Add thick HW front to 1/4 ply

[poolhound]

Hi there folks, its been a heck of a year so far. Having ventured into my first year as a woodworking business, trying my hand at semi-retirement, my regular business has been the busier than ever so I am burning the candle on all ends!! So much for working less.

SO here is a project question for the assembled WWing brain trust. I have a client who has a solid surface vanity (no sink, just flat) in a dressing room. He wants to cover this top with a wood surface that matches the doors and trim in his home (Pecan/Hickory). I suggested either 3/4 solid wood or a 3/4 mdf ply. He is pretty adamant he does not want to add that much height so I got some 1/4" mdf ply which is as much as he is happy with. The front of the vanity is 1 1/2" deep and I want to edge with hardwood. I want to prefab and finish in my shop and not just stick it on on-site and deal with the join issues there.

So what methods could I use to place a minimum of a 1/2 thick front 1-7/8 deep onto 1/4" ply?

The main one that comes to my mind is cutting a 5/16 rabbet in the top of the HW and attaching the plywood into it and then plane/route/sand down flush. I should then have enough HW on the edge to sand or route and 1/8 roundover.

Thoughts, other ideas please?

[capncarl]

Are you gluing a thin pecan/hickory wood top on to the 1/4" ply? If you have access to enough pecan/hickory you shouod be able to build a 1/2" slab without the headache the ply will bring with it.
You should be able to glue the edge to the face of your new slab, flatten the top and face then round over the top of the face.
capncarl

[poolhound]

The 1/4 ply is hickory ply. My client did not want to add more than 1/4" of height to the existing surface.

Are you gluing a thin pecan/hickory wood top on to the 1/4" ply? If you have access to enough pecan/hickory you shouod be able to build a 1/2" slab without the headache the ply will bring with it.
You should be able to glue the edge to the face of your new slab, flatten the top and face then round over the top of the face.
capncarl

[capncarl]

The rabbit will work and give enough surface to glue the face to...... if you plan the rabbit the right depth. Cut the rabbit to the depth of a ply that is perpendicular to the face. Make the face slightly proud to the ply surface, glued up and clamped tightly. Be careful when bringing the top and the face flush because the hickory top ply is paper thin.
( I've messed up more than my share of venier surfaces this way! )
What is your plans for the finish?
How do you intend to fasten the wood top to the solid surface?

[LCHIEN]

I would make the 1/4" oversize and set it into a rabbet in the surrounding edge The Ply will be weak where it goes over the edge of the existing top. If someone were to lean their weight on the outside of the new edge the plywood might fracture where it crosses the old table top. The new overhanging edge will be the strength of the top... make it as thick as you can.

[poolhound]

I would make the 1/4" oversize and set it into a rabbet in the surrounding edge The Ply will be weak where it goes over the edge of the existing top. If someone were to lean their weight on the outside of the new edge the plywood might fracture where it crosses the old table top. The new overhanging edge will be the strength of the top... make it as thick as you can.

Good thought.

[atgcpaul]

You can't remove the existing vanity top?

[capncarl]

Yep, if you cut a rabbit in the 1/4" plywood you wouldn't have anything left to support the edge. It would work in 3/4" ply. Also, if you don't allow the 1/4 ply to overhang the solid surface much, just into the rabbit in the face and make the face snug against the outside edge of the solid surface, someone leaning on the edge wouldn't be much of a problem. If the customer wants you to widen the cabinet top with your 1/4" ply, then you are in trouble.

[poolhound]

You can't remove the existing vanity top?

It is a built in and the current top is some form of solid surface countertop which he detests. There is no easy way to get it out without then needing to redo some of the drywall etc. He wants it "simply" covered.

[atgcpaul]

I would consider applying phenolic backed veneer and contact cement.

http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/pecan-veneer-two-tone.html