ring" - leave about 1/2" on each side.
Then use a bandsaw or table saw to cut the ring across the hole.
Use a long wood screw to connect one side back together and
then use a semi-captive bolt and a threaded knob to tighten the other half.
The kerf of the cut will close up the hole around your pipe, and the knob will allow you to mkae it tight to hold or loose to slide.
You'll need to do some deep and neat countersunk holes and stuff.
actually, there will be a 3/8" dia screw that is running down the length of the pipes to provide the heigth adjustment for the copy-stand arm, I just need to make sure that the holes in the arm-carriage that the 2 pieces of pipe pass through have tolerances as close to .840 as possible so that there is very little play.
The plan is to make a 13/16 hole using a forstner bit, and then take off about 1/16" to make the fit real nice and tight.
This way, when the weight of the camera is exerting downward force on the arm, the carriage and the arm will reamine nearly in plane with the base of the stand. To make the top and bottom of the carriage I will clamp all 4 pieces together and bore them at the same time, so al l holes line up perfectly
Dan
It's Like I've always said, it's amazing what an agnostic can't do if he dosent know whether he believes in anything or not
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