Cherry Console Plans - Can I Do It?

[91FE]

Hey Guys,

I've never built any "finished furniture" and I'm looking to change that. I'd like to make something similar to the "Cherry Console Plan" that showed up in Woodsmith No. 163. I haven't seen the issue, but I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on ordering the plan reprint here:

<edit: changed my mind, now going with this plan>

http://plansnow.com/dn1135.html

Anybody familiar with it?

The suggested necessary tools include: a table saw <check>, dado blade <check> and drill press <check>. What they don't mention are the tools I don't have... jointer and planer. Am I in the clear?

My questions are these:
1. Is it possible to build something like this without a planer, or jointer?
2. What's a ballpark material cost (Philadelphia area) for a project like this assuming the up-charge for S4S stock? I was thinking cherry, or maple... so I could finish it to match another piece of furniture in the house.

Thanks in advance,
Scott

[LCHIEN]

Hey Guys,

I've never build any "finished furniture" and I'm looking to change that. I'd like to make something similar to the "Cherry Console Plan" that showed up in Woodsmith No. 146. I haven't seen the issue, but I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on ordering the plan reprint here:

http://plansnow.com/cherryconsole.html

Anybody familiar with it?

The suggested necessary tools include: a table saw <check>, dado blade <check> and drill press <check>. What they don't mention are the tools I don't have... jointer and planer. Am I in the clear?

My questions are these:
1. Is it possible to build something like this without a planer, or jointer?
2. What's a ballpark material cost (Philadelphia area) for a project like this assuming the up-charge for S4S stock? I was thinking cherry, or maple... so I could finish it to match another piece of furniture in the house.

Thanks in advance,
Scott

Seems like if you pay the lumber yard to dimension the stock for you S4S then you don't need the jointer and planer.

For an ballpark estimate of materials cost you probably have to add up the Board foot requriement (add up the volumes of the parts on the list) and figure you need 20% to 30% extra (cutoffs, scraps, and goofs) and for starters figure about $8 per bd ft S4S kinda top end price. If that doen't totally scare you then you can start getting quotes from the hardwood dealers.

[radhak]

Allow me to be presumptious in replying before other veterans here do ; I consider myself a perpetual newbie with some hands-on experience in destroying wood...

If you buy surfaced lumber, you may not need the jointer/planer. I don't have those tools, and by paying a small premium for lumber, I have worked around that lack. Look at the internet if you don't find wood locally.

That project seems to be within my reach (and hence, yours too ). The only thing that make me pause would be the solid wood top : you might need your router to get a good joint among the planks that make up that top.

Or, you could just put a plywood top (and that gives away my 'approach').

Cost wise, you should be able to calculate ball-park figures by checking out prices at www.internetlumber.com for the boardfeet that plan asks for (plus 20% allowance for waste).

[JimD]

I like Woodsmith plans and I think the method of construction is normally something you do not need a lot of experience to execute. I am finishing up a couple of chairs for my son based upon Woodsmith plans that go with a table that was also their plans. The next project will be a queen sized bed using plans from Woodsmith.

You do not need S4S lumber, however, or a jointer even to make a large solid wood panel. I have a jointer but I do not use it for edges. I just rip them on my table saw. My son's table, for instance, is 35 inches by 47 inches of solid 5/4 oak. The top is 6 boards if I remember right and they were glued up with ripped edges. There are no visible gaps. I just rip each edge until I get an acceptable joint.

What you need is S2S which is what is normally sold. The two wide surfaces are planned, just not the edges. You remove the outer edge with the table saw - at least that's what I do.

That project looks like it uses 1/4 veneered plywood and solid wood. I would start looking for a source. I start with the yellow pages when I move to a new area. You can order wood over the net, I have, but if you can find a local dealer it is better.

Maple is a lot cheaper than cherry, at least around here. Maple should be $3-4/bd ft (square foot is same as board feet for typical 13/16 planned thickness). Cherry for me is nearly twice that. The plans look like oak which is about the same price as cherry around here (but a little easier to find).

Jim

[JR]

That would be an excellent first-time "nice" project! The scale is not too massive, but there will be a number techniques to learn and implement - drawer building, frame and panel, bevel cuts on the legs, etc. Challenging for any woodworker, but not mindboggling.

If your local lumber yard can supply S4S, or even S3S, you'd be good to go. It looks like the whole thing uses 4/4 plus plywood, so that should mitigate the risk that you'd mess up a really key piece of wood.

I might suggest avoiding cherry, though. It's a beautiful wood, but burns very easily. This leads to all sorts of finishing hassles. Maple would be a good choice, or oak if it works in your decor.

I notice the plan calls for trimmed plywood on the top and shelves, so Radhak's concern might be moot.

Have fun!
JR

[jziegler]

The biggest thing will be getting the lumber. From the picture, it looks like a relatively straightforward project.

Being near Philly, you have some good lumber options within an hour or so drive, which helps out a lot. They will probably surface the lumber for a fee, but all prices are rough. They are cheaper than internet lumber in the smaller quantities taht you will need.

Groff & Groff:

http://www.groffslumber.com/

Hearne Hardwoods:

http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/

I have not bought from either of them, but I plan to.

You might also consider Mr. Robert's Lumber in Barrington, NJ

http://www.lumber-2.com/

Looking at the exploded view, do you know if it's using plywood, or glued up panels? I can't tell, but it could be either. If it's plywood, that makes a simpler project.

Jim

[91FE]

Thanks guys. I think I'm going to give it a go.

[drumpriest]

As these guys have said, get S4S, but also use it fairly quickly. The longer the time between when something is milled and it is used, the worse it'll go. Lumber will move on you from changes in humidity of time.

If you need to glue up a top or cut mortises, check out the tutorial section..

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=27458

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=27419

When you go to glue up the wide panel, use some cauls across the grain (top and bottom) to help you pull it all into alignment, hugely saves on sanding. I have also used a local cabinet shop's wide belt sander to clean up big glue ups like that.

[poolhound]

Scott,

I agree with the OPs, you dont need the planer or jointer. If you buy surfaced stock you will be fine. If you go to a local lumber yard and have them mill it for you then do heed Keith's advice about it moving on you. If you buy from somehwere where the stock was milled and then placed on the shelf it wont b as much of an issue but do take a traight edge with you and check that what you buy is both straight and square.

[gary]

How are you planning on doing the mortise and tenons? Either by hand, router or drill press attachment will work.

Agree on the comments on doing it with S4S or S3S lumber. You should cost out rough lumber and you may find it a good business case to buy S2S and a planer too. S4S can get expensive.

[JimD]

Woodsmith normally talks about forstner bits and chisel work for mortises. I prefer a plunge router or my dedicated mortiser. If you have more patience, drilling and chiseling should work.

Jim

[don thompson]

PLans cost

Do check at your local library for magazine back issues which may be copied on site or scanned at home. Remember, as tax payers we have already paid for the magazines and
I would rather spend monye on good wood than on reprint plans.

[poolhound]

Do check at your local library for magazine back issues which may be copied on site or scanned at home. Remember, as tax payers we have already paid for the magazines and
I would rather spend monye on good wood than on reprint plans.

I have to say I tend to agree with you. I always draw up my own plans or work straight from my head in terms of process. I usually eyebal various pieces for inspiration and see how they are constructed and then incorporate things I like into my own designs. Most of the items we all make regularly (tables, cabinets, benches, built-ins, boxes etc etc) are all variations on the same theme. Its the design considerations, choice of wood and finish that makes them all different.

I do like books, mostly on design and techniques and I do get inspiration in these also. One of the books I have has a great section on basic design and construction option for all types of projects. For example when it comes to tables it highlights the various options for aprons and stretchers, breadboards and the like. It also helps with certain magic proportions and dimensions. There are no plans but it does give you a good way to review your options as you build your own concept.

[Gator95]

Looks straighforward. Planer and jointer are nice to haves, a planer is my next tool, but not essential. You just will have to use more care in selecting lumber... which isn't a problem because that project won't use that much wood. A lot depends on the quality of wood in your local lumberyard.

If you were a pro and making 10 of them in a month, then you'd need a jointer and planer because hand-selecting 200bf of wood is a pain and eats into your worktime.

[91FE]

How are you planning on doing the mortise and tenons? Either by hand, router or drill press attachment will work...

Having never cut a mortise, I figured I'd follow their suggestion and use my drill press. Maybe I should reconsider and figure out how to do it with my router???

Do check at your local library for magazine back issues which may be copied on site or scanned at home. Remember, as tax payers we have already paid for the magazines and
I would rather spend monye on good wood than on reprint plans.

That's the first place I went. Unfortunately, my ~$22/year in library tax money doesn't appear to be going into the woodworking section... and definitely not into magazine subscriptions. They had a copy of that craftsman furniture shop drawing book that I was able to photocopy a few pages from... other than that my trip was a bust.

I ended up winning an ebay auction for 25 back issues of Woodsmith... including the issue I need (I changed my mind on which table and have decided to go with this one: http://plansnow.com/dn1135.html ) I figured I'll get a lot of mileage out of the 'old' magazines... and can flip the ones I don't need/want here or back on ebay.

I have to say I tend to agree with you. I always draw up my own plans or work straight from my head in terms of process. I usually eyebal various pieces for inspiration and see how they are constructed and then incorporate things I like into my own designs. Most of the items we all make regularly (tables, cabinets, benches, built-ins, boxes etc etc) are all variations on the same theme. Its the design considerations, choice of wood and finish that makes them all different.
...

I'm going to end up changing the plan to more meet my needs. I like the style of the table, but I think I'm going to be making it slightly larger. Having never built a table (or anything decent for that matter) before, I thought it would be best to follow directions of how to do it 'right' the first time.