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Jim, what's the name of the program. You can PM me if you'd like. My parents are currently designing their retirement home and the flat drawings from their architect aren't doing it for them. I offered to do it in Sketchup but it's not simple to resize a room, etc. We have a 3D printer at work. I was going to pass the sketchup to the 3D modeling slicer and print out their house.
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Wow, that saddle valve was toast!!!
Paul, your kitchen has quite a few restrictions! I would strongly suggest taking the Mrs. appliance shopping now before anything gets built and make sure she likes the fridge, then take measurements of the physical fridge on display to take home and compare with your wall and other areas. Don't overlook small things like baseboard! Baseboard only being 1/2" thick can sometimes make the difference between something fitting or not. It almost happened to me
I think in straight lines, but dream in curves
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I also am remodeling a kitchen and met with the electrician this week. He said the latest code will not allow a dishwasher to be hard wired. They plug in and can sometimes have a switch to kill the current.
ConwaygolferComment
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This is the software I purchased but still haven't installed:
We are still in frantic fix-up mode. My wife is nervous about kids coming for Thanksgiving (mine) and a Christmas party for our Sunday School class in early December. Last weekend was legs on the dock (floats need replaced, probably some added), old water softener removal, new water softener + lots of new light figures and door and other knobs purchased, new water softener installed, very old toilet with non-funtional shutoff re-gutted, and a bunch (but not all) new hardware installed. Wife was painting and removing wall paper. It looks better but there is still several weekends work left but only one left. We need a whole house filter for the water too, we find, which is another significant installation job for me. At least I am getting the safety and near emergency stuff done and moving to the more cosmetic. It will get done, just not as quickly or easily as we want. Then the drawing program and some big projects start. Hopefully a little fishing along the way (but not while the wife is so concerned about the status).
The kitchen plan looks good to me given the constraints - and I'm glad to see you did the sketches. My only comment is that you can reduce the amount frig protrudes by using 2x2s in the wall behind it when it is not structural. The frig in the house we're selling in the spring (after we get done moving) is recessed that way to get it out of a doorway (which the builder put in the wrong spot).
JimComment
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Thanks for the software link, Jim.
I posed the question of reducing the wall thickness on another forum but in the process determined that it wouldn't do me much good. This cavity is already pretty deep. I think 28".
What seems most important for placing a fridge is to have the side that is adjacent to the fridge hinge be even with or shorter than the main cabinet of the fridge. If the fridge opening is pushed inside that imaginary line, the doors won't fully open. We're probably going to get a French door fridge with freezer on the bottom. According to manufacturer specs, none of the ones we're looking at have cabinets deeper than 28".
I buttoned up the drywall on both sides of that wall this weekend. I hope to mud and paint that whole space this week. Luckily it will all be behind a fridge and cabinets. I suck at mudding.
The opposite wall is another story. I suggested to my wife that she should find a good wall hanging.Comment
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I sand too much but I can make seams that are not visible. I like to use a stainless steel pan but my wife likes her plastic with stainless inserts. We both like large trowels for the finish coat on flat seams. Screw heads and first coat for other things can be done with a six inch knife, my favorite. But second and third coats over paper or mesh tape (we both think mesh is a lot easier to use) need 10 or even 12 inch knives - to taper it out and make it invisible. Wifey and I disagree on mud. She likes the stuff from the bucket. I like it to for convenience but I like to use the stuff sold dry for patching jobs and other small things. It's biggest advantage is it sets up much quicker. It's other advantage is water resistance. Big pain is mixing it up.
Another biggie is not to mess with it. Lots of things are better dealt with by sanding or another coat.Last edited by JimD; 11-18-2013, 04:47 PM.Comment
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I too like the dry mud, my trick for quick mixing is to chuck up a pain mixer into my cordless drill and add the powder to the water, give it a quick spin and your ready to go. I haven't messed with hand mixing the stuff in years and never do unless I need a tiny amount. The paint mixer gets it so consistent, its like it came out of the bucket
Paul, practice and +1 with what Jim already said. Of course if you don't like it, for about $30 you can get a hopper and spray a texture coat ;-)I think in straight lines, but dream in curvesComment
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I actually have a bag of dry mud in the attic. Not sure if the stuff goes bad but I guess I'll found out soon enough. At least 4 years old.
I could go for Cape Cod style and beadboard everything.Comment
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I don't think it goes bad. I've got a bag of 90 minute that is at least 5 years old and worked fine last time I tried it. It is also usually usable for longer than the time on the bag. I most recently used 20 minute stuff and it was usable for over half an hour. My typical job with the dry is less than one mud pan of mud. So I put a little water in the bottom of the pan and mix with a taping knife. It isn't the easiest or best way to mix it but it works and it doesn't get additional equipment dirty. It's ready to sand roughly 2 to 3 times the bag time - about an hour for 20 minute dry.Comment
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Keep another bucket full of water next to your mixing station and just spin the dirty paddle in the clean water, usually gets most of the fresh mud off, leave it sitting in until you need your next batch or until end of day. I learned this from flooring crews, watching them mixing thinset. The batch is also more consistent in texture. Do whatever works for you, each to their own.
As for expiry, the bags do go bad after awhile, it depends on humidity and dew point temps. Remember, the main ingredient is Plaster of Paris... if kept dry and cool or room temp, then yes its probably good for a long time. Up in an attic? I would say for $10 its worth getting a fresh bag.Last edited by chopnhack; 11-19-2013, 09:08 PM.I think in straight lines, but dream in curvesComment
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I think dry is the important part. If water gets to it then it is time to throw it out. Mine was stored in a basement but it was dry. But it is cheap. The trip to the store is more the issue than the cost.
My wife also likes the "fast and final" lightweight spackle. It dries quickly, small repairs can be painted near immediately. I prefer it for final touch up with something more solid under it.Comment
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4+ year old plaster in a bag still good. My skills at plastering 4+ years later, still bad.
Luckily last time I did this, I got one of those water/vacuum sanding kits. At least I won't have to work in a cloud when I sand this all back.Comment
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Been busy in the kitchen. Finished the drywall, mud, and painting.
I peeled off the sheet vinyl yesterday. Thank goodness the glue had pretty much failed over the whole floor. It came up in nice, big sheets and there was practically no scraping to do!
I debated whether to lay the new floor under areas getting new cabinets but the instructions explicitly say not to. I did decide to pull the dishwasher and lay flooring there. Looks like getting the dishwasher back in won't be a problem. Mice have also been using the dishwasher space as a bathroom and throughway. I closed off open sections behind the cabinets and stuffed steel wool into the holes where the plumbing and electric enter. I also decided not to add an outlet for the dishwasher. Disconnecting the electric is the easy part. Getting at the drain is a little trickier.
Anyway, here's the dishwasher about to go in. I'm using "luxury" vinyl plank flooring from HD. Once you figure it out, pretty nice to work with. It's still expensive, though. Probably just as much as hardwood.
I also decided not to put flooring under the gas stove. Don't really want to deal with disconnecting the gas. I will get one plank under the front feet, though.
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It's starting to look like a kitchen. My dad came over and helped me hang the uppers this morning. Melamine boxes screwed together with a painted MDF panel that's glued into a groove. The three boxes are under the soffit I reduced in height. Need to work on face frames next.
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