Question Regarding Lexan

[Im A Little Petunia]

I picked up a small piece of 3/8" Lexan (14" x 22") today, getting ready for a project I am going to start in the next couple of days. I have a question regarding the Lexan. As far as cutting on the table saw, what would be the "do or don't do" things I should be aware of? Also what type blade would you suggest? I have an Irwin, 10" crosscut, 60 AT, blade on the saw now. I have cut a few pieces of thinner Lexan with a saber saw, but with the thicker 3/8" I want to use the table saw this time around. Thanks

Lynn

[Stytooner]

Leave the protective wrap in place. Use a ZCTP if possible. Use a guard if possible. Hold down securely and feed the normal feedrate by listening to the saw.
You should have no trouble this way. That blade should do fine and leave a decent edge for gluing, but not a finished edge. It would need a lot of sanding and polishing if you wanted a finished edge.

[Im A Little Petunia]

That's what I needed to know, Lee. Thanks a lot.

Lynn

[LCHIEN]

i would almost recommend a higher than you think normal feed rate, because the plastic will melt when you go to slow and make nasty edges.

A good sharp blade of 40+ teeth is a real good idea, too.

[just started]

I find a band saw with a metal-cutting blade seems to work the best for me.

[RodKirby]

i would almost recommend a higher than you think normal feed rate, because the plastic will melt when you go to slow and make nasty edges.

A good sharp blade of 40+ teeth is a real good idea, too.

I'm with Loring on this - a little faster than normal - to reduce heating.

I have cut "a lot" of this stuff with my WWII 1/8" kerf - no problems.

BUT - expect HEAPS of gossamer "sawdust" - everywhere

(Regards from "the onion patch")

[LCHIEN]

yeah, use dust collection if you can. you're gonna have snow in july!

[cabinetman]

For a 10" table saw, I use a 60T carbide tipped blade, and have the blade high. As for feed rate, you'll feel how fast you can feed. I also recommend eye protection and if ya got it a full face shield, as there will be tiny chips thrown as you cut. If the material has a paper or plastic masking, leave that on.

Any edge build up with debris after the cut you can break right off usually within about 30 seconds after you make the cut. The edge can be scraped with a scraper, or a sharp chisel, bevel up at approximately a 60 degree angle. You can also use a narrow block of wood wrapped with sandpaper.
.

[RodKirby]

Where appropriate/possible, I also run a fine (about 1/16") chamfer along the edges - BEFORE you take off the protective covering. Not really visible in the pic...

[capncarl]

Lexan cutting on the table saw.

I have found after cutting much lexan that I get the best cut on 3/8 lexan by cutting really really slow. The 40 tooth blade is a sacrificial craftsman $10 gift, that I run about 1/4 inch higher than the material. I like the sliding miter table when possible. This way there is very little plastic dust or melting and little lexan chipping. The cut I get is as nice as the machine shops that custom cut. The edges can be beveled with a hand scraper with nice results.

Good Luck
capncarl.

[cabinetman]

I have found after cutting much lexan that I get the best cut on 3/8 lexan by cutting really really slow. The 40 tooth blade is a sacrificial craftsman $10 gift, that I run about 1/4 inch higher than the material. I like the sliding miter table when possible. This way there is very little plastic dust or melting and little lexan chipping. The cut I get is as nice as the machine shops that custom cut. The edges can be beveled with a hand scraper with nice results.

Good Luck
capncarl.

Just a comment about blade height. I've tried it both ways low/high. When the blade is high, the cutting angle is more vertical and there is less blade contact with the material versus low where the cut is longer because of more angle. There is less heat generated. With the blade high, there is less lifting of the material.
.

[Im A Little Petunia]

Thanks a lot everyone. I'm looking forward to getting started. I hadn't considered the "snow", but glad to to have a warning. My blade is a carbide tipped one. Thanks for the picture "Mr. Onion", who is from the Onion Patch! :-)

Lynn

[RodKirby]

Just a comment about blade height. I've tried it both ways low/high. When the blade is high, the cutting angle is more vertical and there is less blade contact with the material versus low where the cut is longer because of more angle. There is less heat generated. With the blade high, there is less lifting of the material.
.

Ditto......

[pelligrini]

Make sure you're wearing a shirt too. The first time I cut some on my old bench saw I found that the little chips of molten plastic didn't feel good on my belly.