How do I mill this

[chopnhack]

But that is a big job, no doubt.

I so cringe for the OP.... removing 500' of three piece molding.... cutting the caulk 1000 lineal feet (with ladders, etc. at least a few hours), prying it off the wall (hours upon hours if coped, if butted fewer for sure), pulling nails, sorting and labeling for reinstall in correct room and wall....

Taking mrs. out to dinner and getting her drunk enough to forget.... meh, less than an hour

GL twistol :-)

[JR]

Aaaaand, for a slightly different view...




All the cuts would be pretty simple rabbets or angled through cuts.

I'd probably make three pieces and nail it together on the wall, escpecially if the finished product is to be painted (I'd probably do it if it's going to have a clear finish, too).

JR

ps, try to imagine I can create a drawing in which the lines all relate to another at 22.5 or 45 degrees.

[LCHIEN]

I had not considered doing it that way! Might be easier to make the edge to face joints than edge to edge as in my suggestion. Or as JR suggests, you can make the joins on the wall as you assemble it (might be a lot harder to match up the compound miters at the corner though...).

[chopnhack]

If there are any variations in thickness along the length of the molding it might prove difficult to fold over... It's really good thinking, I didn't catch it at first :-)

[cabinetman]

There's no "easy" way of producing that molding that was likely done in a multi-head moulder. If you had a Woodmaster, and thick enough stock, you could get custom knives made. That would be some expensive waste coming out though. Re-purposing old moulding would be a PITA. It wasn't stated if it will be natural or painted.

If installing as a three piece moulding that was assembled with fasteners, there's the possibility of running into a fastener where a cut may be needed. Installing three pieces would be time consuming, and a bit tedious to line up, but could be done.

.