Other Than Ryobi

[gsmittle]

First and still in use is my BT3100. I have a vintage Jet (the blue color) 10" cabinet saw sitting in a corner of my shop. I need to swap the 3-phase motor for a single-phase.

g.

[cabinetman]

First and still in use is my BT3100. I have a vintage Jet (the blue color) 10" cabinet saw sitting in a corner of my shop. I need to swap the 3-phase motor for a single-phase.

g.

If you do swap out, and you like the Jet better, will you keep both saws?

.

[3thumbs]

A Rockwell 8" table top was my first saw 35 years ago. I "upgraded" to an aluminum topped Craftsman saw about 8 years ago, when I got more serious about woodworking. I quickly realized that it wasn't the tool that I needed, so I bought the last Delta 979 contractor's saw at my local Lowes about 7 1/2 years ago. It is very accurate and and heavy but moves easily to put my car away when I am finished at the end of the day.

[toolguy1000]

First and still in use is my BT3100. I have a vintage Jet (the blue color) 10" cabinet saw sitting in a corner of my shop. I need to swap the 3-phase motor for a single-phase.

g.

if you've ever thought about keepiing the 3 phase motor, this post from sawmillcreek.org might be of interest:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...aw-using-a-VFD

i think the vfd the OP used was <$200 and permitted the OP to determine the saw's spool up and shutdown time and it's operating RPM (?). no opinion on this, just trying to pass on information that might be helpful.

[thiggy]

I, like cwsmith started with an Emerson built 1974 Craftsman RAS. I used it successfully for years. I built 8' infeed and outfeed tables and used it mostly for cross cutting, but also a fair amount of ripping. I guess I didn't realize how dangerous ripping on a RAS could be until years later when I started following woodworking forums on the internet. I suppose around 1980 I purchased a Craftsman (Emerson, too) 10" contractors saw. With it's cast iron table and two cast iron wings, it has been a very good saw. I have not had any difficulty keeping everything flat and square. I have an Inline Industries Dubby Cross Cut Sled that I purchased several years ago and have used it for the precision it gives me. Oh, yes, I still have the RAS, but it seems that the infeed and outfeed tables are nearly always cluttered up with various things making it difficult to get to for its intended purpose.

[cabinetman]

I, like cwsmith started with an Emerson built 1974 Craftsman RAS. I used it successfully for years. I built 8' infeed and outfeed tables and used it mostly for cross cutting, but also a fair amount of ripping. I guess I didn't realize how dangerous ripping on a RAS could be until years later when I started following woodworking forums on the internet. I suppose around 1980 I purchased a Craftsman (Emerson, too) 10" contractors saw. With it's cast iron table and two cast iron wings, it has been a very good saw. I have not had any difficulty keeping everything flat and square. I have an Inline Industries Dubby Cross Cut Sled that I purchased several years ago and have used it for the precision it gives me. Oh, yes, I still have the RAS, but it seems that the infeed and outfeed tables are nearly always cluttered up with various things making it difficult to get to for its intended purpose.

I've usually maintained two RAS's. One dedicated set up for 90 degree crosscuts, and another for angle cuts. And yes, I don't rip on one or recommend that option.

.

[durango dude]

My first "table saw" was a Sears circular saw, mounted upside-down on plywood, hung between saw horses. I used this set-up to build a hobby/craft table for my kids. The unit was set for just one thickness, which is all I needed.

The only other saw I've ever had is my Shopsmith (use this for my adjustable dado - which is fairly rare).

[barry33781@yahoo.com]

What table saw or saws do you have or had other than a Ryobi/Sears equivalent?

.

I have owned several bt 3000 and bt 3100 table saws. My first table saw that I bought, I have owned for over 30 years. It is a Rockwell motorized 8 inch table saw. Model 34-205. It is light weight, easy to use for simple jobs. I only had to replace a bearing in the motor at a cost of $4.00. I modified a sears miter gage to work with this saw. I also replaced a plastic part in the rip fence with a milled alum. block.

[barry33781@yahoo.com]

I still have and use my 8 inch Rockwell. I had a BT 3000 and have a BT 3100. The Rockwell is useful for small jobs. Of course, the Ryobi is much better and I prefer to use it. I have extension tables for the Rockwell. I mounted a router under one.

[cwsmith]

Thiggy and Cabinetman,

Regarding your RAS usage. My RAS is now dedicated to crosscutting and to make that as efficient as possible, my fence is now fixed (no longer considered readily expendable) with a T-like back brace, aluminam channel, measuring tape with an adjustable stop.

With a 4-ft outfeed and a support stand for feeding up to 14 ft of stock. For me, any angle cuts that I need are most always for shorter pieces, less than 3 ft or so.

So, I don't want to be constantly changing the angle of my arm and slashing up the existing fence or changing it out to do such cuts. To that end, I have a large 45-triangle (about 18 inches per side) that I use to position stock. And for other angles, I simple use a digital bevel to setup a guide rest which gets clamped to the table. That way, the arm always remains at it's 90-degree position with the fence.

Oh, for ripping stock I used to plug into a moveable switch box, so I could keep it at hand as I'm feeding... just in case I stall the saw.

I hope this is helpful,

CWS

[cabinetman]

Thiggy and Cabinetman,

Regarding your RAS usage. My RAS is now dedicated to crosscutting and to make that as efficient as possible, my fence is now fixed (no longer considered readily expendable) with a T-like back brace, aluminam channel, measuring tape with an adjustable stop.

With a 4-ft outfeed and a support stand for feeding up to 14 ft of stock. For me, any angle cuts that I need are most always for shorter pieces, less than 3 ft or so.

So, I don't want to be constantly changing the angle of my arm and slashing up the existing fence or changing it out to do such cuts. To that end, I have a large 45-triangle (about 18 inches per side) that I use to position stock. And for other angles, I simple use a digital bevel to setup a guide rest which gets clamped to the table. That way, the arm always remains at it's 90-degree position with the fence.

Oh, for ripping stock I used to plug into a moveable switch box, so I could keep it at hand as I'm feeding... just in case I stall the saw.

I hope this is helpful,

CWS

I don't use the RAS for ripping at all. I'm like you, I have one that stays set up for 90°. A second RAS is used for angled cuts.

.