Even though I dont have a router table (except for the BT3K), I decided to make a router table fence. The design is my own. I am not looking for kudos, but I am looking for constructive criticism. The fence is made from Ύ Baltic Birch (Borg style), Ό hardboard, 3 small pieces of oak, and Ό toilet bolts with wing nuts and washers. It is larger than most, at 46 long, 4 7/8 high, and the base is also 4 7/8 wide.
The main fence: My plywood was not totally flat, so I face glued 2 pieces together after flipping 1 piece over to create a small gap in the middle, while the ends touched. I thought pulling the middle of the boards together would result in a flat fence because the outward forces on the 2 pieces would cancel each other. It seems to have worked.
Sliding fence and T track: Ύ plywood X 4 7/8 high X 46 long.
On 1 side, I routed a groove ½ wide, and Ό deep, centered 1 from the top, all the way through from end to end. I flipped the piece over, then routed an identical groove, centered 2 from the bottom. A piece of Ό hardboard was then glued to both faces, hiding the grooves I routed. After the glue dried, I cut a 5/16 wide piece out of the hardboard, centered on the ½ grooves. This resulted in a T track on each side of the fence.
A 2 wide piece was ripped off the top, leaving me with a T track, centered in the piece. This piece was then glued to the face of the main fence, with the tops aligned.
I ripped about Ό off the bottom of the remaining piece, which would become the sliding fences. This was ripped to allow easy sliding of the fences, and allow clearance for dust at the bottom. This piece was then cut into (2) 23 pieces.
Base: The base was attached to the main fence, while using 90 degree oak supports. The main fence and the base were screwed to the support pieces with countersunk 2 screws. Glue was not used in case it became necessary to adjust because it was not a true 90 degree fit.
Finished fence: I expect the fence to work just fine.
The sliding fences slide easily, and allow them to be set very close to the router bits. Although you cant see this in the pics, when the sliding fences are open, there is 1 of depth to enclose a bit before it hits the main fence. If more depth is needed, a piece will need to be cut from the main fence to allow room for the bit.
The T track on the top of the fence should work very nicely to hold featherboards, bit guards, etc.
Problem building T tracks: Even though I was very careful not to use too much glue close to the grooves, I still had a little squeeze out. This made it difficult for the toilet bolts to slide in the tracks. I wound up grinding the heads of the toilet bolts nearly round, with just a little stock left to grab the hardboard in the T track. This worked out nicely.
If you have any constructive criticism, please let me have it. I learn that way.
"t" track detail
Router table fence pieces
fences opened
showing "T" track on extended wing
side view
The main fence: My plywood was not totally flat, so I face glued 2 pieces together after flipping 1 piece over to create a small gap in the middle, while the ends touched. I thought pulling the middle of the boards together would result in a flat fence because the outward forces on the 2 pieces would cancel each other. It seems to have worked.
Sliding fence and T track: Ύ plywood X 4 7/8 high X 46 long.
On 1 side, I routed a groove ½ wide, and Ό deep, centered 1 from the top, all the way through from end to end. I flipped the piece over, then routed an identical groove, centered 2 from the bottom. A piece of Ό hardboard was then glued to both faces, hiding the grooves I routed. After the glue dried, I cut a 5/16 wide piece out of the hardboard, centered on the ½ grooves. This resulted in a T track on each side of the fence.
A 2 wide piece was ripped off the top, leaving me with a T track, centered in the piece. This piece was then glued to the face of the main fence, with the tops aligned.
I ripped about Ό off the bottom of the remaining piece, which would become the sliding fences. This was ripped to allow easy sliding of the fences, and allow clearance for dust at the bottom. This piece was then cut into (2) 23 pieces.
Base: The base was attached to the main fence, while using 90 degree oak supports. The main fence and the base were screwed to the support pieces with countersunk 2 screws. Glue was not used in case it became necessary to adjust because it was not a true 90 degree fit.
Finished fence: I expect the fence to work just fine.
The sliding fences slide easily, and allow them to be set very close to the router bits. Although you cant see this in the pics, when the sliding fences are open, there is 1 of depth to enclose a bit before it hits the main fence. If more depth is needed, a piece will need to be cut from the main fence to allow room for the bit.
The T track on the top of the fence should work very nicely to hold featherboards, bit guards, etc.
Problem building T tracks: Even though I was very careful not to use too much glue close to the grooves, I still had a little squeeze out. This made it difficult for the toilet bolts to slide in the tracks. I wound up grinding the heads of the toilet bolts nearly round, with just a little stock left to grab the hardboard in the T track. This worked out nicely.
If you have any constructive criticism, please let me have it. I learn that way.
"t" track detail
Router table fence pieces
fences opened
showing "T" track on extended wing
side view
I was thinking about either clamping it or making slots (for adjustment) in the base to use with threaded inserts and threaded stock with knobs. For edge jointing, it would be simple put a shim between the sliding fence and the main fence when I loosen the wing nut (outfeed only). Dust collection is another thing I'm considering, as well as being able to adjust the fence(s) using the toilet bolts and nuts.
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