Need Advice For Shed Repair

[cabinetman]

I built a shed after Wilma, it's 10' wide, 12' long. I stick built it with 2x4's, 16" O/C. I used ⅝" T-1-11, grooved 4" O/C, stapled in place with 1½" narrow crown staples.

So, in 7 years the bottoms of the siding have rotted. My first thought was to run a skil saw horizontally and fit in new siding with a "Z" type flashing. But, after thinking about it, I decided that it would not be the best fix. My thoughts are to use 5/16" Hardiboard (cement board) instead. I would remove all the siding to do the refurbishing. From the specs it's supposed to be fairly impervious to exterior conditions.

Here are my questions:

1. I haven't used Hardiboard. Is Hardiboard the best material to use?

2. What is the best way to cut it?

3. Can it be stapled in place, or does it HAVE to be screwed on?

4. What's the best way to cap the vertical corners (where one side meets the other).

5. Are the long edges square to the sheet, or are they stepped to fit, like the T-1-11 is?

6. If the long edges are square, is using an exterior caulk to the mating edges recommended, or is there a "T" moulding that is used.

7. I plan to do one side at a time, and I'll likely need 11-12 sheets. What's the best way to store the sheets until they get used...(on edge or flat).

Thanks for any help. Below are pictures of what I'm starting with:
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[Mr__Bill]

My experience has been that Hardiboard needs to be a siding and not the only sheeting on the building. Granted I don't have a lot of experience with the sheets but have used the planks to reside a house and you have to be carefull to not break them. I think staples would pull through easily. I installed with roofing nails (coil nailer) and they need to be tight but not recessed, if the head of the nail is flush with the board it can pull through, the under side of the head needs to be flush and not the top, so I think staples would not hold well.

Calking, recommended is the polyurethane type I used Vulcan (sp) it's more expensive but sticks well and seems to hold up. All the vertical joints that I have seen are calked.

Hardi has a great web site with application info, you may get some ideas from them.

The T-1-11 would last longer if the bottom had been treated with a wood preservative or oil based primer before installing, front back and bottom edge. I don't think the manufacturer tells you that though.

I like the Hardi product. It takes paint well and doesn't rot, but to me it's not a structural material.

Bill, on the left coast
that's my opinion and i'll stick with it until i change my mind

[toolguy1000]

i cut out the rotted part of a friend's shed's sheathing all the way around and replaced the removed sheathing with primed 1x8 bevelled to mate with the complementing bevel of the rotted siding i removed. caulked the joint where the siding met the 1x and it looks like it did 4 years ago. and water running down the siding runs down the bevelled top (about 10-15*)of the 1x adn onto th eground. shed site about 8 " off the ground. even looks better than the plain siding bottom i replaced.

[pelligrini]

If just the bottom of the existing siding is rotting, why do you think it is better to replace the entire siding? Future bug proofing? A more cost effective solution would be to replace the lower portions with cementuous siding, using a Z flashing you mentioned. You could probably replace the bottom 16" of the shed with two panels.

Hardie makes a cementuous board that looks a lot like T1-11. The last time I looked, the hardiepanels don't have the lips like T1-11 does along the edges. They might make some panels like that now. We just butted them together and caulked the small gap. I would have liked to use battens, but it wouldn't have worked well with the parapet cap flashings.

I haven't worked with it, but we've used it on the inside faces of parapets on several condos we've built. They recommend nails, and say 'Do not staple'. Make sure you don't overdrive the nails, as any overdriven fastener needs to be caulked over.

Check out Hardie's installation sheets, http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/insta...panel-hz10.pdf

Scoring and snapping works a lot better than cutting. The first carpenter we used wanted to saw it, what a dusty mess. I think the job superintendent took his saws away 'till he was done with the parapets.

[pelligrini]

4. What's the best way to cap the vertical corners (where one side meets the other).

I like triming the corners with 1x4s, like you did the first time. When I replaced the corners on my shed I used a lock miter bit to join them. Mostly to get used to the lock miter bit I just got. Those corners lasted a lot better then the one I left as just a butt joint.

[JimD]

I've never worked with this material so I probably shouldn't comment. What I've read suggested shears are the best way to cut this material. You can buy motorized shears that look a bit like a drill but operate like sissors. You can use an abrassive blade in a grinder or circular saw but then you have dust to deal with. It is also dust you shouldn't breathe. It is viewed as a high end siding around here. Developments that do not allow vinyl allow hardiplank.

You could also put up waferboard and vinyl siding. Or maybe put up some hardeplank at the bottom because it will not rot and would be more insect resistant.

Jim

[dbhost]

Okay I have done one shed with Hardipanel, as well as helped a friend reside his house. Mine needs to be done too...

1. I haven't used Hardiboard. Is Hardiboard the best material to use?

Hardipanel is rot proof, fire proof, or at least nearly so, wind resistant, and somewhat ressitant to impact as long as it is backed up with something. Your best bet is to back it up with some 7/16 OSB, primed. Get a 5 gallon bucket of primer. OSB drinks the stuff.

2. What is the best way to cut it?

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Outside, with a circular saw and Hardiblade. Most blade MFGs sell one. I have a Diablo Hardiblade for my saw. You WILL want to wear a respirator. This stuff puts up a concrete dust storm like you've never seen... It's nasty.

3. Can it be stapled in place, or does it HAVE to be screwed on?

Cement fiber products will laugh hysterically at staples as they bounce off. Pneumatically nailed is how I have done my installs.

4. What's the best way to cap the vertical corners (where one side meets the other).

They sell Hardi Trim, however the only size I have seen is 1x4, and I like to use 1x2. I ripped my trim with the circ saw, and an edge guide. Works great. Again huge dust storm.

5. Are the long edges square to the sheet, or are they stepped to fit, like the T-1-11 is?

Assuming you are talking about the Hardipanel stuff that looks like T1-11, they are stepped like T1-11 but will NOT fit T1-11 due to the difference in material thickness.

6. If the long edges are square, is using an exterior caulk to the mating edges recommended, or is there a "T" moulding that is used.

I have always heard to use exterior grade silicone caulk with cement fiberboard and not latex. Not sure why.

7. I plan to do one side at a time, and I'll likely need 11-12 sheets. What's the best way to store the sheets until they get used...(on edge or flat).

Flat. The edges are fracture prone if unsupported.

[BigguyZ]

I'd really reccomend going to the website and downloading the instructions. None of what's said here matters, regardless of how good the information is (IMHO). What matters is the manufacture's instructions.


That said, you want to nail it, as others noted. As far as edges go between planks, it's reccomended you at least caulk, but the best sollution is to use some flashing behind each joint. You can make some easily by cutting strips from a roll of aluminum. It's also easy enough to cut. For the corners, I'd personally use PVC- as that stuff will never rot or hold water- as noted previously, using more than just a but joint to hold them together will prevent them from separating. If you don't use PVC, then Hardi makes trim, or use either treated lumber or cedar.

[Dal300]

Looking at your building, I'm not sure you are going to cure the problem with Hardi-Panel.

It looks like the pad is at or below grade and that the t1-11 was wicking up from the ground. I believe you'll find you are going to find rot in your sill plate.

The Sill plate HAS to be above grade, ( I would cut a 1 1/2" lap out of 2X6 joists to fit flush with the plate), putting the joists on concrete pavers so there is air under the building.

As noted above, if you want to use Hardi-Panel, it works well, but if you don't get the Sil above grade, the Sill will just draw moisture and rot faster.

If you do decide to raise the building, put a piece of galvanized between the joist or the sill and any concrete to keep insects and moisture away.

You can also go back with T1-11 and it will last 15-20 years if you'll prime/paint it before you hang it and make sure all four edges are sealed.

Good Luck!

I'm in the process of raising our office building right now due to someone not leveling it correctly and floor joists are rotted out or broken where they cut to put in electrical.

[cabinetman]

My experience has been that Hardiboard needs to be a siding and not the only sheeting on the building. Granted I don't have a lot of experience with the sheets but have used the planks to reside a house and you have to be carefull to not break them.

Thanks for the help. It concerns me that the panels will be the only panel spanning the studs. I'm wondering how fragile the panel will be from the inside, if something falls against it, or like getting bumped with the lawnmower on the outside.


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[cabinetman]

i cut out the rotted part of a friend's shed's sheathing all the way around and replaced the removed sheathing with primed 1x8 bevelled to mate with the complementing bevel of the rotted siding i removed. caulked the joint where the siding met the 1x and it looks like it did 4 years ago. and water running down the siding runs down the bevelled top (about 10-15*)of the 1x adn onto th eground. shed site about 8 " off the ground. even looks better than the plain siding bottom i replaced.

Thanks for the idea. I'd rather try a more continuous surface.

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[cabinetman]

If just the bottom of the existing siding is rotting, why do you think it is better to replace the entire siding? Future bug proofing? A more cost effective solution would be to replace the lower portions with cementuous siding, using a Z flashing you mentioned. You could probably replace the bottom 16" of the shed with two panels.

Thanks for the suggestion. If I'm going to go to the trouble, I'd rather have a continuous face top to bottom.

I haven't worked with it, but we've used it on the inside faces of parapets on several condos we've built. They recommend nails, and say 'Do not staple'. Make sure you don't overdrive the nails, as any overdriven fastener needs to be caulked over.

I was hoping to staple it.

Check out Hardie's installation sheets, http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/insta...panel-hz10.pdf

Thanks for the link.

Scoring and snapping works a lot better than cutting. The first carpenter we used wanted to saw it, what a dusty mess. I think the job superintendent took his saws away 'till he was done with the parapets.

Scoring and snapping sounds easier.

I like triming the corners with 1x4s, like you did the first time. When I replaced the corners on my shed I used a lock miter bit to join them. Mostly to get used to the lock miter bit I just got. Those corners lasted a lot better then the one I left as just a butt joint.

I'd like to stay away from wood if possible.

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[cabinetman]

I've never worked with this material so I probably shouldn't comment. What I've read suggested shears are the best way to cut this material. You can buy motorized shears that look a bit like a drill but operate like sissors. You can use an abrassive blade in a grinder or circular saw but then you have dust to deal with. It is also dust you shouldn't breathe. It is viewed as a high end siding around here. Developments that do not allow vinyl allow hardiplank.

You could also put up waferboard and vinyl siding. Or maybe put up some hardeplank at the bottom because it will not rot and would be more insect resistant.

Jim

I figured if it was cement board it would be dusty to cut. I've used it on countertops to install tiles, but wasn't sure if it's the same material. I want to stay away from wood type products, so OSB would be out. Thanks.

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[cabinetman]

Hardipanel is rot proof, fire proof, or at least nearly so, wind resistant, and somewhat ressitant to impact as long as it is backed up with something. Your best bet is to back it up with some 7/16 OSB, primed. Get a 5 gallon bucket of primer. OSB drinks the stuff.

Thanks. I was hoping not to need a back up.

Outside, with a circular saw and Hardiblade. Most blade MFGs sell one. I have a Diablo Hardiblade for my saw. You WILL want to wear a respirator. This stuff puts up a concrete dust storm like you've never seen... It's nasty.

I've cut ½" cement board for mounting tiles, and you're right...lotsa dust.

They sell Hardi Trim, however the only size I have seen is 1x4, and I like to use 1x2. I ripped my trim with the circ saw, and an edge guide. Works great. Again huge dust storm.

I was thinking to use PVC for a door jamb, and if possible for the end caps. I'll settle for cement board for end caps if I have to.

I have always heard to use exterior grade silicone caulk with cement fiberboard and not latex. Not sure why.

I'm going to have to look into that. I've grown to trust Polyseamseal. If a silicone is better, that's the way I'll go.


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[cabinetman]

I'd really reccomend going to the website and downloading the instructions. None of what's said here matters, regardless of how good the information is (IMHO). What matters is the manufacture's instructions.

I plan on doing that. I always appreciate input from those with experience in a product or procedure.

For the corners, I'd personally use PVC- as that stuff will never rot or hold water- as noted previously, using more than just a but joint to hold them together will prevent them from separating. If you don't use PVC, then Hardi makes trim, or use either treated lumber or cedar.

I looked in the box stores and didn't see stock PVC material that looked like 1x4's or 1x6's.

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