Anybody ever use pine for furiture?

[lcm1947]

I guess it's the cheap skate in me but I am going to build several tables for some of my table top tools and rather then use oak or some expensive wood like that I am thinking about pine. The style of table plans I have calls for just using solid wood, no sheet goods so that's why I'm asking about pine. I know pine will dent easier but maybe with several layers of poly for protection it'll hold up OK. Another concern is appearances. Does pine stain well? I was going to build a coffee table but decided to hone my abilities some what before attempting an indoor piece of furniture and the table design I'll be for my tools will be very much along the same lines that the coffee table calls for. So I guess I'm kind of practicing for the big one this way.

[Ken Massingale]

I like working with Pine, Mac. I don't stain, but Pine can blotch unless sealed before staining. I prefer to finish it with wiped on Shellac, sometimes topcoated with Poly for additional protection. If top coating Shellac with oil based finishes, use dewaxed Shellac (Sealcoat).
Here's one example I did a few years ago:

[Richard in Smithville]

If you want to use a less expensive wood for your table top tools, why not look into a lowwer grade of lumber. I made many work tops from reclaimed construction materials.

Another way you can stain pine is by using a pre-stain(actual product). This stuff soaks into the pine and helps to even out how the coloured stain will absorb into the pine and reduce "blotching".

[WoodButcher26]

I posted a picture of the entertainment center that I finished last month, done entirely out of pine. One of the problems that I had was in building, little bumps that would not have fazed oak or maple would leave an edge dinged or a corner dented on the pine. I had to replace one piece after it sat on the bottom of a stack of parts and was canted a bit, just the weight of the stack created a ridge on the bottom piece in the stack. I think it would have steamed out, but I worried about it showing through the finish.

Like others, I prefer not to stain pine, I like the look of it with a natural finish. In my case, about six coats of poly with sanding between each. I have stained before with mixed results, better luck with gel stain than liquid.


Kim

[lcm1947]

Well thanks for the replies gentlemen. It looks like I won't stain then. So three thick coats of brush on poly to give it some protection from dings. Do you suppose using a good quality brush over a cheap one makes any difference on poly? You know as far as streaks and such? It'll probably be water based poly by the way.

[Popeye]

You can stain, just use a conditioner as a first coat. It will help the stain go on evenly. My preference is is amber shellac for pine but that's just me. I've built a ton of stuff from pine and 2x framing lumber over the years and love it. Currently I'm working on a pair of cafe/saloon doors made from pine 2x and knotty pine beaded paneling. Should be done by Thanksgiving I hope. Pat

[Black wallnut]

pine stained....'nuff said?

[lcm1947]

Thanks Pappy. I would like to stain it if I could cause to me anyway pine is just so -well, blonde, so with your comment I'll fork out the money on some stain and conditioner and test it on scrape and see if that suits me. So shellac is a conditioner then? I know I've seen stuff called conditioner or maybe it was called sanding conditioner but that would be different then shellac I'm assuming but would serve the same purpose? I know I have a million questions - sorry.

[SARGE..g-47]

Southern yellow pine for tool table bases is an excellent choice. It's actually qiute dense for soft-wood and will take a lickin'. Remember that it's a tool table your building. My assembly table base, base or 12" curve BS, base for planer are made of southern pine laminated with 3 coats of Porch and Floor paint on them. They will be around long after me..

I built a kitchen table in haste after my first marriage which left me with a set of cracked coffee cups. ha.. ha... Made from ponderosa pine I had hanging around. Three coats of poly and it survived teen-agers and their tendency to protest by slamming the ends of forks and table knives butt end on the table top. It's still there.. even though the First Lady has requistioned a new, heavy white oak country kitchen table which is currently in my shop in various phases.

So.. do I feel you can use pine for tables of any type? You betcha as I have never noticed food taste different on a pine table than oak, cherry or walnut one! he..........

Regards...

[Wood_workur]

I'm building a blanket chest out of pine. It looks great.

[Popeye]

Thanks Pappy. I would like to stain it if I could cause to me anyway pine is just so -well, blonde, so with your comment I'll fork out the money on some stain and conditioner and test it on scrape and see if that suits me. So shellac is a conditioner then? I know I've seen stuff called conditioner or maybe it was called sanding conditioner but that would be different then shellac I'm assuming but would serve the same purpose? I know I have a million questions - sorry.

Shellac is not a conditioner. I was just saying that's my preference for a finish coat. With Shellac you don't need a conditioner. Sorry I didn't mean to confuse the issue. Pat
PS: Pappy hasn't chimed in yet but I'm sure if he does it will be with good advice. Pat

[LinuxRandal]

I like working with Pine, Mac. I don't stain, but Pine can blotch unless sealed before staining. I prefer to finish it with wiped on Shellac, sometimes topcoated with Poly for additional protection. If top coating Shellac with oil based finishes, use dewaxed Shellac (Sealcoat).
Here's one example I did a few years ago:

Ken, what did you use for those pegs?

[lcm1947]

Well I am fixin to go buy the lumber for at least one of my benches today and it's going to be pine thanks to you guys. I had my doubts about pine but I think it'll do just fine. Oh and Ken, yesterday when I first read your post the picture didn't load but today it did and that convinced me that pine looks just fine without stain although I think I will play around with stain to see what I can do on another of the benches. Thanks for the help gentlemen.

[Ken Massingale]

Ken, what did you use for those pegs?

Walnut.
ken

[gjat]

I like to use the term 'fisically efficient', not cheap.
I've built a good bit of furniture out of pine over the years because it is cheap and relatively easy to work with. You aren't going to build furniture that will last 100 years, but it beats the **** out of MDF or cardboard.

Back in the day, before I could even afford a table saw, I've built 2 captain's beds (beds w/ shelf head boards and drawers underneath), book shelf w/ toybox, and a toy box out of pine for my kids. One bed is 18 years old, the other is 16 years old. They have not cracked, split, come apart, or needed repair. (Yes, I do have girls, but they jumped on the beds sometimes too!)

There is nothing wrong with pine. As far as staining, avoid changing the color too much. I've learned to use wood sealer, even fine grain sanding, and light stains and get great results. It does not have to be perfect, just look good and be useable.

I equate it to building cars. If you can build a Yugo in your garage for $500 and drive it for 2 years, why kick yourself you can't build a Mercedes for $25,000 and drive it for 6 years when you are going to put the same miles on each year? I swear I could build like Norm if I had $200,000 worth of tools in my Shop and could spend $800 on lumber for a bed.