I've built a small pumphouse type structure in the yard and I need to finish the roof. Its a gentlly sloped PT plywood roof, approx 2'x2'. I could buy a box of asphalt shingles but I hate the thought of buying 50 when I need 3. Any other ideas?
A little roof
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How about a package of cedar shakes?
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
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Check at the box stores. Many times, there's a pack of shingles busted open, damaged or otherwise unsellable. Tell the mgr. that you only need a couple, and he'll probably hook you up....eight, nine, TEN! Yep! Still got all my fingers!Comment
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Too bad you are not closer to me, I just finished building and roofing a storage shed and have half a pack of shingles left over.John HunterComment
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Thanks for the ideas. I don't like the looks of the corrugated stuff much, the cedar shake shingles might be available but I don't really know how to use them (yea, I'm sure google would teach me). As for busted packages, yea, always; same as with nails for nail guns, hard to find one that's not busted open. Never thought of asking manager, likely would take an hour to get to talk to one, Borgs here are massive, constantly pack-crowed, like anthills
Good ideas though, thanks again!
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That's a thought. Thanks!Originally posted by WayneJBeing that its so small, how about sheet copper. The kind thats used for flashing.Any roofing supply stores nere you.
WayneComment
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Cedar shakes would look a lot classier than asphalt composition shingles.Originally posted by wreckwriterThanks for the ideas. I don't like the looks of the corrugated stuff much, the cedar shake shingles might be available but I don't really know how to use them (yea, I'm sure google would teach me). As for busted packages, yea, always; same as with nails for nail guns, hard to find one that's not busted open. Never thought of asking manager, likely would take an hour to get to talk to one, Borgs here are massive, constantly pack-crowed, like anthills
Good ideas though, thanks again!
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Is the installation fairly simple? I've never used them nor even seen a roof done with them.Originally posted by LCHIENCedar shakes would look a lot classier than asphalt composition shingles.Comment
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yeah, they are usually used for siding, but I bet they would work for a roof. all you need is a hammer, and a block plane helps to get thigs to fit just right.Originally posted by wreckwriterIs the installation fairly simple? I've never used them nor even seen a roof done with them.
just nail them in, and stagger the seams. (no overlapping seams for 3 rows)AlexComment
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From bob vila:
The traditional way to install shakes and shingles is called single coursing. Each piece of siding is attached so that it covers about half of the one below it. Only two nails are used to secure each shake or shingle and are spaced so that the following course covers them. This is the common way homes were shingled on the East Coast.
http://www.cedarbureau.org/installat...ual/page04.htm
My advice:
How much of this you need to do for an uninhabited, non environment controlled pumphouse is a question.
I would think you are not worried about minor water ingress, air tightness, etc. The cedar shake shingles are open in the sunlight - you can see daylight throught the seams when standing in the attic, but when it rains, it swells enough that it closes up and keeps the rain out. So, both ventilates the attic in hot dry times and seals in bad weather.
For your application, the plywood sheathing base is fine,
If you wish some roofing felt on the first 30 inches... (may be your whole roof if I remember the dimensions...) but i think for you it would be optional.
you need a package of shakes, start at the bottom and overhang the fascia and sides by about an inch. use two nails per shake, about 1/4 down from the top (thin end). Alternate so the seams don't line up. Overlap by about half the length, for each course (row).
My house had a ridge row to the peak. This was like a shingle or shake split lengthwise and stapled together where split to make a "V". The V was placed and nailed to the peak of the house covering the top edges and nails of the top course. The ridge row was overlapped thick edge over the thin edge across the peak of the house - its grain ran 90° to the rest of the shakes.
Don't use too many nails, it interferes with the ability of the shake to expand and contract. You probably have to shorten the top course of shingles, given how short your roof is. Nails should only show on the ridge row when you are done.
Cedar starts out reddish tan and weathers, without treatment to a silver gray. It should last at least 15 years.
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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LCHIEN
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