Best way to Rabbit MDF

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  • mashtun
    Forum Newbie
    • Sep 2007
    • 77

    #1

    Best way to Rabbit MDF

    Okay I am building a couple of new Subwoofers for my HT system. I have glued up to 3/4 inch sheets of MDF to make the front panel.

    Since my woofers will have a inch of Excursion one way, I am sure the cabient will take a beating, so I want to put a rabbit around the front, and back panels to increase the glue surface to the side panels.

    The two ways to do this that come to mind, are

    1 to use my Dado set on the TS with a sacrafical fence.

    2 to use a straight router bit in my router table to make the rabbit.

    Which way would be best in everyones opinion?

    John
  • Copper
    Established Member
    • Feb 2005
    • 343
    • Madison, WI.
    • BT3100

    #2
    Either of those methods should work fine for making rabbets. Everyone kind of has their own preference. My router table is not very big, so I would use the dado set. Either way, be prepared for A LOT of dust from cutting rabbets in MDF. Make sure you have adequate dust collection and wear a mask.
    - Dennis

    "If your mind goes blank, don't forget to turn off the sound." --Red Green
    and yes, it's a potato.

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    • LarryG
      The Full Monte
      • May 2004
      • 6693
      • Off The Back
      • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

      #3
      Coke vs Pepsi, Ford vs Chevy, Lowes vs HD. Both methods are equally good and it largely comes down to personal preference.

      When working with MDF, which is notoriously hard on carbide, I tend to do more operations with a router because I can use inexpensive bits and toss them when they wear out.
      Larry

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      • Uncle Cracker
        The Full Monte
        • May 2007
        • 7091
        • Sunshine State
        • BT3000

        #4
        Use the TS with a straight blade to cut a rabbet (2 cuts per) and you'll end up with a chunk of scrap, instead of a mountain of nasty dust, like you would with a dado set.

        Comment

        • LinuxRandal
          Veteran Member
          • Feb 2005
          • 4890
          • Independence, MO, USA.
          • bt3100

          #5
          Originally posted by LarryG
          Coke vs Pepsi, Ford vs Chevy, Lowes vs HD. Both methods are equally good and it largely comes down to personal preference.

          When working with MDF, which is notoriously hard on carbide, I tend to do more operations with a router because I can use inexpensive bits and toss them when they wear out.


          The router bits played a factor originally for me. That plus an edge guide (no table required), made more sense as I have a small shop. But the real question is, which do you feel more comfortable with?
          She couldn't tell the difference between the escape pod, and the bathroom. We had to go back for her.........................Twice.

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          • footprintsinconc
            Veteran Member
            • Nov 2006
            • 1759
            • Roseville (Sacramento), CA
            • BT3100

            #6
            you could use a jointer/planer, if you have one. it worked fine for me.
            _________________________
            omar

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            • cabinetman
              Gone but not Forgotten RIP
              • Jun 2006
              • 15216
              • So. Florida
              • Delta

              #7
              My preference in doing dadoes and rabbets is to use a router instead of a TS and a stack set. It's much more difficult to hold down the stock than to run a router over it. As for bits, I don't use inexpensive anything, it doesn't pay. The results will prove that out. You can use a straight bit, or a rabbeting bit with a bearing.

              Comment

              • mashtun
                Forum Newbie
                • Sep 2007
                • 77

                #8
                Best way to Rabbit MDF

                Originally posted by Uncle Cracker
                Use the TS with a straight blade to cut a rabbet (2 cuts per) and you'll end up with a chunk of scrap, instead of a mountain of nasty dust, like you would with a dado set.
                I never thought of doing that. I am not sure how well I could run a 24 inch by 24 inch piece of 1 and 1/2 inch MDF though on its end.

                John

                Comment

                • mashtun
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Sep 2007
                  • 77

                  #9
                  Best way to Rabbit MDF

                  Originally posted by footprintsinconc
                  you could use a jointer/planer, if you have one. it worked fine for me.
                  I have both, but how could you use them to do a rabbit?

                  John

                  Comment

                  • LCHIEN
                    Super Moderator
                    • Dec 2002
                    • 21995
                    • Katy, TX, USA.
                    • BT3000 vintage 1999

                    #10
                    Originally posted by mashtun
                    I have both, but how could you use them to do a rabbit?

                    John
                    Most of the free-standing jointers (e.g. what they call a jointer/planer) have a rabbetting ledge. Read your jointer manual.

                    As for Router vs table saw, I prefer the table saw for long (more than a few inches) rabbets.
                    Last edited by LCHIEN; 10-31-2007, 10:44 AM.
                    Loring in Katy, TX USA
                    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                    Comment

                    • Uncle Cracker
                      The Full Monte
                      • May 2007
                      • 7091
                      • Sunshine State
                      • BT3000

                      #11
                      Originally posted by mashtun
                      I never thought of doing that. I am not sure how well I could run a 24 inch by 24 inch piece of 1 and 1/2 inch MDF though on its end.

                      John
                      It helps if you have, or can rig up, a tall auxiliary fence for your TS. Holding the board tight against the fence and saw is the most important thing. Any grooving due to blade height adjustment will not be visible.

                      Comment

                      • LCHIEN
                        Super Moderator
                        • Dec 2002
                        • 21995
                        • Katy, TX, USA.
                        • BT3000 vintage 1999

                        #12
                        probably too late, but why don't you "rabbet" it by laminating the layers with 3/4" smaller piece on the inside of the lamination. Actually 2 x 3/4" (or 3/4" on each side).
                        You can use a 3/4" setup bar for setting the offsets perfectly.
                        Loring in Katy, TX USA
                        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                        Comment

                        • RodKirby
                          Veteran Member
                          • Dec 2002
                          • 3136
                          • Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
                          • Mao Shan TSC-10RAS

                          #13
                          Router table + straight spiral upcut + good DC = success!

                          Been doing it for YEARS
                          Downunder ... 1" = 25.4mm

                          Comment

                          • JimD
                            Veteran Member
                            • Feb 2003
                            • 4187
                            • Lexington, SC.

                            #14
                            I almost always use my table saw. A router would probably work OK if you cut most of the material away either with multiple passes or with the table saw and use the router for cleanup. A router bit has comparitively little pieces of carbide so cutting something like MDF will dull the bit much quicker than a dado set. I also feel more confident in the fence of the BT3100 guiding the wood appropriately. I like little dados on the router table but not big ones - BT3100 has more power in addition to the slower wear rate of a dado set (my router table has an old Ryobi R500, 13.3A).

                            Jim

                            Comment

                            • ragswl4
                              Veteran Member
                              • Jan 2007
                              • 1559
                              • Winchester, Ca
                              • C-Man 22114

                              #15
                              Originally posted by RodKirby
                              Router table + straight spiral upcut + good DC = success!

                              Been doing it for YEARS

                              Base on the quality of Rod's MDF projects I would go with his suggestion, seems he has a ton of experience working with MDF. Oh Yeah, good DC, maybe even EXCELLENT DC, tons of dust.
                              RAGS
                              Raggy and Me in San Felipe
                              sigpic

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