How do you identify your work?

[ironhat]

I won't be doing the large furniture pieces as I had intended in my retirement as planned so a branding iron isn't appropriate for the occasional project. I saw an article about making iron-on labels for that purpose and that sounds likely. I've tried one of those vibra-pens and have made a mess of that! So, what do you guys use? I believe that I saw your initialized logo that you sent off to Sweden (?) to have it laser cut, Bruce. Great, but beyond me. OK, let's hear it.

[chopnhack]

On a few pieces that I thought were worth signing, I used a cheap battery powered engraver (like a pen) and then went back and burnt the wood with a soldering iron. My little iron took forever to burn, but its a fairly permanent method, engraved and burnt. Hope you don't have a lot of letters in your name!

[LCHIEN]

personalized electric branding iron. Its a nice touch.
People are always impressed that you take it so seriously.

It takes about 15 minutes to heat up enough to brand well, then you have to let it cool off before you can put it away. Waiting sometimes takes patience I don't always have so I made a batch of wood "labels" some thin stock (1/8") maybe 1" x 2" and branded them. If I need a quick ID on a piece I'll attach one of the labels with brass headed pins.

[dbhost]

On the very few pieces I felt were worthy of leaving my mark, I use a woodburning iron / pen on a discrete part of the project....

[herb fellows]

Not sure where you get your moniker from, were you an ironworker?
If so, you might simplify it by a simple line drawing of a hard hat with your initials inside or next to it.
I've done burning but you have to be real careful to keep the depth of the burn even and watch out for grain that makes the iron move in a direction you don't want it to. Definitely practice first on a scrap of the same wood so you get a feel for it if you do decide to burn.
Good luck! Put up some pics of your efforts if you can, I'd love to see what you are doing.

[cabinetman]

I use just a hand tool, like a Dremel or a Foredom and sign and date in script form. If the area you choose to sign will be difficult once assembled, do the area ahead of time. Working with a flat open piece is much easier to get a well planned layout. Using a script looks more natural than a printed perfect font, like a stamped one. It still looks good when all done even though it isn't like signing on paper with a ballpoint. It looks like it should being hand done in wood.

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[Knottscott]

Several years ago I bought a rubber stamp....it works great, looks great, and only takes a few seconds.....it works best if I apply it before the clear coats. I also like to add a penny or nickel from the year the piece was made.

[tommyt654]

Like the penny idea,I too just write my name and spray a clear poly over it to preserve.

[Pappy]

Depends on who the piece is for. For family gifts, I sign and date the piece with a Sharpie, often with a short personal message. For other items I have labels that I printed on gold foil return address labels.

[Bruce Cohen]

I have DNA run on the blood stains that seem to crop up on most of the stuff I do.

Seriously, Magic marker and two coats of cleat poly over the sig.

Bruce

[BadeMillsap]

Personalized branding iron except for musical instruments ... those I print a self designed label, sign, date and glue in ... on solid body guitars it's under the pickups.

[steve-norrell]

Personal branding iron when I remember. Anything less than perfect doesn't get signed.

Regards, Steve.

[ironhat]

I was gathering quotes to respond but there are so many good ones that I just have to say, "Thanks, all". I had thought of some of these but didn't know how they would hold up. Now that I have corroboration how long they last I can best choose. BTW, herb, my last name in German is, 'ironhat'. I can't get any solid evidence on how it was established but, it's certainly a very old name, ca, 12th century.

[LCHIEN]

Several years ago I bought a rubber stamp....it works great, looks great, and only takes a few seconds.....it works best if I apply it before the clear coats. I also like to add a penny or nickel from the year the piece was made.

I like that stamp - looks nice and clean, design-wise.

[chopnhack]

+1 on the stamp, may have to borrow that idea