Leaky Containers

[cabinetman]

I posted a thread a while back about a problem I had with damage from a can of lacquer thinner (click here). It must not be of any interest to anyone because there were no replies.

Leaky containers can be a major PITA. I've experience leaking from a Zinsser Seal Coat factory can. For some cans, both quart and gallon for lacquer thinner, and acetone, an actual leak may not be a problem, but it seems that there can be vapor emitted.

If you use and cement acrylics, like Plexiglas, or polycarbonate, and use ethylene dichloride, or methylene chloride, or a factory packaging of Weldon #4, the factory metal cans allow an evaporation factor. Now, I'm not big on using glass containers in the shop, for obvious reasons, but I will say that for storage of many solvents, a mason's jar works very well. Those are the ones with a metal screw on lid that has an attached rubber gasket on the inside of the lid.

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[twistsol]

That just further cements my decision to stick as much as possible with water based finishes. I've always been sensitive to the fumes and hated working with lacquer. It was even worse once I started spraying.

I don't have glass containers in the shop because I too big a klutz and would just add broken glass to whatever I just spilled.

[atgcpaul]

I have experienced the leaky shellac can. I still have a puddle of hardened shellac caked on my bench and floor that needs chiseling off.

I use an oil/varnish blend for finishing and exclusive use mason jars or any wide mouth glass jar to hold it. The biggest problem I've had is getting the lid stuck onto the jar when finish gets trapped in the lid threads. I now lay a doubled over sheet of plastic food wrap between the lid and the cap then tighten it down. I found this prevents the finish from locking the lid shut while still provided a good seal to keep out air.

[beetee3]

Me too

I too have had a can of Zinser Seal Coat leak. Fortunately it only added to the patina on my MDF topped bench. I assumed that I had somehow damaged the bottom seam of the can by tapping the lid on with a mallet. Maybe there is a bigger problem here. Kind of disturbing when I store my flammables in the attached garage, where the water heater is located

[Stytooner]

For my Weldon 4, I poke a small hole in the inner metal cap. This allows just the needle to be inserted into this hole and suction out the amount needed. Then I replace the large cap. I have not had any issue with evaporation or leaking using this method. It minimizes evaporation when open this way as well.
There is a reason that these are not stored in glass containers. That would basically make them potential molotov cocktails. Especially true with highly flammable solvents.

[cabinetman]

For my Weldon 4, I poke a small hole in the inner metal cap. This allows just the needle to be inserted into this hole and suction out the amount needed. Then I replace the large cap. I have not had any issue with evaporation or leaking using this method. It minimizes evaporation when open this way as well.

Cool idea. I might give that a try. For the needle are you using the little plastic squeeze bottle and a stem needle? The needles I use are the same as medical syringes.

There is a reason that these are not stored in glass containers. That would basically make them potential molotov cocktails. Especially true with highly flammable solvents.

Yes, there is the potential for breakage, as I never had a metal container shatter into hundreds of shards if dropped on the floor. I use a masons jar for storage, and not to work out of. Speaking of flammables, my local environmental agency mandates a fireproof cabinet for flammables and toxic stuff. The cost of those are pretty high. An alternative was to build a fireproof room, which is what I did. What doesn't make sense is that those fireproof containment methods aren't ventilated, and it seems that keeping any ambient vapors contained would be a danger. Maybe the theory is that without venting a fire would extinguish itself due to using up the oxygen. Your thoughts?

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[capncarl]

The purpose of venting is to reduce the ppm of the flammable/oxy to a safe number.
capncarl

[Stytooner]

I am with you guys here. I would say it should be vented. Even fuel tanks are vented.

I do use glass syringes with flexible teflon needles. I find I have far more control over the flow when I can see it in the needle.
I use the bottles for larger applications.

Like these. They are glass, but very heavy duty and can take a beating or rather dropping without breaking. Hardwaood floor though. I'm sure it would shatter on concrete.

http://cadenceinc.com/catalog/produc...eable_syringes

[cabinetman]

I am with you guys here. I would say it should be vented. Even fuel tanks are vented.

There's some interesting data on the venting. This article describes some details and regulations associated with fireproof cabinets.

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[Stytooner]

I wasn't meaning to vent it back inside the shop. Vent to outside is what I had in mind. I keep most of this type stuff in a steel cabinet that is outside, but under a lean to. It isn't a fire proof cabinet, but since it is steel, it does help some and keeps those products outside the shops.

That does mean they are subject to temperature changes though, so sometimes what I want is no longer any good. It is a tradeoff though.
If I dealt with lots of this stuff all the time, I might invest in a fire safe cabinet. I am satisfied for now though.