Pool Table Issue - Need ideas

[Raffi]

Recently purchased an older pool table. For some reason I don't fully understand, modern rail cushions are different from older rail cushions.

The table I have has older rails and modern cushions, the net result is that the rail height is apparently too low, causing balls (particularly those with topspin) to jump off the cushions.

One possible solution it to raise the rail height. It looks like I need a consistent 1/16" all the way around.

It would need to be a hardwood to match the existing, and to tolerate the abuse (though the ball would never contact it).

I am having a hard time thinking of how (what machine?) could be used to create these shims (if you will). They would need to be approximately 4-4.5" wide and 1/16" tall.

I was thinking of using my saw to cut strips from 1x4 oak: just cut 1/16" strips off of the width, then gluing two or three to the bottom of each rail. But I would prefer a single piece 1/16 by 4-4.5".

Would love to hear some thoughts on the subject.

[LCHIEN]

smaller balls?

[Raffi]

smaller balls?

LOL…..no, I don't think so.

[JR]

Have you ever had the table apart? On my old slate table the rails were bolted from below through holes in the slate. You might be able to put shims (washers, pieces of wood, whatever) between the rail and slate. That way they wouldn't have to be pretty.

Loring's idea is not all bad! Not all balls are created equal. Seriously.

[Raffi]

Have you ever had the table apart? On my old slate table the rails were bolted from below through holes in the slate. You might be able to put shims (washers, pieces of wood, whatever) between the rail and slate. That way they wouldn't have to be pretty.

This is exactly what I am attempting. Question is, how do I get a precise 1/16" x 4" cut?

Loring's idea is not all bad! Not all balls are created equal. Seriously.

No, I'd prefer to stick to regulation pool, thus the purchase of the pool table as opposed to a snooker table.

[LCHIEN]

This is exactly what I am attempting. Question is, how do I get a precise 1/16" x 4" cut?


...

Rip to 4" wide on a table saw.
Then rip on a bandsaw to 1/16"

Are you sure you need a whole large full length/full width shim?
For 1/16th of an inch you could just put a flat washer between the slate and the rail at each bolt location.

I was half serious about smaller balls... if you have an older pool table, has the standard changed any since it was made? Antique balls may be smaller, it only needs to be 1/16th smaller is what I'm hearing.

[Pappy]

Not the cheapest solution but sub rails are available here.

https://www.adamswoodproducts.com/configure.asp?cat=57

If you click on the dimensions link it gives a detailed profile if you wanted to make your own.

Depending on how good your cushions and felt is, there are different cushion profiles available. A good dealer should be able to tell you which ones you need.

[Raffi]

Rip to 4" wide on a table saw.
Then rip on a bandsaw to 1/16"

Are you sure you need a whole large full length/full width shim?
For 1/16th of an inch you could just put a flat washer between the slate and the rail at each bolt location.

I was half serious about smaller balls... if you have an older pool table, has the standard changed any since it was made? Antique balls may be smaller, it only needs to be 1/16th smaller is what I'm hearing.

It's an 80's era table, and the pool ball dimensions have not changed in the last two decades.

I am worried that by using a washer or something similar it would destabilize the rails that take constant impacts. I was thinking the full piece shim glued to the bottom of the rail would provide the best stability.

[Raffi]

Not the cheapest solution but sub rails are available here.

https://www.adamswoodproducts.com/configure.asp?cat=57

If you click on the dimensions link it gives a detailed profile if you wanted to make your own.

Depending on how good your cushions and felt is, there are different cushion profiles available. A good dealer should be able to tell you which ones you need.

Pappy, thanks. What a great resource. The dimensions help a ton.

[JR]

This is exactly what I am attempting. Question is, how do I get a precise 1/16" x 4" cut?

Ok, I get you now. Why not come on over and we'll run some stock through my wide belt sander? I do this all the time, although not usually down to 1/16".

[Raffi]

Ok, I get you now. Why not come on over and we'll run some stock through my wide belt sander? I do this all the time, although not usually down to 1/16".

That's extremely generous of you. Do you think it would be able to do 1/16"? I may take you up on that!

[JR]

When milling very thin material I simply place it on a piece of 3/4" ply. It uaually goes through very well, but if necessary the shim material can be affixed with double sided tape. The height adjustment is very fine, similar to what you'd expect from a planer - even finer!

You're profile doesn't say where in CA you are, but if you're nearby I'm happy to help.

[capncarl]

The cushons were not by any chance installed upside down were they? If I remember correctly there is an angle on the top and bottom of the inside face of the cushon, and those angles might be slightly different, thus raising or lowering the ball contract surface depending on their installation.
capncarl

[Pappy]

Not likely. The cushions have an angle on top of maybe 10 degrees and around 45 - 50 degrees on the lower part. Installing them upside down would put the edge of the cushion less than 1/2" from the playing surface.

More likely the wrong profile cushions were used when they were replaced.

[Raffi]

Not likely. The cushions have an angle on top of maybe 10 degrees and around 45 - 50 degrees on the lower part. Installing them upside down would put the edge of the cushion less than 1/2" from the playing surface.

More likely the wrong profile cushions were used when they were replaced.

This is what I fear. I don't pretend to have a full understanding of the issue, but apparantly throughout the years the standards have changed 3 or 4 times for cushion shape.

It is possible that the modern cushions used on this table are the wrong angle for the older rail profile.

The fix in that case would be to either replace the rails with modern rails, or remove the rails and either build up the angle or increase the angle to fix the problem.

The last possibility, and the one I'm hoping for because the fix will be (relatively) easy, is that the rail thickness simply needs to be increased.

There are professional table mechanics and I will have one come and look at it before I muck around with it, but I want to be as educated as I can about the problem and possible solutions so I don't end up throwing good money after bad.

Very much appreciate the feedback.