What type finish?

[Larryl]

Another small box finished, this one is soft maple and walnut with no hardware. I plan to finish with BLO and wax, but thought maybe it would look better with a shiny finish on it maybe clear shellac. What's the consensus here?

[cabinetman]

Nice looking box. I would probably go with a first application of 50% BLO and MS, and when that dries, a wiping version of an interior oil base varnish. No wax.
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[Larryl]

Thanks Cabinetman, any suggestions on the oil based varnish that I could find at the local Ace Hardware or box store?

[Richard in Smithville]

For my two cents......BLO/MS, cure for five days, Zinser amber shellac, then a few coats of WB poly.

[dbhost]

Not done anything with maple, since it is such an exotic here in Texas... But with the red oak / walnut stuff I have been doing, I typically have been using the BLO / MS stuff, let it set for about a week, do a second coat, let that cure, and then Minwax finish wax hand buffed. I like the satiny sheen...

Not sure about the Ace hardware near you, but the one I worked in through college has a pretty good selection of varnishes, shellacs, and enough oil finishes to keep any HazMat team busy....

[DrChas]

My favorite finish is an equal mix of varnish (regular or poly), good quality paint thinner, and boiled linseed oil. The mixture is thin and can be ragged on and off with no danger of drips. I put at least three layers on, sanding with very fine sand paper or steel wool between layers, and then often finish with wax. This is essentially Sam Maloof's finish.

[steve-norrell]

Here are some photos of a maple and walnut box that is finished with MinWax Seal Coat, followed by two or three coats of MinWax Fast drying poly, thinned 50/50 with thinner so it could be wiped on. I haven't tried BLO, but probably should --- one of these days.

Good luck, Steve

[Mr__Bill]

My favorite finish is an equal mix of varnish (regular or poly), good quality paint thinner, and boiled linseed oil. The mixture is thin and can be ragged on and off with no danger of drips. I put at least three layers on, sanding with very fine sand paper or steel wool between layers, and then often finish with wax. This is essentially Sam Maloof's finish.

I like this finish too. I use a slightly different formula. One part real varnish, not spar or poly, one part turpentine and one part boiled linseed oil. After the first coat I use a fine Scotch-Brite pad to apply. I like the feel of the real varnish over the others and ACE still carries it, at least the local one does. Turpentine smells better to me than MS, and I could never tell one brand of BLO from another beyond the really expensive stuff is, well, really expensive.

It takes some time for this to be applied, may have to wait a day or two, perhaps a week between coats but the end result caresses your hand when you handle the wood. I don't feel wax is necessary as it alters the feel of the finish but there is no reason why if you like it that wax can not be used. I would use a bees wax and expect to have to wax it every so often

The Scotch-Brite can be kept in a container with turpentine so the finish does not harden in the pad. You can then use the same pad until you forget and leave it out over night.....

This finish will bring out the grain and darken the wood slightly on application and then as the varnish ages it will darken more.

Here is a web site for a group of craftsmen, they make a lot of things out of burls and the above finish is what they use on most of the art.

Bill

[Larryl]

Thanks to all for your replies, I guess there is no 1 only way to finish a piece of wood. I am going to experiment (not on the box) with several of the suggestions. Steve, great looking box both construction and finish. Is that what is called quilted maple? As dbhost stated we don't have much maple available in Texas.

[steve-norrell]

Thanks to all for your replies, I guess there is no 1 only way to finish a piece of wood. I am going to experiment (not on the box) with several of the suggestions. Steve, great looking box both construction and finish. Is that what is called quilted maple? As dbhost stated we don't have much maple available in Texas.

Thanks for the compliment. I really lucked out on the maple - - I found it at the Borg. Every once in awhile a really nice piece of wood sneaks into their stock.

The box is assembled using lock miter joints, no metal anywhere. The handle on the top is fitted with dowels and the maple and walnut pieces are just glued together.

Good luck with your project. All of us will look forward to seeing photos of the finished box.

Regards, Steve