Hard To Start My Mower

[billwmeyer]

I agree and should have stated that. When I pulled the plug from my mower it took away the compression and it turned freely. That is when I discovered I had valve problems. If the starter doesn't really whip over the motor fast, it is probably the starter, which is the more likely problem anyway.

Bill

[crokett]

I took the battery into Batteries Plus intending to get a new one. Talked to the guy there. He said it sounded like the battery was bad but tested mine under load and said it was a good battery. I said you coulda told me it was bad and made a sale. He said yes, but I'd rather get your next two sales because of goodwill rather than this one and you not ever come back after the new one doesn't work either.

So...... trying to rule out the starter. I am going to change the spark plug anyway. Assuming when I have it out the engine turns over, does that rule out the starter, since there is no compression, or could I just have a weak starter. Or is there a way to use the multimeter to test the starter?

[pelligrini]

With the plug out, if it cranks very well (better than what you can remember as normal) the starter is probably OK.

There is a way to test the loads on a starter. I vaguely remember how to test a GM starter. I think I just read the amps off the positive lead. It's been a long while since I did that. I usually just take mine into the autoparts store and let them put it on their bench tester.

[phi1l]

OK ... its well into March now ... snow is gone, I can think about lawn mowers...


Are you sure you are getting good contact between the battery terminals & the battery cables? That's the first thing I always check. Also, I am assuming the battery you have has enough cranking power for you mower. Those are the first 2 things that come to mind if the battery is good.

I would first try cleaning the battery terminals & the battery cable connectors.

[crokett]

Put a new battery in it. It still isn't starting. The situation is somewhat improved but still not starting. At the battery while trying to start voltage only drops to 9.3 so I think the old battery was definitely not optimal. Now you crank it and it tries to turn then almost makes it. If you shut the ignition off and try again it turns over once, then gets stuck again. Looking at the screen on top it is getting stuck at ~ the same point in each cycle. I am going to pull the plug tomorrow, want to change it anyway and with it out will try it. If it it turns over ok I will do the valve job.

If it matters, I tested the ground path of starter case back to neg terminal on battery. I get 0 volts. I assume that means the ground is good and it prefers that path than running through my tester.

[pelligrini]

Check the positive lead and the ground lead to the chassis too, especially the connections.

I had a tough time with my Camaro once with a poor battery connection. The radio would work, lights, etc. As soon as I started cranking everything would go dead, a couple minutes later everything would work, crank, dead again. I finally tracked it down to a corroded connector in a splice that broke off power for the stereo that someone put in. That was after changing the ignition switch, battery, etc.

[phi1l]

If it matters, I tested the ground path of starter case back to neg terminal on battery. I get 0 volts. I assume that means the ground is good and it prefers that path than running through my tester.

Not necessarily, if you have a connection with high contact resistance somewhere, voltages will seem normal under no load, but when you put a load on the battery you will not get enough current to get job done. Voltage at the battery will be up, but under a load the voltage at the starter drop. or if the problem is on the ground side, voltage will be high on the ground side of the starter.

[crokett]

Ok, it wasn't the battery. Biggest battery Auto Zone had (340CCA) and same problem. I jumped it off the car. I got the mower started. Now it runs very rough and only for a few seconds. Then it quits. There is a ton of black smoke (burning oil I would guess) and oil also is aspirating out of the exhaust unless there is a blown gasket somewhere or something. Is it worth fixing, or look for a new engine or mower?

[cabinetman]

I can jump it from a car and it runs ok once it is started but it is like the battery isn't putting out enough power to get it to turn over.

Anyway, what to check and how?

Your first post states it was hard to start but ran OK once it started.

I got the mower started. Now it runs very rough and only for a few seconds. Then it quits. There is a ton of black smoke (burning oil I would guess) and oil also is aspirating out of the exhaust unless there is a blown gasket somewhere or something. Is it worth fixing, or look for a new engine or mower?

Then it runs rough and smokes. Sounds like a finicky motor that can't make up its mind. Cheap enough to rebuild the motor. Maybe just a bad gasket.
.

[phi1l]

My first guess would be a gunky carburetor....

[crokett]

Your first post states it was hard to start but ran OK once it started.

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It did, last fall, which was the last time we ran it. Now it smokes, only runs for a few seconds and blows oil out of the exhaust. Or at least I think it is oil.

[phi1l]

Sounds like the choke might be stuck closed...

[cabinetman]

It did, last fall, which was the last time we ran it. Now it smokes, only runs for a few seconds and blows oil out of the exhaust. Or at least I think it is oil.

It could be just a stuck choke.
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[crokett]

It could be just a stuck choke.
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Seriously? Even with it aspirating oil? It could be unburned gas too, for all I know. I will check the choke. For darn sure I am tired of screwing around with it.

[cabinetman]

Seriously? Even with it aspirating oil? It could be unburned gas too, for all I know. I will check the choke. For darn sure I am tired of screwing around with it.

Maybe time for a new one.
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