Glue ups - managing squeeze out

[big tim]

There is an extensive article in the Dec. 2007 issue of 'Fine Woodworking' on glueing panels and the amount of clamping pressure required to get an optimum joint. Some of the pressure required to get the strongest possible joint is quite phenominal. It depends on the type of wood and the way it was sawn, wether it 's flatsawn or quartersawn, etc. Softer woods requiring far less pressure than hardwoods.

Tim

[drumpriest]

Most all of the techniques that I use have been covered here. I use tape, I pop off the partially set glue, and I use a hand scraper and sharp chisel to remove what's left. It sometimes depends upon the wood as well. Red Oak is notoriously bad for glue staining in my experience. I have had much more trouble with it than with maple or cherry. I would think that walnut would have issues as well.

There are times when I will seal the faces near a glue joint, being careful to not seal the edge. This can help with really pourous woods like oak. For dovetails, I scribe a line before glue-up, that helps, then tape on the line, and fully expect to hand plane the joint flush, removing excess glue with it.

I no longer use water, because it's been a real problem for me in terms of making the glue issue worse. One other trick if you have a drum sander is to leave your panels roughly over thickness purposefully. Do the glue up, then drum sand to final thickness, this will usually leave a really clean glue joint.

[LCHIEN]

For glueing up big panels - edge glueing - I normally put one board vertical, run a bead of glue down it, touch the other board to the first one to get a bit of glue on it, then lay them both down in the clamps and clamp up. I have never had a glue joint done like this fail. Sometimes I spread it out but usually I do not.
...Jim

large panels say 3/4" by 36 inches long will seldom have glue strength problems due to the 27 square inches of long-grain to long-grain gluing surface, even if the coverage is not that great.

[LarryG]

I notice a number of you talking about wiping off with a wet rag. ... Maybe I need to go for the slightly damp sponge approach as SG suggests.

Seeing Slik Geek's reply made me realize I apparently had a brain fart yesterday, because I initially wrote "damp cloth" when I really meant "damp sponge." The latter is much better. Easier to wring out nearly dry; easier to control and see what you're doing; and, if you use a sponge with square edges, easier to get into corners. I buy the kitchen-type sponges that measure about 3" x 6" x 1/2" thick and cut them into thirds.

For a water supply, I use a plastic bottle with a trigger-type sprayer. Mine is a quart size that cost about a buck and a quarter at Lowe's; or you can recycle one that originally contained window cleaner or whatever. I like a spray bottle because the water doesn't get contaminated with glue, and there's no worry about spillage if I knock it over.

[SARGE..g-47]

I use the acid brush to spread on both surfaces on edges.. a cheap bristle brush on wider. I tape DT's and other joints. I simply slap blue tape on and let it over-lap the joint without trying to place it evenly on the edge. Then.. I take a commercial razor blade with the stiff back and trim the out-line of the joint opening leaving only the tape on the outside area around it.

I don't like too little glue.. but I don't like too much and spread it evenly as mentioned above. Any glue bead that squeeze's out, I let it alone at the mement. I used to wipe it with distilled water (minerals removed), but I now prefer to let it stand. In about 15-20 minutes I check to see if the beads are just about to harden and if not wait till just before they do.

At that point I use a 1" metal putty knife held vertical (as close to 90 degreess as possible and make a sweep along the glue line popping the not quite dry glue. I have rounded off the corners of the metal putty knife to avoid catching a corner and gouging which will result in more of a problem than glue.

After the glue has dried and cured.. I make several passes with a hand held card scraper. At that point check to see if I got it all by applying naptha or mineral spirits to the surface. If glue is left.. it will be high-lighted using that method. I use the same substances just after final sanding also as any machine mark.. glue.. scratch will show up and can be eliminated before finish is applied.

[ejs1097]

I've tried all the above as well and also fret about what the glue up will do come stain/finish time.

1 problem I've found with tape (seems like the best answer doesn't it?) is not only glue seeping underneath as already described but getting it in the right place. The slightest gap between the tape and joint will leave the glue, what you are trying to avoid. but getting the tape (even slightly) in/under a joint makes it very difficult to remove all the tape and looks very bad.

I've progressed from rag to damp papertowel, and then finally tried a bucket and sponge like SG. Big improvement and what I've found works the best for me. Where a papertowl/rag will spread the glue, the sponge cleans it all up and easier to work as well.