Not specific to any project but something I needed to learn ...

[BadeMillsap]

Looks good! How many fingers do you have left? How about a photo of your jig?
Is the weight going to be too much for the top of the tree?

[emoji3] still have all my digits. I'll get a pic of the jig posted and you will be underwhelmed... Just a copy of the video's jig in earlier post.

I suppose weight could be a problem. These two are cedar and pine and don't really weigh much at all.

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[capncarl]

Looks good! How many fingers do you have left? How about a photo of your jig?
Is the weight going to be too much for the top of the tree?

[BadeMillsap]

Not sure if you can see the images below (if you can't please let me know) .... first attempt with pics on new version ...

After installing a new 90 tooth Diablo blade and cutting another star with slightly different geometry (same jig) and stacking star #2 on top of star #1 I believe I stumbled on a possible prototype of a new Christmas tree topper to make as gifts ... (assuming of course I can duplicate these two ... )

Hopefully two images below:

[capncarl]

My point exactly, it's a 4 station jig. You might could do it with only 2 if you could cut the outside bevel last. That might eleminate some of the error. The major problem I see with most any small parts jig is safety, ie, holding the parts. Parts testing is an issue making this 10 piece star because you have to make all 10 before you can see if they fit. I fully agree, a fun project.

[BadeMillsap]

Yep, 4. Since each arm is 2 mirrored parts glued together that accounts for 2 stations on the jig. The length of the arm is up to the builder and does not have to be very long or can be feet long. That bevel cut is also 2 mirrored parts glued together, accounting for 2 more stations on the jig. The trick, like utube stated, is getting the angle in the jig perfect. Smaller stars would most definitely require some kind of holding device less you would wind up with nubs.
The type wood used plays an important part. You don't want something that burns, fuzzes up or splinters bad. The saw blade also needs to be clean and very sharp.
For once I believe that we have found a project that the router guys can't show off with! Although the bevel on the arm could be cut with any decorative moulding jig on a router table and would give the star a different personality.
capncarl

Maybe I just misunderstood what you were saying ... it is true if you look at the YouTube that there are 4 positions (not counting the outside bevel) used on the jig to cut the 10 pieces. If that isn't what you meant I am missing your point but regardless ... it's a fun project and I'm hoping to get a more generalized jig built that allows a variety of star sizes.

If you have some pictures of examples of how you would approach this with the sliding miter on the BT I'd be interested to see your work.

[capncarl]

Yep, 4. Since each arm is 2 mirrored parts glued together that accounts for 2 stations on the jig. The length of the arm is up to the builder and does not have to be very long or can be feet long. That bevel cut is also 2 mirrored parts glued together, accounting for 2 more stations on the jig. The trick, like utube stated, is getting the angle in the jig perfect. Smaller stars would most definitely require some kind of holding device less you would wind up with nubs.
The type wood used plays an important part. You don't want something that burns, fuzzes up or splinters bad. The saw blade also needs to be clean and very sharp.
For once I believe that we have found a project that the router guys can't show off with! Although the bevel on the arm could be cut with any decorative moulding jig on a router table and would give the star a different personality.
capncarl

[BadeMillsap]

Well... The star is actually 10 individual pieces... Not sure how you see 4. The jig itself isn't really complex, just the requisite precision of the positioning of the jig parts and cutting the pieces.

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[capncarl]

I made a jig for the sliding miter table for my Craftsman BT to cut my table top parts. It was only made for cutting 4 pieces, like the star appears to be. I bet that the BT sliding miter table will give this guys jig a run for the money.

[ArtworksIII]

Any time wood is repurposed to art or a useful object it is miraculous. Using your skills in geometry never hurts. Sort of like building stairs. Stars are art deco and have a place in soooo many applications Holidays. nice work.....

[leehljp]

In LIKE that. His jig reminds me very much of the mini table saw and sled that I made. Very accurate cuts! Thanks for posting this! If we have a Best of "How to" I would recommend this thread, that video link and your star!

[BadeMillsap]

Are you going to share it with us?

I wish I could take full credit for how to make the jig ... the internet being tantamount to man's discovery of fire is a wonderful thing ... the video in this link => https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7hckWV84pM is what I used as a guide. He does a very complete job of describing the math involved which really cleared up a lot of the mystery for me. Building the jig itself is very straightforward BUT as I previously stated the precision required is frustrating. Having to locate (in the case of the example) 9 15/64" as a measurement point and repeat that 10 times EXACTLY is tedious. My first try was "close" and looked really good until the final fit of the last two segments ... that's when I realized that "close" wasn't good enough.

I am sure there are other ways to do this but so far this has been my most successful ...

[leehljp]

Great looking! In a way, it makes me think of segmented bowls where the joints are done to perfection! If you can do that (and you did) I'm expecting more! Beautifully done!

In reading your technique, (1/64th inch) It kinda reminded me of a pen I made once about 8 years ago. it was a pin stripe kinda like the New York Yankee pin strip uniform. I made it with such precision that nothing was out of alignment. After posting picts of it on the (IAP) pen forum and describing the technique and jigs, I got several requests over the next several weeks from a few people who tried to make one. I decided to make a second one and document it step by step as I went. I gave up on the 6th or 7th pen trial! (BTW, that pen made the IAP forum "pen of the month" front page display. I certainly was not expecting that.)

I realized that I just got lucky on the first try! The pen blank segments required precision of at least 1/128. Anything equal to or less than that became obvious with segment imperfections. I made a table top - table saw with a 6 1/2 saw attached under it, and the whole top was sliding. For the mounting plate, I used 3/16th in sheet aluminum. 1/4" cabinet/marine grade ply for the sliding top. Jigs attached to the 1/4 top and I could adjust the pen blank cuts with as little as .005 (1/200") with ease. I haven't used the saw or jig since being back home (from Japan) but I was looking at it a couple of weeks ago, just dreaming.

I would love to see your jig set up!

[LCHIEN]

Are you going to share it with us?

[BadeMillsap]

Thanks guys ... I appreciate the positive feedback! It really is amazing to me how many of these things I see around craft fairs and such ... in many different sizes. It's clear to me I haven't cracked the whole nut on technique but I've made a little progress and will keep wrestling this beast 'til I figure something that suits my needs.

[phrog]

Lookin' good. Lookin' real good!