Originally posted by LCHIEN
From bob vila:
The traditional way to install shakes and shingles is called single coursing. Each piece of siding is attached so that it covers about half of the one below it. Only two nails are used to secure each shake or shingle and are spaced so that the following course covers them. This is the common way homes were shingled on the East Coast.
http://www.cedarbureau.org/installat...ual/page04.htm
My advice:
How much of this you need to do for an uninhabited, non environment controlled pumphouse is a question.
I would think you are not worried about minor water ingress, air tightness, etc. The cedar shake shingles are open in the sunlight - you can see daylight throught the seams when standing in the attic, but when it rains, it swells enough that it closes up and keeps the rain out. So, both ventilates the attic in hot dry times and seals in bad weather.
For your application, the plywood sheathing base is fine,
If you wish some roofing felt on the first 30 inches... (may be your whole roof if I remember the dimensions...) but i think for you it would be optional.
you need a package of shakes, start at the bottom and overhang the fascia and sides by about an inch. use two nails per shake, about 1/4 down from the top (thin end). Alternate so the seams don't line up. Overlap by about half the length, for each course (row).
My house had a ridge row to the peak. This was like a shingle or shake split lengthwise and stapled together where split to make a "V". The V was placed and nailed to the peak of the house covering the top edges and nails of the top course. The ridge row was overlapped thick edge over the thin edge across the peak of the house - its grain ran 90° to the rest of the shakes.
Don't use too many nails, it interferes with the ability of the shake to expand and contract. You probably have to shorten the top course of shingles, given how short your roof is. Nails should only show on the ridge row when you are done.
Cedar starts out reddish tan and weathers, without treatment to a silver gray. It should last at least 15 years.
The traditional way to install shakes and shingles is called single coursing. Each piece of siding is attached so that it covers about half of the one below it. Only two nails are used to secure each shake or shingle and are spaced so that the following course covers them. This is the common way homes were shingled on the East Coast.
http://www.cedarbureau.org/installat...ual/page04.htm
My advice:
How much of this you need to do for an uninhabited, non environment controlled pumphouse is a question.
I would think you are not worried about minor water ingress, air tightness, etc. The cedar shake shingles are open in the sunlight - you can see daylight throught the seams when standing in the attic, but when it rains, it swells enough that it closes up and keeps the rain out. So, both ventilates the attic in hot dry times and seals in bad weather.
For your application, the plywood sheathing base is fine,
If you wish some roofing felt on the first 30 inches... (may be your whole roof if I remember the dimensions...) but i think for you it would be optional.
you need a package of shakes, start at the bottom and overhang the fascia and sides by about an inch. use two nails per shake, about 1/4 down from the top (thin end). Alternate so the seams don't line up. Overlap by about half the length, for each course (row).
My house had a ridge row to the peak. This was like a shingle or shake split lengthwise and stapled together where split to make a "V". The V was placed and nailed to the peak of the house covering the top edges and nails of the top course. The ridge row was overlapped thick edge over the thin edge across the peak of the house - its grain ran 90° to the rest of the shakes.
Don't use too many nails, it interferes with the ability of the shake to expand and contract. You probably have to shorten the top course of shingles, given how short your roof is. Nails should only show on the ridge row when you are done.
Cedar starts out reddish tan and weathers, without treatment to a silver gray. It should last at least 15 years.
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