Our washer just drains right into the sink. No special plumbing needed.
I will bring the picture to my city inspector and ask them.
I suppose this is an option, too. Drop the height of the waste pipe and tie
in from the new sink to the pipe. Using the existing P-trap as the P-trap of the sink. Then drape the washer drain into the sink. What do you think?
I will still talk to the inspector, though, because I'm curious what I can do.
This is how my washer is setup too (draining into the sink), which was based on how it was done at my parents (which doesn't make it right, but it does mean I've seen it work without a problem for 30+ years).
With a large enough sink, or a high-efficiency washer even if the sink is blocked (or your spouse leaves the plug in after hand washing something) it doesn't overflow, at least not until you dunk your meaty arm in to pull the plug that wasn't on a chain - DAMHIKT.
I was being a good boy and went to the City code office this morning. It
turns out the City doesn't do plumbing permits. It's handled by the local
water commission. Their office is more than 1/2 hour away! Anyway, I think
I'm going to fly under the radar on this one and use my best judgement.
I was being a good boy and went to the City code office this morning. It
turns out the City doesn't do plumbing permits. It's handled by the local
water commission. Their office is more than 1/2 hour away! Anyway, I think
I'm going to fly under the radar on this one and use my best judgement.
Paul
At least you get to live in oxymoronland.
I wouldn't (shhhh, didn't) pull a permit to put in a utility sink either
I was bad and finished my whole basement with no permit including putting in a utility and kitchen sink in addition to the bathroom. I have several books on building your own house so I just consulted them for rules.
I paid the plumber who plumbed my house to give me drains in the basement for the bathroom. He put them in the wrong place, however, except for the toilet which he did not vent (so I had to fix it too). I rented a jack-hammer, electric, for a day and moved the plumbing. Learning to use a jackhammer was not a ton of fun (hint, leave the rubble in the hole as long as possible) but otherwise this was not so bad. I ran off the main stack to where I wanted the utility and kitchen sinks at the same time. Getting the concrete out of the way took a day, then there was making up the new plumbing, then putting concrete back over the trenches.
In your case, I would probably make a small hole in the floor and run a drain to where the sink will be. I would check a book but I also think the vent looks big enough you could use the washer vent for the sink. With a jack hammer, it would only take an hour or two to get concrete out of the way and then a few minutes to cut and glue plastic for the drain. Then a bag or two of pre-mix and you would be done.
You can TEE your drain into the vent stack as you need to have a P-trap on your utility sink. The vent will not be obstructed as you will have separate P-traps for your washer and your sink hence no wet vent. But I would still check with your local building/plumbing inspector.
You should easily be able to tap into that drain pipe with the proper TEE. Since there is already a P-trap at the bottom of the existing drain pipe, an additional P-trap under the sink would be unnecessary.
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