Need Advice For Shed Repair

[cabinetman]

Looking at your building, I'm not sure you are going to cure the problem with Hardi-Panel.

It looks like the pad is at or below grade and that the t1-11 was wicking up from the ground. I believe you'll find you are going to find rot in your sill plate.

The Sill plate HAS to be above grade, ( I would cut a 1 1/2" lap out of 2X6 joists to fit flush with the plate), putting the joists on concrete pavers so there is air under the building.

As noted above, if you want to use Hardi-Panel, it works well, but if you don't get the Sil above grade, the Sill will just draw moisture and rot faster.

If you do decide to raise the building, put a piece of galvanized between the joist or the sill and any concrete to keep insects and moisture away.

You can also go back with T1-11 and it will last 15-20 years if you'll prime/paint it before you hang it and make sure all four edges are sealed.

Good Luck!

I'm in the process of raising our office building right now due to someone not leveling it correctly and floor joists are rotted out or broken where they cut to put in electrical.

The foundation is above grade, but may not look like it. It's PT 2x6's on grade, topped with ¾" CDX plywood. The siding finishes off about ¼" below the bottom edge of the plywood.

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[JimD]

It seems like you need something over the studs regardless of what siding you use unless you go back to painted siding. I wouldn't want OSB near the ground either. I once used tile backer board, concrete board, as a siding material on a shed. It was unusual but worked fine. You could run it around the bottom of the shed and move to OSB above it. Or you could use plywood to better match the thickness.

Jim

[conwaygolfer]

I feel that hardiplank is the best siding you can use for any structure. I have applied it to several houses and garages. I use the spiral hardboard nails. Yes they are hand nailed. I doubt you will get a staple thru it. And yes, you will need a backer board. Why not just nail over the siding you presently have? Cut the bottom board a little shorter so water can't get to it. And let the starter row go below the cut you just made.

Most decent lumber yards have the PVC (Azak) material for the corners. Not the big box stores. I am with you as I use polyseamseal for most joints. Another good alternative is "White Lightning". It is an adhesive caulk just like polyseamseal and is acrylic latex. Works as good at half the price. Lowes sells it for about $1.80 per tube. I use so much of it I usually buy it by the case and save even more.

Hope this helps,
Conwaygolfer

[cabinetman]

It seems like you need something over the studs regardless of what siding you use unless you go back to painted siding. I wouldn't want OSB near the ground either. I once used tile backer board, concrete board, as a siding material on a shed. It was unusual but worked fine. You could run it around the bottom of the shed and move to OSB above it. Or you could use plywood to better match the thickness.

Jim

I feel that hardiplank is the best siding you can use for any structure. I have applied it to several houses and garages. I use the spiral hardboard nails. Yes they are hand nailed. I doubt you will get a staple thru it. And yes, you will need a backer board. Why not just nail over the siding you presently have? Cut the bottom board a little shorter so water can't get to it. And let the starter row go below the cut you just made.

Most decent lumber yards have the PVC (Azak) material for the corners. Not the big box stores. I am with you as I use polyseamseal for most joints. Another good alternative is "White Lightning". It is an adhesive caulk just like polyseamseal and is acrylic latex. Works as good at half the price. Lowes sells it for about $1.80 per tube. I use so much of it I usually buy it by the case and save even more.

Hope this helps,
Conwaygolfer

At first I was thinking to take off the existing siding. I didn't want to do a repair where it required cutting off the rotten parts and fitting on new siding. Instead, I can just rough cut off the rotten stuff. Then fasten PT 1x6 or whatever as a ⅝" filler singfor thickness, right at the bottom edge. Then apply the cement board using the T-111, as a backer.

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[pelligrini]

At first I was thinking to take off the existing siding. I didn't want to do a repair where it required cutting off the rotten parts and fitting on new siding. Instead, I can just rough cut off the rotten stuff. Then fasten PT 1x6 or whatever as a ⅝" filler singfor thickness, right at the bottom edge. Then apply the cement board using the T-111, as a backer.

Leaving the existing siding would be a good idea. It'll save some time and effort too.

Instead of PT wood as the backer/repair you might see if a supplier has hardieplank or some synthetic trim. That could be used on the corners too. The non-wood should help on the bottom near grade where water will splash back up off the ground. That's probably the cause of your current rotting.

I cut off the bottom 15" of the T1-11 down one side on my shed a few years ago. I used a PVC Z flashing at the joint and caulked both sides of the flashing. I put a couple coats of some elastomeric paint on the bottom edge of the T1-11 that is exposed and it has held up great. A lot better than a small section on the front that I replaced a few years earlier, but didn't protect. It needs replacing again.

[BigguyZ]

I know my local Menards has PCV boards. I think I've seen HD with them too, but I'd double check.

[cabinetman]

Leaving the existing siding would be a good idea. It'll save some time and effort too.

Instead of PT wood as the backer/repair you might see if a supplier has hardieplank or some synthetic trim. That could be used on the corners too. The non-wood should help on the bottom near grade where water will splash back up off the ground. That's probably the cause of your current rotting.

I cut off the bottom 15" of the T1-11 down one side on my shed a few years ago. I used a PVC Z flashing at the joint and caulked both sides of the flashing. I put a couple coats of some elastomeric paint on the bottom edge of the T1-11 that is exposed and it has held up great. A lot better than a small section on the front that I replaced a few years earlier, but didn't protect. It needs replacing again.

I know my local Menards has PCV boards. I think I've seen HD with them too, but I'd double check.

I would prefer to use something other than wood for the filler at the bottom. I did check the local box stores for PVC boards that could be used. I would need ⅝" thickness to level out to the T-111. I would want something that is also impervious to rodent activity. Maybe I could just double up the Hardiboard.

I was also thinking that the full sheets are about 80 LBS. Since I'd be working alone, I would have to cut it to the correct height, and install it so it is properly positioned. I am disappointed that a staple might not work. If it did, it could be used as a position holder, to further proceed with nails. I couldn't hold a sheet up with one hand and nail with the other. I'm pretty strong, but that would take three hands.

So, I'll configure a ledger of sorts that sits on the ground that I can just set the bottom of the sheet on. That would align the bottom where it has to be. I'm going to experiment with staples on a sample and see what happens.

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[jking]

If you can find either Hardiboard trim or PVC trim, you could install a piece at the bottom. It would trim the bottom plus provide you a ledger to install the new siding.

Does the foundation slab run out past the shed perimeter? How far above exterior grade does the siding start?

[cabinetman]

If you can find either Hardiboard trim or PVC trim, you could install a piece at the bottom. It would trim the bottom plus provide you a ledger to install the new siding.

I would still have to add the filler where I cut out the rotted sections. That total thickness would be 15/16". If I add a trim base (¾"), only ⅛" of the Hardiboard would be riding on it. Maybe not that big of a deal...worth considering.

Does the foundation slab run out past the shed perimeter? How far above exterior grade does the siding start?

The foundation is a 2x6 on edge, on grade. It's topped with ¾" CDX. So, the bottom edge of the siding is above grade by about 5¼".

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[pelligrini]

I would prefer to use something other than wood for the filler at the bottom. I did check the local box stores for PVC boards that could be used. I would need ⅝" thickness to level out to the T-111. I would want something that is also impervious to rodent activity. Maybe I could just double up the Hardiboard.

Check to see of they have hardieplank. It's a 5/16" thick board in 12' lengths and varying widths. http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...nkLapSiding.py

You'll have to deal with the lap joint parts, but it should work for the material you have to replace. I just screwed my ling sawboard to the shed and used it as the guide when cutting off the old siding with my circular saw.