Mdf furniture design?

[gjat]

My youngest asked for a customer tall dresser for her small apartment, not a lifetime heirloom piece so I'm considering making part of it with mdf. It will be painted but I've never used the stuff and am unsure what is a good design/jointery to incorporate it. I don't think pocket hole screws would work, but if I build a face frame and attach sides, bottom, and back w/ mdf, what is the best joint? A standard rabbet, a dado, some other butt joint, a complete wood frame with just panels?

Any recommendations on plans you've used that worked out well? I draw up what I want to build and look at other plans for basic design for joints, but am really unsure on the MDF. I don't want the piece to be heavy (i'm sure it'll have to survive a couple of moves) and maybe mdf is too fragile?

[trungdok]

I hate cutting mdf. The fine dusts produced go everywhere.

Anyway, I would rabbet/dado/groove, glue, and clamp. That had work well for me.

An alternative is use OSB. It's lighter and work as well as mdf for your need, imo.

[jwd12]

Having moved my daughter more times than I can remember (always top floor w/o elevator), think light. MDF or Melamine can get heavy without much size (don't know about OSB). Were I considering such a project I would be thinking face frames and plywood panels.

[ironhat]

You will need to be careful driving screws. MDF has zero give and will blow out if you're not using hardwood tolerances for drilling the holes. Give the same liberal tolerances for countersinking the screw heads. You can't rely on forcing the screw to perform its own countersink. Since I'm not experienced in the use of MDF this is just a 'heads up' and not an 'all you need to know' on the topic. Check either Wood or Woodworkers Journal in the past year for an article on the subject. HTH!

[Neal]

I've been working on my Ulimate tool stand which is constructed from MDF. Most of it is butt joints with pocket screws. So far so good.

It is very dusty stuff so have your dust collection ready to roll.

Iit is HEAVY stuff, one sheet weighs almost 100lbs so it is a little hard to handle.

It finishes well. No blemishes. I've used poly eurathane on mine and the top work surfaces have received three coats with sanding in between and it has created a very smooth surface.

Dropping it can be an issue as if it hits a corner it tends to delaminate.

Did I mention have the shop vac ready. A router can make a quick mess of this stuff. Probably wont do that again.

Be sure to finish any exposed edges, stuff is porus as all get out.

Oh and shop vac (or dust collector)!

[cwsmith]

I really hate MDF, for almost anything. IMHO, about the only advantage of MDF is that it's cheap and it has decent compression qualities, maybe as a replaceable covering for a bench or something.

I've only made one project with it, and it was terrible. The stuff sags even over just a few inches and whether screws or glue, it has no integrity. I'm not even sure how it would hold up if you used bolts and washers, which would be rather ugly in many cases.

Even in vertical applications, like for side panels, it offers very little support qualities without some form of additional support to keep if from wavering or bulging.

Working with the stuff is also rather nasty, as it's nothing but glued dust which is compressed into form. So not only is it dirt to work with, I'm of the impression that it's also not healthy to work in. It just looks and smells unhealthy, IMO. It is also quite heavy when compared to most other sheet goods.

I'm of the opinion that when one considers the amount of effort and talent that a typical woodworker will expend on such projects, they and their project will be much more deserving of a better material. Surely your satisfaction of the results will fare better.

CWS

[gjat]

Thanks for the advice. Now I'm thinking of going with what I know. The only reasons to use MDF was the smooth finish and cheap. The weight, mess, and workability doesn't seem enough of an benefit to save a few bucks on a quick knock out dresser she probably won't keep for 10 years. A frame w/ plywood panels seems easiest. Now to get a suitable furniture plan I can easily modify.

[trungdok]

Another option (seeing that you're in Florida) is to visit your local Habitat for Humanity ReStore. You might find a tall dresser for cheap, or something that you can work off of. The ReStore near me has a whole warehouse of furniture -- some are incredible and cheap.

http://www.habitat.org/restores/search?zip=&area=FL

[atgcpaul]

I don't like routing MDF but other than that I think it's great to work with. I have good dust collection on my TS and so it doesn't make any more mess than when I'm using plywood. It doesn't chip out on me like plywood. There are no surprise voids, takes paint great, and I know if I'm just using one sheet, I'm getting the same thickness of material the whole time. I also don't have to worry about what direction I'm cutting it because I want the grain running in a certain direction for looks.

I predrill deeper than is needed and my drill bit is slightly wider than the shaft of the screw. If I don't, I know it'll probably crack on the edge, but otherwise, I know it'll hold.

In your case, though, I would definitely be scanning Craigslist for a used dresser or go to IKEA.

[gjat]

I don't like routing MDF but other than that I think it's great to work with. I have good dust collection on my TS and so it doesn't make any more mess than when I'm using plywood. It doesn't chip out on me like plywood. There are no surprise voids, takes paint great, and I know if I'm just using one sheet, I'm getting the same thickness of material the whole time. I also don't have to worry about what direction I'm cutting it because I want the grain running in a certain direction for looks.

I predrill deeper than is needed and my drill bit is slightly wider than the shaft of the screw. If I don't, I know it'll probably crack on the edge, but otherwise, I know it'll hold.

In your case, though, I would definitely be scanning Craigslist for a used dresser or go to IKEA.

Don't go changing my mind now LOL

It's a custom size to fit the area and hold a TV, so re-habbing used is not an option. Plus it's not as fun.

[dbhost]

If you want MDF, save yourself the time and effort and just go to Walmart and buy her a Chinese dresser. It will last just as long, look just as good, and you won't get MDF dust clogging your filters or your lungs. Save the wood shop for actual wood...

[Condoman44]

MDF Ugh

I just will not work with MDF. It adds nothing that plywood does not already have. Inject a little moisture to an unsealed part and trouble begins.

You are better off with plywood and a face frame. Use knock down hardware possible.

[cwsmith]

It was mentioned that MDF "paints well". I'd agree, if you were only talking about painting the flat surface. BUT, the edges of MDF are horrible, unless they are sealed; and even then, it takes several coats of sealer for those edges NOT to act like a sponge.

The only thing I have successfully used MDF for is to surface my RAS table. For that purpose it's "okay". But even then, not great or even very good, as it stains quite easily in it's natural state. However, it's cheap price for such application makes it very easy on the pocket book to replace often.

CWS

[atgcpaul]

It was mentioned that MDF "paints well". I'd agree, if you were only talking about painting the flat surface. BUT, the edges of MDF are horrible, unless they are sealed; and even then, it takes several coats of sealer for those edges NOT to act like a sponge.

The edges are easily remedied. Either don't deal with them directly and apply a face frame or smear them with joint compound or spackle--the sandable kind. When it's dry, sand smooth and you're ready for paint.

[LCHIEN]

Throwaway/single use furniture

FWIW compare the costs of building a cheap unit plus the hardware you need, then take a look at Ikea. You may come out ahead at Ikea after you factor in your time and the mess MDF makes.